The BA-3 as preamp build guide

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myleftear,

If you want to use the VRDN for +/-24V without the de-noiser you can leave
out all the parts after the J3 and J4 jumpers. Also you need to make small
adjustments to the LM317/337 programming resistors since the values in the
VRDN schematics limit things to about +/-20V. (For example, increasing
R7 and R10 in the VRDN schematics here
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/att...level-ckts-11v-20v-1-5a-de-noiser-figure1-png )

Please see https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317.pdf, section 9 for more details.
 
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increasing R7 and R10 in the VRDN schematics.



220R from OUT to ADJ, 4K from ADJ to GND.



Hi guys
Did I get it right this time?
Thank you!

PS: Is the denoiser restricted to 20 V too, so that it wouldn’t work on 24V (or not without further tweaks)?
There‘s a already populated VRDN laying around, which I could use (even though it’s blue :) ), and since the denoiser can be just disabled by that bridge...
 
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You're interested in the resistance from the ADJ pin to ground. In this case,
this means the group R7/R8/VR1 (for the LM317) and
R10/R9/VR2 (for the LM337) As Jim wrote, when these groups are at 4K,
you have about +/-24V. How you achieve that is up to you, but changing
R7 and R10 to 4K will give you a min voltage of about +/-24V.

If you use 2.5K for R7 and R10 you should be able to adjust from
about +/-15.5V to +/-25V

You still need to set the J3 and J4 jumpers.
 
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How can it hurt, other than economically? You test 50 parts, and pick out the four best-matched pairs. Then you discard (recycling preferred!) the other 42 parts. Assuredly your parts cost has increased by a factor of (50/8) = 6.25X. Test cost is zero because testing is enjoyable hobby-behavior; and hobby-behavior has zero cost, instead it has nonzero benefit.

But has the exercise done anything bad, electrically?
 
Here's the story:
I had the occasion to melt a little bit of solder, so I started to source parts for the BA-3. (My next excuse not to start my F4 which scares me don't know why...)
Stumbled on those PRP-resistors...
Hei, red resistors on a red PCB!
Checked the available values, which seem to be "strange" (there's a name for certain groups of values), some don't fit the BOM.
Piggybacking 2 resistors could be an option to come close.

But that's just stupid, I won't do it...

Finally, here's the question:

The BOM requires 10r, PRP has 11r... that's a 10% deviation. Would this work?

I second 6L6. Build the f4. My first ever soldering project and my favorite amp (vs many much more expensive commercial offerings).