I'd like a little higher usable dB's, ~ 92dB sensitivity range if even possible with the MAOP process? I get the idea these drivers are already pushing the limits, doubt we will see that working with an old A12 metal cone foundation. Thinking out loud; Maybe Mg cone base for MAOP IDK? Perhaps a larger diameter cone, say 7.5" or 8"?What Jeff said. The original A12 metal cone could be done, but Mark had to push to even make it work… we might see a 2nd gen, but with 11s maybe not.
dave
Story of my life! 😉Be wary of analysis paralysis.
dave
Yeah, true. I guess I was referring to the larger models with the ultra shallow cone profile.The first ms MAOP is the MAOP 5.3.
dave
Sorry for the delay. I did try the SB drivers but I am getting very different results from what Madisound suggests.Have you looked on SB drivers?
For example, for the SB17CAC35 their website suggests "0.50 cubic foot with 2" x 6.7" long port for an F3 of 44Hz"
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...coustics-sb17cac35-8-6-ceramic-woofer-8-ohms/
WinISD and VituixCAD however suggest a box size that is closer to 1 cu. ft (25 litres). With this larger box size, I get the following simulated result
Talking of SB Acoustics vs SEAS why are the curves so different. I understand SEAS and SB Acoustics might be using different testing methods but almost ALL the SB drivers have this rather odd bump in their response curves (see below)
The SEAS drivers do not exhibit this bump (see example below)
Meanwhile, I am hardening to the view that may be the SEAS H1480 with its lower sensitivity below 300Hz might be the best match to the MAOP 7.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...estige-l16rn-sl-h1480-5-aluminum-cone-woofer/
Opinions?
Thanks.
too small an anechoci chamber to test in?but almost ALL the SB drivers have this rather odd bump in their response curves (see below)
dave
A quick look started at 25 litre /driver, tuned to 30 Hz (i would use a slot), gets into the low 20s F10, if you have significant room gain maybe even lower....suggest a box size that is closer to 1 cu. ft (25 litres).
dave
True but then I can only use 2 drivers in 50 litres. In which case I could consider an 8" woofer like the SEAS L22 (linked below) as it would move more air than a 6" woofer. The L22 has a QB3 alignment (at least according to WINISD and VituixCAD) of 25 Litres with a Fb of about 32Hz and an F3 of about 40HzA quick look started at 25 litre /driver, tuned to 30 Hz (i would use a slot), gets into the low 20s F10, if you have significant room gain maybe even lower.
dave
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...stige-l22rn4x/p-h1208-8-aluminum-cone-woofer/
Last edited:
I would use subwoofers only for home theatre. For regular 2-channel listening, I find subwoofers too distracting. I'd rather miss that last octave.If you will be using subs, a more gentle rolloff would be preferred.
When you say a "more gentle roll-off" do you mean a gentler roll-off than a QB3 alignment?
I agree on the question of subs which is why I only depend on them for effects (home theatre) and not 2 channel music.Yes, for example closed.
Setting up subs can be difficult without following procedures. I treat the addition of subs as a project in itself. A sub that doesn't fit in can sound the way you describe, but it's possible for them to disappear completely.
Using a sealed box (closed box) would give me an F3 not lower than 60Hz. Granted the slower roll-off would compensate especially in the room.
Since I do not intend to use subwoofers at least for 2 channel music (the same speakers will be used for home theatre with a subwoofer for effects) and given that the area of my box (around 500cm2) is barely larger than the combined Sd of the woofers (around 400cm2) would you recommend that a bass-reflex might be a more compatible box (in this application) compared to an ML-TL (which I understand expects a box area that is 4x the Sd of the woofers) or closed (which has an F3 that is somewhat higher - 40hz for vented, 60hz for sealed)?
I think it's understood that using a too gentle rolloff makes the system need those subs, so if they are going to be optional then you need to look towards more bass for the mains.
I also assume it is known that trying aggressively for bass extension ends up in a sharp rolloff and that isn't always a good thing.
In addition, I know that having a system flat in-room to 100Hz is better than people may think.. and since doing that properly is difficult, I'm saying that one wants to put efforts in the right places and not lose sight of that. Make sure the passband area is treated well in practice.
If you're not enjoying yourself with at least a 70Hz cutoff then you may be doing something wrong.
I also assume it is known that trying aggressively for bass extension ends up in a sharp rolloff and that isn't always a good thing.
In addition, I know that having a system flat in-room to 100Hz is better than people may think.. and since doing that properly is difficult, I'm saying that one wants to put efforts in the right places and not lose sight of that. Make sure the passband area is treated well in practice.
If you're not enjoying yourself with at least a 70Hz cutoff then you may be doing something wrong.
Using a sealed box (closed box) would give me an F3 not lower than 60Hz. Granted the slower roll-off would compensate especially in the room.
Ignore F3, look at F6/F10. And if you have EQ (as well as power & excursion) can be made as flat and low as needed.
But i did look at it and thot that a LOT of room gain would be needed without that.
The 100/litres. 2 drivers was an optimal alignment, a smaller box can be done and IME, the miniOnken alignment still keeps things in control and tuneful. Usually a bit stronger midBass comes with.
dave
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- New Markaudio Drivers