1. Agreed which is why I am trying to build a pair of floor-standing speakers that do not necessarily need support from subwoofers. I do not listen to bass-heavy music such as EDM or Hip Hop. Most of my listening is Classic Rock from the 60s and 70s, some Jazz, some Blues, and some Piano Sonatas.
2. Agreed again. Usually trying to wrench too much bass extension would lead to other issues such as ringing. I assumed a QB3 alignment is not very aggressive. Below are a few SEAS drivers simulated in an 11-14 litre QB3 vented box. Are these slopes too steep?
3. I assume you are implying that a 60Hz cut-off is acceptable for my needs. With room gain (about 3 ft from side walls and 6 ft from the wall in front of me) this bass should suffice?
100 litres is big. Too big for my room.
I just compared 3 SEAS drivers simulated in an 11-14 litre closed box (0.7 alignments) against the L16RNX H1488 in an 11 litre QB3 vented box and the same driver in a 5 litre (0.7) closed box. For the 3 drivers simulated in a sealed box and I get an F6 of in the mid-40s and an F10 in the mid-30s.
Thank you, Dave and Allen. Have a great weekend.
Sealed, i wish you could stil get SDX7. Sealed, 14-21 litres each, lots of excursion. I still have a couple around, but not 4.
Bud Purvine never retured the push-push SDX7eN aperiodic TL helper woofers we loaned him. EnABL royalties in action. Used with EnABLed Lowether (OB).
dave
Bud Purvine never retured the push-push SDX7eN aperiodic TL helper woofers we loaned him. EnABL royalties in action. Used with EnABLed Lowether (OB).
dave
No stock but Madisound erase that model instead of just stamp it with "SOLD OUT"
Thanks, since the SDX 7 is not available I simulated several (under $125) woofers in 12L sealed using WINISD and figured that the SEAS L16RN-SL (H1480) has the closest response to flat (Q= 0.7). What do you think?
I kept a budget of $1000 for all 8 woofers. This means each woofer should be less than $125 (from Madisound).
Thanks, Allen, I did not get what you meant by "properly shape your passband and manage to deal with the modes". Could you elaborate? Thanks.
So much depends on how you get the sound into your room, whether it properly and evenly presents the whole range which supports what you hear as bass.
Sometimes people can add some extension, and the changed balance feels like an improvement. Sometimes it doesn't.. However there is much more that goes into good bass than extension.
Sometimes people can add some extension, and the changed balance feels like an improvement. Sometimes it doesn't.. However there is much more that goes into good bass than extension.
I agree, the blue curve does look best.
What I like about it, is that it's no more than a fraction of a dB up at 200Hz but half a dB up at 100 and holds down below 80Hz.
In spite of what I have been saying, any of these curves could end up looking like any other if your room doesn't play along.
What I like about it, is that it's no more than a fraction of a dB up at 200Hz but half a dB up at 100 and holds down below 80Hz.
In spite of what I have been saying, any of these curves could end up looking like any other if your room doesn't play along.
That driver is classified as a "subwoofer" by SB Acoustics.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...cl45-8-8-polypropylene-cone-sub-woofer-8-ohm/
But I understood the kind of curve I need to look for. I was looking only for curves that were flat with no rise in response whatsoever.
I simulated that subwoofer against a few other woofers (all of them in a 12-litre sealed box).
Blue line - SB23MFCL45 - the curve of the woofer both Dave you liked above.
Dark Green - SB17CAC35 - the curve I like most now
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...coustics-sb17cac35-8-6-ceramic-woofer-8-ohms/
Light Green - SB17NRX2C35
Red - SEAS L16RN-SL (H1480) - the same woofer which was my earlier preferred option (post #2128)
Pink - SB17CRC35
Thanks, Dave. I will have limited internet access for the month of July (I'll be in Poland, trying to keep safe). I am keeping the SB23MFCL (blue curve) subwoofer as well as 2 alternates (due to availability issues) as my choices. I understand you don't see any issues with using a "subwoofer" instead of a "woofer" in this application assuming that the driver would be crossed over around 300Hz.
The alternates I have in mind are the SB Acoustics SB17CAC35-8 (red curve) and the SEAS H1480 L16RN-SL (green curve). The former is my "1st runner up" and the latter is almost always available.
I'm new to this, but considering getting the Pluvia 7.2 HD as suitable sized drivers for my living room for both music and for my tv. It's 4x4m with the listening position roughly in the middle of that.
I understand this gets complicated depending on the room accoustics, but would these be a suitable size? If so, any cabinet plan recommendations? No WAF required and I don't mind if it's a complex build, but I'll never be pushing them to the limit either (neighbour approval factor will be moderately important
).
I understand this gets complicated depending on the room accoustics, but would these be a suitable size? If so, any cabinet plan recommendations? No WAF required and I don't mind if it's a complex build, but I'll never be pushing them to the limit either (neighbour approval factor will be moderately important
).
@Psigh, where are you in the world?
I have run the 7.2's sister drivers the Alpair 7's for years, they make great tv/music speakers, they are fantastic, I usually have small sealed or ported enclosures and they sound great, and I even cut the tv's bass sometimes as I feel its too loud for the neighbours! But these are only a 4.5" driver so you are not going to get window rattling bass.
The little drivers do require 50-200hrs to fully run in. So if I was you, make a small sealed box, run in the drivers for a month and you can get a taste of the sound and that gives you the time to make a larger more complex cabinet.
Stefan site KJF has some plans on the pluvia page
https://kjfaudio.com/product/pluvia-7-2-hd/
If you are UK I probably has some parts that may be of interest.
I have run the 7.2's sister drivers the Alpair 7's for years, they make great tv/music speakers, they are fantastic, I usually have small sealed or ported enclosures and they sound great, and I even cut the tv's bass sometimes as I feel its too loud for the neighbours! But these are only a 4.5" driver so you are not going to get window rattling bass.
The little drivers do require 50-200hrs to fully run in. So if I was you, make a small sealed box, run in the drivers for a month and you can get a taste of the sound and that gives you the time to make a larger more complex cabinet.
Stefan site KJF has some plans on the pluvia page
https://kjfaudio.com/product/pluvia-7-2-hd/
If you are UK I probably has some parts that may be of interest.
With Navin's proyect of Kef Blade speaker style starts my interest for the Tyson V2, I make some drawings with 2cm. thinner.
Just waitin for answer to my email from Dave to see if its possible and start cutting wood.
Just waitin for answer to my email from Dave to see if its possible and start cutting wood.
