That's why I try to change only one thing at a time.
Speaking of which, a short time ago I replaced the capacitors as per the okapi-pdf.
From the beginning I was planning to go the lowest-cost way possible with the Shigaclone project. Since I have access to some surplus components at work, that is not too difficult. It excludes esoteric caps (like BG), but IMO standard stuff of industrial quality goes 95% of the way anyway.
I'm really not willing to pay big bucks for a marginal improvement. You may or may not agree with this statement, but through the Shigaclone project I found out that my hearing is not really capable of detecting minute changes in sound quality (that may in part be caused by the fact that I continuously ask myself if I'm really hearing changes or just imagining them). What my hearing does seem very sensitive of is changes in musicality and I've found some "improvements" to degrade this aspect of sound reproduction.
Most of the caps I replaced with the well known light blue ones (was Philips, is now BC/Vishay), for the smaller values I used MKT. My first impression from cold was a slight improvement in musicality, now that they're burned in a bit more, this first impression seems to hold. Lately I've been listening to a lot of old school rock music (e.g. AC/DC's Highway to Hell) which IMO is great for hearing PRaT, and the Shigaclone simply excels at it!
Speaking of which, a short time ago I replaced the capacitors as per the okapi-pdf.
From the beginning I was planning to go the lowest-cost way possible with the Shigaclone project. Since I have access to some surplus components at work, that is not too difficult. It excludes esoteric caps (like BG), but IMO standard stuff of industrial quality goes 95% of the way anyway.
I'm really not willing to pay big bucks for a marginal improvement. You may or may not agree with this statement, but through the Shigaclone project I found out that my hearing is not really capable of detecting minute changes in sound quality (that may in part be caused by the fact that I continuously ask myself if I'm really hearing changes or just imagining them). What my hearing does seem very sensitive of is changes in musicality and I've found some "improvements" to degrade this aspect of sound reproduction.
Most of the caps I replaced with the well known light blue ones (was Philips, is now BC/Vishay), for the smaller values I used MKT. My first impression from cold was a slight improvement in musicality, now that they're burned in a bit more, this first impression seems to hold. Lately I've been listening to a lot of old school rock music (e.g. AC/DC's Highway to Hell) which IMO is great for hearing PRaT, and the Shigaclone simply excels at it!
jitter said:
Most of those caps are not really needed to be replaced. Presently, I replace only 2 caps, as mentioned here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1671038#post1671038
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669755#post1669755
Peter Daniel said:
Thank you Daniel. It is not a question what type of switch then mechanical solution how my wife could change CDs easy
I have plenty options od differents switch types to choose from, just out of ideas how to implement.
From the beginning my idea was to put dark glass on the top as movable cover wich would push that switch. However this is not finished yet cause can't find proper hinges.
P.S.
Peter, well, this is a good time to say "Thank you" for share this project with world. Besides that two small words which were written here number of times, I believe that the greatest satisfaction for you is the number of successfully finished shigaclones.
I am proud that mine is one of them. Tnx!
Peter Daniel said:
Yes, I was aware of that, but I liked the fact that okapi used much smaller capacitances than the original ones. Plus I don't have particular good experiences with Chinese caps when it comes to longevity. I might even replace the others with the same values of BC/Vishay too, just for peace of mind...
jitter said:
Actually, much smaller capacitance was dictated by my choice of implementing BG N caps here, that's where okapi's pdf file comes from. But later experiments indicate that BG Ns might not be actually the best choice here. The original caps on that board are pretty good, Chinese or not.
Right now I'm thinking about reverting to the original values (except for C916, more experimenting is needed here) because it seems that the mech has developed some tracking difficulties since swapping the caps. It needs more time to start playing CD's and searching is slower too. Also, the 7808 in the PSU gets slightly warmer than it did before, as if it's working harder (without increase in current consumption!) 
. That cannot be good...
On top of that, this morning I was thinking "wow, these new caps are burning in nicely, this sounds GOOD" but when I looked again I noticed I was listening to my Primare D20, not the Shigaclone... (I had forgotton I started listening to a CD in the Shiga that I later swapped to the D20 when the Shiga started skipping on that damaged disc). That was an unexpected revelation, because it means that all the time I was thinking that the Shiga+Micromega DAC1 was at least as good as the D20, but in the end this turned out to be the result of wishful thinking! I'm not saying that the combo is bad but the D20 is simply still better...for now...
. That cannot be good...On top of that, this morning I was thinking "wow, these new caps are burning in nicely, this sounds GOOD" but when I looked again I noticed I was listening to my Primare D20, not the Shigaclone... (I had forgotton I started listening to a CD in the Shiga that I later swapped to the D20 when the Shiga started skipping on that damaged disc). That was an unexpected revelation, because it means that all the time I was thinking that the Shiga+Micromega DAC1 was at least as good as the D20, but in the end this turned out to be the result of wishful thinking! I'm not saying that the combo is bad but the D20 is simply still better...for now...
jitter said:
hmmm - i had a similar experience after swapping the cap's ... but i will not revert... to much problems to do that and i can't put smd parts on the board any more .... i am affraid that to much work on the pcb of the transport will destroy it eventually ... one mistake is enough...
i also discovered that one of the two brass stands were not tight enough.... probably this might also be the reason for my skipping problem.....
Hallo,
I have chances all the things on the board like the Okapi PDF file and now I will separate the 5 volt power supply from the board and I will feed the Trichord Clock 4 also with a separate power supply, what are the things I need to do now?
I have seen some pictures here on the forum but I can’t find the right pictures anymore.
I will thank Peter Daniel and Okapi for all the good things they have post here on the forum, the sound is great from the Shigaclone I also thanks all the other people for the good thinks they post here.
Here some pictures, it is not finished.
Rudy
I have chances all the things on the board like the Okapi PDF file and now I will separate the 5 volt power supply from the board and I will feed the Trichord Clock 4 also with a separate power supply, what are the things I need to do now?
I have seen some pictures here on the forum but I can’t find the right pictures anymore.
I will thank Peter Daniel and Okapi for all the good things they have post here on the forum, the sound is great from the Shigaclone I also thanks all the other people for the good thinks they post here.
Here some pictures, it is not finished.
Rudy
Attachments
1 more picture.
Here you find more pictures: http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=76211.1475
Here you find more pictures: http://www.htforum.nl/yabbse/index.php?topic=76211.1475
Attachments
