BA-3 as a standalone preamp.
I was thinking about that last night after I posted. My first thought was to use a very large chassis like the U5. And have the preamp integrated with the amplifiers and just change out put boards moving up from the Alpha J into the F series as a built different model output boards. Now waking up the next morning think it would be more economical for now if I built the BA-3 As a standalone preamp.
I could always build the different amplifiers on their own chassis and swap the BA-3 between the different amplifiers when needed And later build separate component preamplifiers and mix-and-match to my ears desire .
Are any of the components like transistors almost unattainable at this time or still easy to source. Or is there a easy obtainable transistors as substitutes but maybe some values of other components need to be change if substitution was used since this thread was started in 2014.
One other question came to mind since I my ACA has balanced Is there a balanced input output version of the BA-3 ?
I was thinking about that last night after I posted. My first thought was to use a very large chassis like the U5. And have the preamp integrated with the amplifiers and just change out put boards moving up from the Alpha J into the F series as a built different model output boards. Now waking up the next morning think it would be more economical for now if I built the BA-3 As a standalone preamp.
I could always build the different amplifiers on their own chassis and swap the BA-3 between the different amplifiers when needed And later build separate component preamplifiers and mix-and-match to my ears desire .
Are any of the components like transistors almost unattainable at this time or still easy to source. Or is there a easy obtainable transistors as substitutes but maybe some values of other components need to be change if substitution was used since this thread was started in 2014.
One other question came to mind since I my ACA has balanced Is there a balanced input output version of the BA-3 ?
ok I think I figure out the obsolete problem with the unobtainium 2SK170 and 2SJ74 reading more untill my eyes blurrreeddd I found this Replacement For Toshiba 2SK170/2SJ74
Replacement For Toshiba 2SK170/2SJ74
PLEASE USE THESE DEVICES
that the below links are for drop in replacements ?
Linear Systems LSK170 Ultra Low Noise Single N-Channel JFET (8 Pieces) – diyAudio Store
Linear Systems LSJ74 Ultra Low Noise Single P-Channel JFET (8 Pieces) – diyAudio Store
If so I see in DIYstore they have packs of 8 for sale. but I do not know what grade to purchase A: B: C: or D
I have read so much only late at night until falling asleep at the computer I do not remember what I read the night before.
but what about the 2SJ313
I Google this can any one suggest what may be real not fake
2SJ313 - Google Search
This is what Google found for 2SK2013 but again I do not know what real looks like.
2SK2013 - Google Search
I am ording all the resistors, caps, and other small stuff from Mouser to night.
The BA-3 PCB and Supper Regulator, V2.3b PCB designed by Jan Didden based on the Jung/Didden regulator from Audio Amateur at the DIYstore
Replacement For Toshiba 2SK170/2SJ74
PLEASE USE THESE DEVICES
that the below links are for drop in replacements ?
Linear Systems LSK170 Ultra Low Noise Single N-Channel JFET (8 Pieces) – diyAudio Store
Linear Systems LSJ74 Ultra Low Noise Single P-Channel JFET (8 Pieces) – diyAudio Store
If so I see in DIYstore they have packs of 8 for sale. but I do not know what grade to purchase A: B: C: or D
I have read so much only late at night until falling asleep at the computer I do not remember what I read the night before.
but what about the 2SJ313
I Google this can any one suggest what may be real not fake
2SJ313 - Google Search
This is what Google found for 2SK2013 but again I do not know what real looks like.
2SK2013 - Google Search
I am ording all the resistors, caps, and other small stuff from Mouser to night.
The BA-3 PCB and Supper Regulator, V2.3b PCB designed by Jan Didden based on the Jung/Didden regulator from Audio Amateur at the DIYstore
Use LSK B grade and Fairchild mosfets. The use of Fairchild mosfets instead of toshiba is outlined in the article (the are a drop in replacement but the value of one pot needs to change).
Can you provide me a link to read on how to match
And possibly some YouTube video links if you know of any
I have a oscilloscope , voltmeters and signal generators. Is that enough . But I’m probably pretty sure I have a better chance if I have 50 or 100 transistors to match instead of eight that are sold in a single package in the DIY store ?
Nelson Pass has described in details how he match fets. I think it was one or two months ago but I can't remember which thread it was…….
Else there is the trick with a 9V battery and a A-meter.
This could also be a solution:
http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n330/yumyum11111/b1BufferImg05.png
It also depends on how many parameters you what to match?
Else there is the trick with a 9V battery and a A-meter.
This could also be a solution:
http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n330/yumyum11111/b1BufferImg05.png
It also depends on how many parameters you what to match?
Thanks to you all another BA3 pre comes to life. I havent posted in quite some time but I've been following DIY Audio and particularly the Pass Labs forum and slowly but surely some of this is sinking in...
Thank you Mr. Pass, those of you who selflessly share your knowledge and experience and those who ask all of the questions before I need to. I'm amazed by the depth here.
So, anyway, I've had this board populated for a couple of years and just got around to putting a power supply together and getting on with it.
This build uses the fqp parts, 1k pots and the silmic 10uf caps. I may play with bypassing the silmic and later trying an MKP-fC 10uf but I'm plenty happy for now. I've been playing with a couple F5 channels so the biasing setup was familiar and painless. An Antek 0222 transformer pushes a homespun 317/337 supply outputting 25v. The regs run cooler than anticipated as do the qfets. Of course my shop is sitting at about 60deg F...
Now on to some casework and finishing the F5.
Cheers y'all
.7
Thank you Mr. Pass, those of you who selflessly share your knowledge and experience and those who ask all of the questions before I need to. I'm amazed by the depth here.
So, anyway, I've had this board populated for a couple of years and just got around to putting a power supply together and getting on with it.
This build uses the fqp parts, 1k pots and the silmic 10uf caps. I may play with bypassing the silmic and later trying an MKP-fC 10uf but I'm plenty happy for now. I've been playing with a couple F5 channels so the biasing setup was familiar and painless. An Antek 0222 transformer pushes a homespun 317/337 supply outputting 25v. The regs run cooler than anticipated as do the qfets. Of course my shop is sitting at about 60deg F...
Now on to some casework and finishing the F5.
Cheers y'all
.7
Last edited:
I think I made a mistake misunderstanding of the Super Reg
I believe I made a mistake looking back at the beginning of this thread at the photos was not the linear superregulator by Jan Didden. I guess I was not supposed to break the boards in half, though not crucial.
Got a little confused looking at the photo of one singular power board in the build guide on the first page . So without remembering what I read in between the photos that the board in the photos was another manufacture.
My question I did order one of the eBay attenuators because I just could not right now stomach the expense of the (Goldpoint). The photo attached is this the correct attenuator ?.
Another question for the power switch I noticed on the Goldpoint brand switch two small ceramic capacitors I must believe these are to stop possibly some pops or click when switching the power ?. If I was to choose a cheaper switch what size capacitors can I add to it for the same level of protection?.
I believe I made a mistake looking back at the beginning of this thread at the photos was not the linear superregulator by Jan Didden. I guess I was not supposed to break the boards in half, though not crucial.
Got a little confused looking at the photo of one singular power board in the build guide on the first page . So without remembering what I read in between the photos that the board in the photos was another manufacture.
My question I did order one of the eBay attenuators because I just could not right now stomach the expense of the (Goldpoint). The photo attached is this the correct attenuator ?.
Another question for the power switch I noticed on the Goldpoint brand switch two small ceramic capacitors I must believe these are to stop possibly some pops or click when switching the power ?. If I was to choose a cheaper switch what size capacitors can I add to it for the same level of protection?.
Attachments
Why not use same switch as 6L6uses for AC. New AC Selector Switch it has everything you need.
The cap across the switch is to keep the contacts from arcing when switching and eventually burning out. It's entirely optional but if you use one consider one rated for mains duty.
The attenuator is correct, but you don't show the value in your screenshot. Should be 10-50K, 25K probably preferable.
The attenuator is correct, but you don't show the value in your screenshot. Should be 10-50K, 25K probably preferable.
Opps, the SuperReg PSU needs A separate DC Supply ? Ouch!!!
Getting closer but ran into one small obstacle to overcome, other than waiting for the unobtainium fets to come into stock at DIY store.
On the first page of this thread just under the schematic. First paragraph stating the use of a “317\337 linear regulator power supply from Tubecad.com (Model PS-12)”.
Then make a note that you can use the super regulator in the DIY audio store and I took this route because I only wanted to make as few orders with as few companies as possible.
Now that I have all my parts and started populating I just noticed on the super regulator boards it says (DC in) !!!. Jumping back to the first page I took a closer detailed look at the glassware power supply noticed it had diode‘s for rectifying on the same board.
The super regulators do not. Since I want to stay with a somewhat clean professional look instead of me making up a tiny full bridge rectifier Out of perff board. Can somebody recommend me a premade circuit board to give me the correct reference DC V to the superReg boards.
Now I see why you would choose the glassware all in one solution easier and much cheaper.
Getting closer but ran into one small obstacle to overcome, other than waiting for the unobtainium fets to come into stock at DIY store.
On the first page of this thread just under the schematic. First paragraph stating the use of a “317\337 linear regulator power supply from Tubecad.com (Model PS-12)”.
Then make a note that you can use the super regulator in the DIY audio store and I took this route because I only wanted to make as few orders with as few companies as possible.
Now that I have all my parts and started populating I just noticed on the super regulator boards it says (DC in) !!!. Jumping back to the first page I took a closer detailed look at the glassware power supply noticed it had diode‘s for rectifying on the same board.
The super regulators do not. Since I want to stay with a somewhat clean professional look instead of me making up a tiny full bridge rectifier Out of perff board. Can somebody recommend me a premade circuit board to give me the correct reference DC V to the superReg boards.
Now I see why you would choose the glassware all in one solution easier and much cheaper.
Attachments
This will work nicely -
Rectifier Filter Power Supply Board Amplifier Dual Power PCB Bare Board | eBay
Rectifier Filter Power Supply Board Amplifier Dual Power PCB Bare Board | eBay
new ba3 preamp build
Hi,
I am putting together a power supply for my new ba3-preamplifier build.
I am going to use a 50VA 2X24V toroid with a LM317 LM337 (Velleman Kits K8042) regulator, will it do the job?
Velleman Kits K8042: SYMMETRIC 1A POWER SUPPLY – Velleman – Wholesaler and developer of electronics
I was thinking of upgrading to Salas Ultrabib in the future when it is back in stock.
I am trying to cut costs on the transformer, I was thinking about this one:
TTSA0050 - Transformer AUDIO TSA50VA - voltage to 50V - Shop Toroidy.pl
But mouser also has this Triad one, and much cheaper:
VPT48-1040 Triad Magnetics | Mouser Belgique
Will there be an audible difference between the two?
For a big toroid, a cheap one would likely hum, but for a small one I suppose there is less risk for hum when going with a cheaper one.
Pieter
Hi,
I am putting together a power supply for my new ba3-preamplifier build.
I am going to use a 50VA 2X24V toroid with a LM317 LM337 (Velleman Kits K8042) regulator, will it do the job?
Velleman Kits K8042: SYMMETRIC 1A POWER SUPPLY – Velleman – Wholesaler and developer of electronics
I was thinking of upgrading to Salas Ultrabib in the future when it is back in stock.
I am trying to cut costs on the transformer, I was thinking about this one:
TTSA0050 - Transformer AUDIO TSA50VA - voltage to 50V - Shop Toroidy.pl
But mouser also has this Triad one, and much cheaper:
VPT48-1040 Triad Magnetics | Mouser Belgique
Will there be an audible difference between the two?
For a big toroid, a cheap one would likely hum, but for a small one I suppose there is less risk for hum when going with a cheaper one.
Pieter
with proper reg, you'll not hear difference between various decent xformers , excluding differences due to physical place in chassis and existence of static and magnetic shields
choose your xformer by planned load (present or future) , and let it be at least 3-times more powerful than load (in Watts)
btw. it's always good to look for local manufacturers , where you can likely get custom wound ones , with both magnetic and static shield - for same or slightly higher price than for generic ones, sold in big stores
choose your xformer by planned load (present or future) , and let it be at least 3-times more powerful than load (in Watts)
btw. it's always good to look for local manufacturers , where you can likely get custom wound ones , with both magnetic and static shield - for same or slightly higher price than for generic ones, sold in big stores