Both the TKD and the GoldPoint are excellent attenuators. I can detect no audible differences between the two. The biggest differences are the precision stepped increments of the GoldPoint vs. the infinite adjustability of the TKD. The TKD is also silky smooth and superior in feel and channel matching compared to the common ALPS.
Hi Dake13
Repeat your order.
Decide soon whether you are going to build a
Pass B1 or a Shanghai B1.
If its a Pass B1 then it will be a life long investment.
Whereas a Shanghai B1 will end up in the junk in a couple of months.
See the amount of new responses in this thread which was dormant a month ago.
This is the time to build and kill the time before the time kills us.
Repeat your order.
Decide soon whether you are going to build a
Pass B1 or a Shanghai B1.
If its a Pass B1 then it will be a life long investment.
Whereas a Shanghai B1 will end up in the junk in a couple of months.
See the amount of new responses in this thread which was dormant a month ago.
This is the time to build and kill the time before the time kills us.
Last time I checked, PassDIY.com included 2 pairs of matched genuine Toshiba 2SK170 BL and the pcb, all for $40 bucks. While the Linear Systems' LSK are a quality product, the Toshibas are the real deal.
I couldn't agree more! When you buy Chinese fakes they get your money and you get absolutely no support from them when they fail.
PassDIY gives you the real deal almost for free!
Mine had the cute 2sk370.
It looks like Dake13 was only asking what LSK's to order from the diyaudio store
as replacement for his lost jfets from passdiy.
However, given the minimal diff in cost between the LSK replacement and another
set from passdiy, I personally would also order another set. After all, it doesn't
hurts to have a spare PCB (which is of very high quality) and you never know
when your jfets will reappear.
It looks like Dake13 was only asking what LSK's to order from the diyaudio store
as replacement for his lost jfets from passdiy.
However, given the minimal diff in cost between the LSK replacement and another
set from passdiy, I personally would also order another set. After all, it doesn't
hurts to have a spare PCB (which is of very high quality) and you never know
when your jfets will reappear.
This was one of my first few posts to this forum and I was thoroughly confused, but I just figured out the problem thanks to Dennis.
I ordered the B1 pcb and JFETs from passdiy quite a while ago. But I thought I must have ordered from the diyaudio store, and the board/JFETs were no longer available. So now that it seems I've lost or misplaced the JFETs, I believed the ones in the diyaudio store were the only option.
I infer from comments that the matched JFETs from passdiy are a better option? I will email Sherilyn and see what she says, but I'm happy to order a new board as well, if necessary.
Sorry for the confusion here,looking forward to starting in on the B1 in a couple of days. I am really enjoying the Amp Camp amp, very nice.
I ordered the B1 pcb and JFETs from passdiy quite a while ago. But I thought I must have ordered from the diyaudio store, and the board/JFETs were no longer available. So now that it seems I've lost or misplaced the JFETs, I believed the ones in the diyaudio store were the only option.
I infer from comments that the matched JFETs from passdiy are a better option? I will email Sherilyn and see what she says, but I'm happy to order a new board as well, if necessary.
Sorry for the confusion here,looking forward to starting in on the B1 in a couple of days. I am really enjoying the Amp Camp amp, very nice.
When you refer to a "Shanghai B1," are you referring to someone using clone boards, ripping off NP's generous work, or are you only referring to the JFETs?
(Anyway I ordered another B1 pcb/JFET set from passdiy, so problem solved. I'm sure my lost JFETs will appear any day now...)
Dake your lost jfets will surface one fine day specially when you are looking for something else!
Whether they are LSK170 B grade or 2SK170BL or 2SK370BL it is okay.
What matters is the BL grade because you need 6 to 10 ma of Idss current for the B1 to output decent sound.(remember not to mix the matched pairs)
The 2SK170's you get from Shanghai are all below 6ma GR grades.
Not worth using them as the magic will be missing.
Whether they are LSK170 B grade or 2SK170BL or 2SK370BL it is okay.
What matters is the BL grade because you need 6 to 10 ma of Idss current for the B1 to output decent sound.(remember not to mix the matched pairs)
The 2SK170's you get from Shanghai are all below 6ma GR grades.
Not worth using them as the magic will be missing.
For me, misplaced items typically reappear within a week or so of reordering.
When you consider that PassDIY was charging $30.00 for just the pcb when it was available, you are getting genuine matched Toshiba JFETs for $2.50 each! I haven't seen a deal this crazy since Crazy Eddie disappeared.
Oh Boy. I was warned by friends of mine that some of these DIY Audio Forums get very "passionate' in the Reply's.
1. I used a 20kΩ Linear Pot by mistake
2. I will replace the 20kΩ Linear Pot with a 50kΩ Audio or Logarithmic Pot and see if this helps
3. I understand that this is Buffer for impedance matching with various Amps/Preamps. The Pot is not a real Volume Control as it's simply in series with the input signal (thus varying the impedance applied to the rest of the active circuit)
4. China or America, the boards are of the same quality builds (copper poured/flooded throughout).
5. This was an experiment to see if it would work based on very low impedance Volume Bypassed Analog Balanced Outputs of my Sony Sony STR-DN1080 (the true balanced signals are tapped of of the Upper HDMI Video Board and XLR terminated)
6. The Audio signals are very "loud" and ran fine when fed into a PS Audio Stellar Gain Cell DAC/Preamp. A little gain on the SGCD went a long way when adjusting the Volume
7. I no longer have the SGCD and the left & right channels no longer are connected to anything (I traded it into PS Audio towards a DirectStream Sr. DAC)
8. The parts I used were leftover from my previous Bose Series EQ rebuilds
9. SMT 1%. 1/8W Vishay was used in place of throughhole. Transistors are mount on the back of the PCB for ease of replacement/gain matching.
So why are you Guys getting so worked up.
Here's the part no's for the cheap Pots I bought instead of Bourns Alps that I normally used but could not find in a Dual Ganged version.
Mouser #: 652-PTD904-1015PB203
Mfr. #: PTD904-1015P-B203
Desc.: Potentiometers 20K LINEAR
Mouser #: 652-PTD9042015KC503
Mfr. #: PTD904-2015K-C503
Desc.: Potentiometers PANEL CONTROL 9MM-ST-CARBON
1. I used a 20kΩ Linear Pot by mistake
2. I will replace the 20kΩ Linear Pot with a 50kΩ Audio or Logarithmic Pot and see if this helps
3. I understand that this is Buffer for impedance matching with various Amps/Preamps. The Pot is not a real Volume Control as it's simply in series with the input signal (thus varying the impedance applied to the rest of the active circuit)
4. China or America, the boards are of the same quality builds (copper poured/flooded throughout).
5. This was an experiment to see if it would work based on very low impedance Volume Bypassed Analog Balanced Outputs of my Sony Sony STR-DN1080 (the true balanced signals are tapped of of the Upper HDMI Video Board and XLR terminated)
6. The Audio signals are very "loud" and ran fine when fed into a PS Audio Stellar Gain Cell DAC/Preamp. A little gain on the SGCD went a long way when adjusting the Volume
7. I no longer have the SGCD and the left & right channels no longer are connected to anything (I traded it into PS Audio towards a DirectStream Sr. DAC)
8. The parts I used were leftover from my previous Bose Series EQ rebuilds
9. SMT 1%. 1/8W Vishay was used in place of throughhole. Transistors are mount on the back of the PCB for ease of replacement/gain matching.
So why are you Guys getting so worked up.
Here's the part no's for the cheap Pots I bought instead of Bourns Alps that I normally used but could not find in a Dual Ganged version.
Mouser #: 652-PTD904-1015PB203
Mfr. #: PTD904-1015P-B203
Desc.: Potentiometers 20K LINEAR
Mouser #: 652-PTD9042015KC503
Mfr. #: PTD904-2015K-C503
Desc.: Potentiometers PANEL CONTROL 9MM-ST-CARBON
Last edited:
Rajugsw,
ESP - A Better Volume Control
Read the above link where he explains how you could make a
BETTER VOLUME CONTROL by connecting a 2k resistor across the output of your 20k linear pot.
This would be better than the 50k log pot you plan to use there.
The pot at the input limits the amount of signal fed into the buffer
which does the impedance matching thereafter.
John.
ESP - A Better Volume Control
Read the above link where he explains how you could make a
BETTER VOLUME CONTROL by connecting a 2k resistor across the output of your 20k linear pot.
This would be better than the 50k log pot you plan to use there.
The pot at the input limits the amount of signal fed into the buffer
which does the impedance matching thereafter.
John.
Yep,
Has to agree with Zen Mod.
Converting a 100k linear pot to log with a
12k resistor is possible.
But not a 20k with a 2k as it will present a
low impedence load to your source such as the CD player.
(This wont harm the CD player as it is the same condition
as when you listen at low volume levels with a 50k pot)
Therefore, I have to agree, if using the B1 for silicon power amps
20k log should be the best option.
John.
Has to agree with Zen Mod.
Converting a 100k linear pot to log with a
12k resistor is possible.
But not a 20k with a 2k as it will present a
low impedence load to your source such as the CD player.
(This wont harm the CD player as it is the same condition
as when you listen at low volume levels with a 50k pot)
Therefore, I have to agree, if using the B1 for silicon power amps
20k log should be the best option.
John.
