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A Study of DML's as a Full Range Speaker
A Study of DML's as a Full Range Speaker
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:29 AM   #31
CLS is offline CLS  Taiwan
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freddi,

Nice find!

It's said thin plywood (3mm) is a good material for panel. I haven't try it.

I've tried my desk in office which is thick particle board. It's too heavy. Lighter material would be more efficient.
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:36 AM   #32
freddi is offline freddi  United States
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A Study of DML's as a Full Range Speaker
if we knew how well it would work, for those in the US, it would be around $23 shipped for two 24"x30" pieces of 3mm Baltic birch - 30x48 might be good

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Piece-B...m+baltic+birch
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:52 AM   #33
perceval is offline perceval  Taiwan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLS View Post
freddi,

Nice find!

It's said thin plywood (3mm) is a good material for panel. I haven't try it.

I've tried my desk in office which is thick particle board. It's too heavy. Lighter material would be more efficient.
We have lots of mom and pop shops here selling up to 4x8 panels of thin ply. That was my first thought when I first saw the DML threads...
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Old 8th April 2015, 03:01 AM   #34
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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A Study of DML's as a Full Range Speaker
I think 4x8 Sureply luaan plywood used for sub floors might be an alternative. 3/16in thick I think.
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Old 8th April 2015, 01:36 PM   #35
Soldermizer is offline Soldermizer  United States
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Always on the lookout for esoteric new ideas to try myself, I wondered what "DML" means. OK, I've read the entire thread and now I know So far my experimentation consists of dissecting a spare Selenium tweeter (easy), glueing five pennies in a stack to its voice coil (Gorilla Glue, of course) and to a coroplast board and ... to be determined. Not quite full range. DML does "sound" like a cool idea. Isn't this similar to Poly-Planar, a product from the 1970s, I believe?
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:15 PM   #36
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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A Study of DML's as a Full Range Speaker
Why the pennies? To bring fs down? Take an old cheap full range driver like the ones in PC speakers and cut spiders into the cone to vent it. Add a hard plastic or cardboard puck glued to the voice coil or dustcap so that it extends out. If surround doesn't bump up, glue bezel and puck to your panel (or use double sided tape). Otherwise add a ring of foam core to the bezel to elevate before gluing to panel. Now you have a full range exciter or transducer for a DML.
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:27 PM   #37
Soldermizer is offline Soldermizer  United States
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The pennies was a 5x stack to connect the voice coil to my panel. I had read one of the Walsh threads and I think it suggested a tweeter. Also this was the most readily avaiable victim

Also, to construct a Walsh type driver is a bit more involved than the exciters. I apparently don't have any diamond or carbon nanotube foil on hand not to mention the fine assembly skills required.

XRK, thank you for the suggestion. I looked at a "normal" driver (actually a 12" woofer) and it looked like it would require cutting off the metal basket and removing the cone. Perhaps your method will work...I just need to envision it a bit first.

Now, off to the closet to look for a suitable victim to experiment upon
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Old 8th April 2015, 02:52 PM   #38
perceval is offline perceval  Taiwan
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Same here! I have a couple of cheap $3 3" drivers, and I'm trying to figure out the steps to turn it into a transducer... Got a picture!?
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Old 8th April 2015, 03:53 PM   #39
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perceval View Post
Same here! I have a couple of cheap $3 3" drivers, and I'm trying to figure out the steps to turn it into a transducer... Got a picture!?
I haven't actually done this yet - but here is my plan:

1. Cut out the (red) colored sections of the cone to make a 5-arm suspension spider.

2. Add layer of wood or plastic standoffs where mounting screws go (yellow) by gluing (hot melt) plastic washers or wood washers/discs to elevate bezel to allow surround to move without touching panel.

3. Add a round hard plastic or wooden disc (green) or puck that fits over the voice coil and dustcap - needs to be stiff to transmit pressure from voice coil.

On a side view, the standoffs (yellow) need to be flush with puck (green) and have sufficient clearance for x-limit movement (usually more than xmax). The idea is to have the cone cutout to remove the ability of the cone to act as a sound radiator but still provide suspension attachment to the basket/bezel.

Either use glue or double sided tape to stick the standoffs and puck to the panel. Note that this works fine for smaller lightweight drivers (3in and under with light magnets). For larger drivers with heavy magnets, an external support structure for mounting the driver basket and magnet to an external frame that supports both the panel and driver is needed.

Here is a sketch of a typical 3in polycone driver that can be cut as described above:

Click the image to open in full size.
Attached Images
File Type: png Driver-mods-exciter.png (802.9 KB, 1415 views)
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Old 8th April 2015, 05:04 PM   #40
Soldermizer is offline Soldermizer  United States
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My thinking is similar but I work with Gorilla Glue and empty cat food cans. 😹I am using a 12 inch woofer and I gorilla glued an inverted can to cover the voice coil. I am leaving the cone uncut for the time being. My thinking is this: depending on how much space you have with this the standoffs or spacers, the cone radiating sound may not be an issue. Consider that when voice coil transmitting the force to the surface, this will reduce cone displacement. I can fillet the cone later 😛
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