Lockdown blues or no, it was at least productive in that it gave time for designing new speakers / enclosures. Since none of these have a suitable home on other threads, I'll drop them in here. Usual disclaimer applies -I make no pretense these are good drawings, state of the art designs, 'perfect', or to all tastes. They're just what I did assuming various targets (since most people want different things, I try to cover a reasonable number of bases).
First up, three more for the Pluvia 7HD to go with the existing designs. More to follow for a modest variety of drivers over the next week.
First up, three more for the Pluvia 7HD to go with the existing designs. More to follow for a modest variety of drivers over the next week.
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I have been looking at these plans and doing mental experiments based on a number of designs I have built and/or heard over the years. It's a lot of fun to think of the types of rooms, music, amplifiers, etc. where each of these designs would shine, or not.
I purchased the Poplar plans because that is the cabinet that will best fit the bedroom 5.2 HT setup I am in the process of building. There has been this niggling concern, however, giving me pause that I have been unable to articulate. It has something to do with the "presence" or "impact" that is sometimes demanded of HT material. I have used the A10.3m before and it is a great all round affordable driver. I already have a couple that have been in different enclosures. I thought it was bass extension at first that was concerning me. But looking at the dual driver designs in this thread I now think that a dual driver Poplar with a pair of A10.3m's would do a better job for the FL and FR. The center and RL/RR would be fine as single driver Poplars. The bass extension of the Poplar/A10.3m is plenty adequate in a small bedroom with two subwoofers. But now I realize what has given me pause is the amount of skin or square inches of driver in the game. What modification to the Poplar would allow it to become a dual driver enclosure? Or, am I barking up the wrong tree?
I purchased the Poplar plans because that is the cabinet that will best fit the bedroom 5.2 HT setup I am in the process of building. There has been this niggling concern, however, giving me pause that I have been unable to articulate. It has something to do with the "presence" or "impact" that is sometimes demanded of HT material. I have used the A10.3m before and it is a great all round affordable driver. I already have a couple that have been in different enclosures. I thought it was bass extension at first that was concerning me. But looking at the dual driver designs in this thread I now think that a dual driver Poplar with a pair of A10.3m's would do a better job for the FL and FR. The center and RL/RR would be fine as single driver Poplars. The bass extension of the Poplar/A10.3m is plenty adequate in a small bedroom with two subwoofers. But now I realize what has given me pause is the amount of skin or square inches of driver in the game. What modification to the Poplar would allow it to become a dual driver enclosure? Or, am I barking up the wrong tree?
I've been thinking about building this Sonido stand mount because it's not too large of a speaker and my room isn't that large. But i also think that you (Scott) have mentioned working on other Sonido designs which I'm assuming is a frugal horn. Are any of the Sonido enclosures you haven't released going to be smaller? Smaller to me means less than 1000 mm tall, 300mm wide?
Sonido has a smaller enclosure for their oval driver as well that I'm considering also.
Sonido has a smaller enclosure for their oval driver as well that I'm considering also.
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I did; they were only part-complete though & I wasn't happy with them, so they didn't progress from there. Those particular designs are consigned to the bin; I've something a little different up my sleeve for them which will appear on the Woden site; however, right now Dave has enough on his plate without me dropping a complete new range of 'site speakers' on him, so I'm holding fire until he's cleared some of those & custom commisions.
Meanwhile, continuing the lockdown designs, three more, this time for the paper-cone Pluvia 7P-HD.
I'm particularly pleased with Pangolin, which (unusually for muggins here) is a maximally flat box tuned to 0.707Fs. Max-flat isn't an alignment I usually like, but it should suit the P-HD characteristic, so for once, here it is.
I'm particularly pleased with Pangolin, which (unusually for muggins here) is a maximally flat box tuned to 0.707Fs. Max-flat isn't an alignment I usually like, but it should suit the P-HD characteristic, so for once, here it is.
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Thanks Scott!
The driver specs show a rising response. Does that need to be compensated for in some way? I don’t mind trying different things to To correct it and see it as an opportunity to learn a few new things.
I’m getting restless and need some sort of project to work on.
The driver specs show a rising response. Does that need to be compensated for in some way? I don’t mind trying different things to To correct it and see it as an opportunity to learn a few new things.
I’m getting restless and need some sort of project to work on.
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Short answer: 'it depends' I'm afraid. The measurement conditions of the driver are not stated, and paper assumptions of necessary 'correction' do not generally take into account system behaviour -amplifier characteristics, room acoustics, position of the speaker within that space, and whether you are listening off-axis, which is what is intended for most wideband drivers with a rising axial response. So my general ROT / advice in such cases is to build it, and see what EQ, if any, you wish to apply based on actual experience and requirements / preferences.
Scott,
I've ordered the Sonido drivers and they are in transit from Hungary and I'm working on the box. However I'll admit I didn't fully understand some of your notes about voltage source amps and "moderate" output impedance.
I spent some time simulating the box and I'm pretty much matching your posted specs and see how the output impedance affects the curve.
One of my amps is a voltage source amp (Aleph J) but it's output impedance is on the lower side - .4 ohms.
Is the solution as easy as putting a resistor in series with the output of the amp to bring up the output impedance to 2.5 ohms? Or does that just raise the impedance at the speaker?
Thanks,
Kevin
I've ordered the Sonido drivers and they are in transit from Hungary and I'm working on the box. However I'll admit I didn't fully understand some of your notes about voltage source amps and "moderate" output impedance.
I spent some time simulating the box and I'm pretty much matching your posted specs and see how the output impedance affects the curve.
One of my amps is a voltage source amp (Aleph J) but it's output impedance is on the lower side - .4 ohms.
Is the solution as easy as putting a resistor in series with the output of the amp to bring up the output impedance to 2.5 ohms? Or does that just raise the impedance at the speaker?
Thanks,
Kevin
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More Pluvia 11 boxes. Might as well have them together.
-A tall MLTL. Closer to being a 'true' MLTL than some, as it doesn't use as much forcing. That isn't to say it's 'better' or 'worse' than shorter types. Just a bit different. YMMV.
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/Tower-MLTL-P11.pdf
-A compact standmount 'monitor'. No, I'm not claiming it's a studio monitor, just using the term loosely. Live with it.
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/Pluvia11-compactMonitor.pdf
These are not in any kind of date order BTW. Sorry.
Thanks for these designs. Does this Tall MLTL need stuffing? If yes then what material and in what amount? And can you please throw some light on performance ? How low it should go and how is its dynamic range particularly if compared to Pensil 11?
Twin Alpair6.2m Stand mount 0v8 Questions
Hi all,
Researching for my first build and am heavily leaning towards a full range design. First, I'd just like to say thank you all for the info I've been reading past and present from you all for months. It's been really informative and enjoyable as I embark on my journey.
I'm drawn to the Twin Alpair 6.2m Standmount 0v8 design as it fits almost to a tee the space limitations and wife appeal factors I have to deal with. So I have a couple questions. First, I've looked some but can only find the drivers in listed on eBay, is there an updated Markaudio driver available from say Madisound that would work in this design?
Would this design work as a bookshelf (29 inches high, ear height, 46 inches apart.)?
I'm pretty sure the next answer is no, but can it be front ported? If not, how close to a wall if I acoustically treat behind it could it sit?
Anyone who has built these, any listening impressions? Do you prefer running both full or capping one? Advantages?
My setup will be 2.1, with a NAD d 3045 as the early leader for amp (wife ease of use with it's HDMI ARC input). Open to suggestions with that parameter as well as form, the band's small form factor is very wife friendly. Will be building the sub after the speakers to make sure I match them well. Will be used for vinyl (most important sound-wise for me) and for tv (why HDMI ARC is important, want a foolproof 1 remote my wife can use solution for tv.)
Room is funky, an old 4 square with an old porch turned into a sun room. "Main room" is about 13x10, and the speakers will live on a shelf on a wall with the foyer and a 3 ft wall that then opens to a sunroom. Main room opens into the dining room as well. Our listening position is just about the perfect triangle for where the speakers will be. Horrible for sound, so I'm already planning on bringing a dsp to the mix for room correction (open to suggestions on best of those as well.)
I'm open to any suggestions, but unfortunately I have no room for floor standers (would love a pensil or TABAQ) and I'd like to keep it as narrow as possible. Think "bookend" speakers as it will be sharing space with vinyl. The more narrow, the more vinyl. My height limit is 13" and depth is 16 (but could push to 18-20" if they sat of the back of the shelf tight to wall.
We listen to all types of music. My goal is get that out of the box sound that feels you can hear the instruments and voices in their own space. My other notions so far have been a narrow, deep closed box with BG Neo 8S's and hope I can get them low enough to cross with a sub. The other is using PVC pipe to build a sort of Speedster or an MTM Speedster. (This would require learning crossover design as well and I'm not sure it would bring the "charm" I'm seeking or not.)
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it!
Michael
Hi all,
Researching for my first build and am heavily leaning towards a full range design. First, I'd just like to say thank you all for the info I've been reading past and present from you all for months. It's been really informative and enjoyable as I embark on my journey.
I'm drawn to the Twin Alpair 6.2m Standmount 0v8 design as it fits almost to a tee the space limitations and wife appeal factors I have to deal with. So I have a couple questions. First, I've looked some but can only find the drivers in listed on eBay, is there an updated Markaudio driver available from say Madisound that would work in this design?
Would this design work as a bookshelf (29 inches high, ear height, 46 inches apart.)?
I'm pretty sure the next answer is no, but can it be front ported? If not, how close to a wall if I acoustically treat behind it could it sit?
Anyone who has built these, any listening impressions? Do you prefer running both full or capping one? Advantages?
My setup will be 2.1, with a NAD d 3045 as the early leader for amp (wife ease of use with it's HDMI ARC input). Open to suggestions with that parameter as well as form, the band's small form factor is very wife friendly. Will be building the sub after the speakers to make sure I match them well. Will be used for vinyl (most important sound-wise for me) and for tv (why HDMI ARC is important, want a foolproof 1 remote my wife can use solution for tv.)
Room is funky, an old 4 square with an old porch turned into a sun room. "Main room" is about 13x10, and the speakers will live on a shelf on a wall with the foyer and a 3 ft wall that then opens to a sunroom. Main room opens into the dining room as well. Our listening position is just about the perfect triangle for where the speakers will be. Horrible for sound, so I'm already planning on bringing a dsp to the mix for room correction (open to suggestions on best of those as well.)
I'm open to any suggestions, but unfortunately I have no room for floor standers (would love a pensil or TABAQ) and I'd like to keep it as narrow as possible. Think "bookend" speakers as it will be sharing space with vinyl. The more narrow, the more vinyl. My height limit is 13" and depth is 16 (but could push to 18-20" if they sat of the back of the shelf tight to wall.
We listen to all types of music. My goal is get that out of the box sound that feels you can hear the instruments and voices in their own space. My other notions so far have been a narrow, deep closed box with BG Neo 8S's and hope I can get them low enough to cross with a sub. The other is using PVC pipe to build a sort of Speedster or an MTM Speedster. (This would require learning crossover design as well and I'm not sure it would bring the "charm" I'm seeking or not.)
Thanks for any input, I appreciate it!
Michael
Cindra,
If I am not wrong, this joint is called a "lock miter joint".
To my knowledge it is uncommon among DIYers, who mostly use the "butt joint". However, xrk971 is having a cabinet built using lock miter joints. Please note that he has a skilled cabinet maker doing it for him.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mul...ng-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-25.html#post6271337
Most folks would say it is overkill.
If I am not wrong, this joint is called a "lock miter joint".
To my knowledge it is uncommon among DIYers, who mostly use the "butt joint". However, xrk971 is having a cabinet built using lock miter joints. Please note that he has a skilled cabinet maker doing it for him.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mul...ng-ptt6-5-rs28f-waveguide-25.html#post6271337
Most folks would say it is overkill.
Laminated plywood is a lot harder on a bit than dimensional lumber. I would not want to wear out an expensive bit on plywood. That said, it will work without significant tearout, where you can see it. I think you will get better results with a straight miter cut on a table saw. If you were building small drawers or boxes you might privilege the stability of a fancy locking joint. But you are building boxes with very long joints and lots of area for glue ups. The cut you care about is the miter edge and you will get a cleaner and more reliable cut with a sharp table saw blade. It's a cool joint for small boxes but you will get a better joint for a speaker cabinet with a table saw IMHO.
