Hi Guys,
Things are still moving along at a quick pace which is excellent! We're halfway there and counting.
I've updated the list again with all recent payments.
JBdv:
I'll get you exact measurements this evening when I get home. The height will depend on exactly what you populate on the board (connectors and PSU heatsinks) so I'll give you a few different numbers.
If you run across a good case, please post it up here, as I have yet to find one for myself.
Thanks,
Owen
Things are still moving along at a quick pace which is excellent! We're halfway there and counting.
I've updated the list again with all recent payments.
JBdv:
I'll get you exact measurements this evening when I get home. The height will depend on exactly what you populate on the board (connectors and PSU heatsinks) so I'll give you a few different numbers.
If you run across a good case, please post it up here, as I have yet to find one for myself.
Thanks,
Owen
JBdv:
Alright, here are the dimensions.
PSU: 2.050" wide by 2.700" long
AMP: 2.150" wide by 2.700" long
The tallest sections of the amp are as follows (measured from bottom of PCB):
1.075" - XLR Connectors on input
0.675" - Headphone output connector
0.575" - Bulk decoupling caps (polymer type)
0.250" - LME49600 IC's
The tallest sections of the PSU are as follows (measured from bottom of PCB):
1.300" - Bulk decoupling caps (electrolytic) on input of reg.
1.075" - Heatsinks for regulators (if you use 1" tall heatsinks eg. HS403-ND)
1.000" - Molex AC input jacks with plug inserted (not counting wires)
0.575" - Bulk decoupling caps (polymer type)
If reducing the height was a priority, the the lowest overall profile would likely be about 0.8" overall. To get there you would need to:
1. Use 1/8" spacers to hold the boards to the chassis.
2. Direct wire the XLR inputs off-board.
3. Use polymer bulk caps at the reg inputs.
4. Direct wire the AC inputs to the PSU.
5. Omit the regulator heatsinks.
6. mount the regs below the PSU board to the bottom of the chassis.
I'm not sure anyone is that stuck on a low profile chassis, but that's the lowest you could possibly go.
On the topic of reducing height, I would suggest that everyone go with the lower 1" tall heatsinks in place of the 1.5" tall one listed in the BOM. The DK part number for the 1" tall sinks is HS403-ND.
If there are any other questions, let me know.
Cheers,
Owen
Alright, here are the dimensions.
PSU: 2.050" wide by 2.700" long
AMP: 2.150" wide by 2.700" long
The tallest sections of the amp are as follows (measured from bottom of PCB):
1.075" - XLR Connectors on input
0.675" - Headphone output connector
0.575" - Bulk decoupling caps (polymer type)
0.250" - LME49600 IC's
The tallest sections of the PSU are as follows (measured from bottom of PCB):
1.300" - Bulk decoupling caps (electrolytic) on input of reg.
1.075" - Heatsinks for regulators (if you use 1" tall heatsinks eg. HS403-ND)
1.000" - Molex AC input jacks with plug inserted (not counting wires)
0.575" - Bulk decoupling caps (polymer type)
If reducing the height was a priority, the the lowest overall profile would likely be about 0.8" overall. To get there you would need to:
1. Use 1/8" spacers to hold the boards to the chassis.
2. Direct wire the XLR inputs off-board.
3. Use polymer bulk caps at the reg inputs.
4. Direct wire the AC inputs to the PSU.
5. Omit the regulator heatsinks.
6. mount the regs below the PSU board to the bottom of the chassis.
I'm not sure anyone is that stuck on a low profile chassis, but that's the lowest you could possibly go.
On the topic of reducing height, I would suggest that everyone go with the lower 1" tall heatsinks in place of the 1.5" tall one listed in the BOM. The DK part number for the 1" tall sinks is HS403-ND.
If there are any other questions, let me know.
Cheers,
Owen
Hi Guys,
Yet another updated list. The majority of people have paid already, which is really excellent! Most of the parts have arrived at the local UPS depot, so I can pick them up this evening and get a head start on the kits.
For those who have not yet paid, please do so as soon as possible. I would really rather not chase people around for the next four days.
Cheers,
Owen
Yet another updated list. The majority of people have paid already, which is really excellent! Most of the parts have arrived at the local UPS depot, so I can pick them up this evening and get a head start on the kits.
For those who have not yet paid, please do so as soon as possible. I would really rather not chase people around for the next four days.
Cheers,
Owen
Hi Guys,
Ever wonder what $2200 worth of electronic parts looks like? Pretty nondescript if you ask me.
Absolutely all the parts arrived in good order, and I'll be starting to organize the kits this weekend. My goal is to do 10 kits by Monday, 10 on Wednesday, and the last 10 on Friday. All kits will ship in the order of payment.
Speaking of payments, I think there are only 4 outstanding, and if I don't hear from them by Sunday, then I'll be giving the kits to those who are on the waiting list:
1. TheShaman - 1 extra kit
2. BOON
3. yhmzzz
A big thanks to those who have paid!
I'll update the list one more time over the weekend, and I'll be adding a column for shipping. All packages will be marked with a value of $15 CAD when they are shipped.
Cheers,
Owen
Ever wonder what $2200 worth of electronic parts looks like? Pretty nondescript if you ask me.
Absolutely all the parts arrived in good order, and I'll be starting to organize the kits this weekend. My goal is to do 10 kits by Monday, 10 on Wednesday, and the last 10 on Friday. All kits will ship in the order of payment.
Speaking of payments, I think there are only 4 outstanding, and if I don't hear from them by Sunday, then I'll be giving the kits to those who are on the waiting list:
1. TheShaman - 1 extra kit
2. BOON
3. yhmzzz
A big thanks to those who have paid!
I'll update the list one more time over the weekend, and I'll be adding a column for shipping. All packages will be marked with a value of $15 CAD when they are shipped.
Cheers,
Owen
Attachments
Hi Guys,
We had a busy weekend here in Ottawa with the Ottawa Winter DIY Meet. I passed on a few kits to people from Ottawa who purchased boards, and brought along my finished amplifier for people to see.
MrSlim:
I think I forgot to give you the extra pair of boards you ordered. Send me a PM and let me know how I can get them to you.
As far as payments go, the following people did not pay or contact me, and are being removed from the list.
FAA
Brett
pw8888
happyears
That frees up a total of 3 parts kits, and 5 boards. I ordered a few extra parts kits, so that leaves a grand total of 5 "boards and parts kits" left over. I'm hoping the following people on the waiting list will take three of those:
1. TheShaman - 1 extra kit
2. BOON
3. yhmzzz
I'll send out an email to these three people and see what happens. If you're still interested in a board and parts, now is the time to jump on it!
The first 10 orders are going to ship out this evening, and then I'll update the list.
Cheers,
Owen
We had a busy weekend here in Ottawa with the Ottawa Winter DIY Meet. I passed on a few kits to people from Ottawa who purchased boards, and brought along my finished amplifier for people to see.
MrSlim:
I think I forgot to give you the extra pair of boards you ordered. Send me a PM and let me know how I can get them to you.
As far as payments go, the following people did not pay or contact me, and are being removed from the list.
FAA
Brett
pw8888
happyears
That frees up a total of 3 parts kits, and 5 boards. I ordered a few extra parts kits, so that leaves a grand total of 5 "boards and parts kits" left over. I'm hoping the following people on the waiting list will take three of those:
1. TheShaman - 1 extra kit
2. BOON
3. yhmzzz
I'll send out an email to these three people and see what happens. If you're still interested in a board and parts, now is the time to jump on it!
The first 10 orders are going to ship out this evening, and then I'll update the list.
Cheers,
Owen
Hello Owen and fellow kit builders,
How are you going to build this thing?
I am considering a chassis larger than the form of the PCB and locating the XLR’s on the rear of the box and changing the TRS to a 4 pin XLR (separate ground conductor for each can) on the front so I can plug in a pair of head phones with balanced 4 wire cabling. Also add a stepped attenuator.
Owen do you have an idea of what the input impedance is?
Any construction thoughts?
DT
All just for fun!
How are you going to build this thing?
I am considering a chassis larger than the form of the PCB and locating the XLR’s on the rear of the box and changing the TRS to a 4 pin XLR (separate ground conductor for each can) on the front so I can plug in a pair of head phones with balanced 4 wire cabling. Also add a stepped attenuator.
Owen do you have an idea of what the input impedance is?
Any construction thoughts?
DT
All just for fun!
Same plan
I hope all this thing will work. I am still worried about the smd :-( I tried to test all the connections with a DMM and looks fine, but after I will populate the boards with the big caps it will be very difficult to go back and fix the smd.D.
I'm glad I bought 2 kits. There are a couple of those little smd resistors hiding somewhere on my workbench wating to be found and are laughing at me and I thought 1/8 watt resistors were small. I bought a little vacumn thingy that can pick up smd parts. Thank goodness for 8x eye loops, my trifocals are not good enough. I am practicing with the power supply boards first, oh yeah I had to buy a micro tiped 8 watt soldering iron, my trusty 140 watt Weller is a bit too big.
Hello fellow kit builders,
That is exactly why I bought this thing! I wanted to push my limits and the limits of my new Hako 936.
How are you going to build this thing?
Any construction thoughts?
DT
All just for fun!
Slowly, I am going to build it real slowly. I will be using one kit as a single ended headphone amp. and the other kit I think I can easily change it to be a line stage with gain and a very low Z output to drive headphones and cables. I was talking to Dave at the Ottawa DIY fest and I will borrow an idea that he told me about to build a complete new preamp for use at home.
Hi Guys,
I wouldn't sweat the SMD soldering too much... once you get the technique down it's quite a bit faster and easier than PTH.
You need a decent 50-100W iron with a small 2-3mm flat tip (the one that looks like a pan head screwdriver). Whatever you do, DO NOT use a needle point tip. I know people think right away that small parts need a fine point, but it just makes life much more difficult.
The Hakko 936 is a great example, and that's exactly what I use at home. I also use the Weller WD1002 at work, and it's a very good iron (better than the 936). If you do this as a hobby, you deserve to have a decent iron!
There are several videos online that show very good technique, so with a little practice, you should be good to go.
It would be wise to get some solder wick (copper braid) and use good solder!
Cheers,
Owen
I wouldn't sweat the SMD soldering too much... once you get the technique down it's quite a bit faster and easier than PTH.
You need a decent 50-100W iron with a small 2-3mm flat tip (the one that looks like a pan head screwdriver). Whatever you do, DO NOT use a needle point tip. I know people think right away that small parts need a fine point, but it just makes life much more difficult.
The Hakko 936 is a great example, and that's exactly what I use at home. I also use the Weller WD1002 at work, and it's a very good iron (better than the 936). If you do this as a hobby, you deserve to have a decent iron!
There are several videos online that show very good technique, so with a little practice, you should be good to go.
It would be wise to get some solder wick (copper braid) and use good solder!
Cheers,
Owen