For those that feel that their unit is too bright, how is your “Roll Off” switch set? For modern RIAA records the correct (in terms of RIAA frequency response) setting for this switch is “On”. If you set the Roll Off to “Flat” everything is not just too bright it’s the totally incorrect EQ for RIAA. You only want the Roll Off switch “Flat” for those 2 78 rpm settings.
It may not be the V-Caps. I have the ODAM and my unit is not too bright. In fact engaging the Roll Off to “On” gives me use of the pot to fine tune some pressings that may be too dull or too sibilant.
It may not be the V-Caps. I have the ODAM and my unit is not too bright. In fact engaging the Roll Off to “On” gives me use of the pot to fine tune some pressings that may be too dull or too sibilant.
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Good point Toobuzz, yes all need to try roll off. I found it either too flat or back to where I was. Just to be clear the 500 hours of usage was at first listening to records and swapping out lots of tubes including running all CV4003.Then ran streamer into inverse RIAA for about 250 hours. It did tame some of the brightness. After that it’s been usual vinyl listening. I have a fairly warm cartridge, Soundsmith Carmen and had it when I owned Sutherland, LCR and Rogue Audio and the combo was detailed, relaxing but never this bright.
Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with this phono preamp. It is just tad too bright for me.
Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with this phono preamp. It is just tad too bright for me.
Just to second Toobuzz’s comment, definitely remember to have the roll off switch at ‘on’ position when listening to regular riaa records (and with the roll off knob at 12 oclock). I made that mistake before and everything was bright and tinny.
Just for another data point - I have the vcap and havent had any issues with the amp being too bright.
Just for another data point - I have the vcap and havent had any issues with the amp being too bright.
This is a matter of taste, depending on the speaker and the volume you listen to. (not the VCAP ODAM issue)
There is an effective way to adjust the brightness to fit your taste..
R5=51kohm is responsible for the high frequency response, so try replacing R5 with 75kohm. You will notice a slight reduction in the high frequency response.
At the same time, the gain of the equalizer itself will increase slightly.
There is no electrical backlash by changing R5, so please try it.
Also we test a lot of output caps.. We picked VCAP ODAM, because it gave the best sound from other caps relative to the sound preference of the group of audiophiles (who were testing the caps).
There is an effective way to adjust the brightness to fit your taste..
R5=51kohm is responsible for the high frequency response, so try replacing R5 with 75kohm. You will notice a slight reduction in the high frequency response.
At the same time, the gain of the equalizer itself will increase slightly.
There is no electrical backlash by changing R5, so please try it.
Also we test a lot of output caps.. We picked VCAP ODAM, because it gave the best sound from other caps relative to the sound preference of the group of audiophiles (who were testing the caps).
I struggled with the proper position with the Roll Off switch too! If you look at the second image labeled “Operation Manual 2 & 3” in post #1 (which is also in our manual) is says….
[Roll-off selection]
Select “On” for LP playback and “Flat” for SP playback. (USA-SP, EU-SP)
This bothered me not having more clarity than this. I agree with Victor, this unit is all about taste and there are no wrong settings, but based on my ears I think this is the starting point for standard LPs (RIAA).
[Roll-off selection]
Select “On” for LP playback and “Flat” for SP playback. (USA-SP, EU-SP)
This bothered me not having more clarity than this. I agree with Victor, this unit is all about taste and there are no wrong settings, but based on my ears I think this is the starting point for standard LPs (RIAA).
When I was looking at speeding up the burning in of the teflon Riaa stage and teflon output capacitors in my Bottlehead Eros
The method I used was a inexpensive 3.5mm TRS jack to 2xrca phono lead. Plug one end into a old iPod/phone the other into the phono inputs and leave it playing its music library on shuffle.
Reduce phone volume to zero and then increase up till music is playing at normal levels through the speakers. Turn off speaker amp and leave the rest running. It's a easy get round to get some extra burn in time without putting hours on your phono cartridge.
The method I used was a inexpensive 3.5mm TRS jack to 2xrca phono lead. Plug one end into a old iPod/phone the other into the phono inputs and leave it playing its music library on shuffle.
Reduce phone volume to zero and then increase up till music is playing at normal levels through the speakers. Turn off speaker amp and leave the rest running. It's a easy get round to get some extra burn in time without putting hours on your phono cartridge.
Speeding up burn-in time
I purchased an inverse riaa filter from Hagerman Labs
iRIAA2 - Inverse RIAA Filter – Hagerman Audio Labs
I know, I know. After building this phono stage I could've made this simple filter on vero board for pennies but I was feeling lazy. Anyway the application is pretty straight forward. I run my dac through the pcb which both attenuates the signal by about 40dB (60dB for MC inputs) and runs the signal through a passive filter that is the inverse of the RIAA standard so I can run my dac through the preamp and listen for changes while I stream Qobuz in 48 hour increments. Its also useful if you run into problems while building and need to run test signals and signal trace
I purchased an inverse riaa filter from Hagerman Labs
iRIAA2 - Inverse RIAA Filter – Hagerman Audio Labs
I know, I know. After building this phono stage I could've made this simple filter on vero board for pennies but I was feeling lazy. Anyway the application is pretty straight forward. I run my dac through the pcb which both attenuates the signal by about 40dB (60dB for MC inputs) and runs the signal through a passive filter that is the inverse of the RIAA standard so I can run my dac through the preamp and listen for changes while I stream Qobuz in 48 hour increments. Its also useful if you run into problems while building and need to run test signals and signal trace
A bit of help needed
I assembled the SV very carefully. I checked every item and its location more than twice.
When assembled all the voltages read as per the specs. But no sound came out.
I have checked all the connections 7 times now and cannot see any problem, apart from being (shall I say) VERY quiet!
On gazing at the circuit diagram vs the instructions I see a connection between V+ and V- on CN7 and CN8 on the Head amp on the board but not on the circuit diagram. Intuition tells me not to connect a + and a - so I have left that out.
Any ideas?
Wayne
I assembled the SV very carefully. I checked every item and its location more than twice.
When assembled all the voltages read as per the specs. But no sound came out.
I have checked all the connections 7 times now and cannot see any problem, apart from being (shall I say) VERY quiet!
On gazing at the circuit diagram vs the instructions I see a connection between V+ and V- on CN7 and CN8 on the Head amp on the board but not on the circuit diagram. Intuition tells me not to connect a + and a - so I have left that out.
Any ideas?
Wayne
Assembled EQ1616D is Mid November
The phono is now in Nagoya Japan witing shipping space.
EQ1616D + SV1616D
https://flic.kr/p/2myksDV https://www.flickr.com/photos/64593884@N08/
The phono is now in Nagoya Japan witing shipping space.
EQ1616D + SV1616D
https://flic.kr/p/2myksDV https://www.flickr.com/photos/64593884@N08/