TDA1541A Diy Pcb - "Distinction-1541 v2"

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That's what I try to say to the Vaticans' guys ! One life at the service of the TDA1541A God deserves I live in Roma Vatican and I sonorise the Sixtin Capella with a good DAC for some excellent Italian Operas to look at the Renescita fresco in a polystyren bubble chair, Yeah !

Notice, the best Italian opera singers are from North Europe or South America ! In the meantime B Gigli has not to be forgotten ! (the one who talks me aboutthe sheety Pavarotti can leave immediatly the room !)... while in this moment I listen to this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5aFB_6re3M

Ah I believe I'm four layers off topic right now !
 
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Hi Eldam and Sumotan, good to see the 1541 fan club here:) I have completed the BOM for the Pedja dac and have had the boards since early this year. I have had an extremely busy year at work and finished an amp so its the next thing to build. I do however want to build this dac, its versatile and I can try a few things. My biggest problem is what to build next. I work slow but steadily try different things. I have had a 1541 based cd player (Philips CD650) and did extensive mods to it, I know and like this chip.
 
Eldam, nice to see you again. You say "tubed LH/S tubed double crown on an AYA I base compete with the best, if not better !" What is LH/S and why not AYA II as a base. You already have one:) From memory you have been a bit reluctant to use tubes. Knowing the research you put into this hobby, I would be interested to know which tube stage you currently favor and why you don't build it.
 
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Ah, the true Silat TDA1545A's Gurus are Pedja Rogics and Thorten Loesch... we are just little padawan diyer enthusiasts from Forest Moon..

I agree - and also nice to see you here Chewbacca, last I heard you had a modeling contract with Loreal on Endor - something about new formula conditioner that was especially tailored for use with Wookies?

From a different inter-planetary system but perhaps you've stopped by to visit; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJCGHZLQQrA

My regards to Leia, absence truly does make the heart grow fonder - they were good times.

I made a cheesecake yesterday - 6 layers = no going back now, much more body and texture - a bit cheesy, but what to expect from such things?.

--

Sumotan - they would be dutch chips ?.. look fine to me !!

--

Anyone know whether DEM can be locked to WS via a synchronous multiplier? (WS x4 for fDEM).. always talk about dividing down from MCK, BCK etc, (or direct to WS ala Grundig but not that one was 4x OS.. ). I noticed JB went back to sync DEM and away from the free-running 6k8 to -15V. According to diyhifi.org, TL synch's DEM to MCK.. same with PR (or BCK but schematic indicates otherwise). But neither adjusts fDEM for sample rate input as a multiplier to WS would.

??



LH/S
 
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Hello LH/S :)

Just changed of shampoo and have now the airs like Einstein with a bikini ray in the middle, that's terrible for a wookie ! I believe maybe I will paint it in green and putt my red bath short à la Australian beach guard ! But I dunno why when I putt a feet on the beach, all the people run and yell as if they have a Donald (Dwarf) Vader* in their bathroom ! Time to use hot wax maybe !

6 layers cheese cake, should sound fat , but i have even more fat and creamy ( Thousand layers french cake aka Millefeuille (contraction of "mille feuilles"), it's not about precision but "Groumpf & Slurp" : http://www.cooking-chef.fr/espace-recettes/desserts-entremets-gateaux/millefeuille )

Hi Luke :): well two reasons : I pushed very far my setups on the AYA II and I have not the experience of LH/S on tubes and DHT tubes, layouts with tubes (very important!) and also the money : it's expensive to winn on quality at a certain level ! An other reason is I have also a MOSFET AMP and low efficienty speakers ! LH/S has his AYA base with all the IanCanada sets, tubed DHT outputt with carefully choosed tube as it's act as pre and Attack directly his 2A3 amps : so all DHT with carefull attention to layout, caps, powersupply, etc ! I choosed a Demning Wheel more in relation with my wallet !

But for AYA full SolidState and no IanCanada yet in inputs, ask to Jaffrie member he went very far with optimisation as well ! Different from me because I'm myself IanCanadised at the inputs ! (Crysteq clocks...which are far Better than Samsung/Seiko crystals, sorry to the OP to disagree once more with him !)

I'm on the last Douglas Self pre with a cermet pot as volume à la Pedja but still waiting the parts from Mouser ! Mine will be just with R-CORE trafo instead a normal Hammond one !

So to answer your question, you have now to build a speaker :) (asI should do myself by the way:D : Bwaslo, Weltersys synergies or xrq971' horn... money is just missing and also the times for the moment... I work but for no money unluckilly !)

*: http://www.boredpanda.com/365-photography-project-daily-life-darth-vader-pawel-kadysz/... and at W-H soon !
 
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Hi Ludwig
In honesty I really don't know. All that I know is that
the S1 sound wonderful on my tweaked AYA

BTW Luke pls build the Aya as is & tweak from there
My way is to direct Aya direct with passive pot or
whatever passive device you choose. Once your
satisfied then you can connect to a preamp of
your choice. Reason for doing this, you don't
want the pre amp to affect the sound of Aya
& misguide you in optimising its performance.
Besides it'll like you hear if changes that you
make is in the right direction.
For me it's a really tuff job cause I listen to
all kinds of music & this makes it a very slow
& long process in tweaking.
Also I'm listening via a pair of tweaked ML Odyssey
which is pretty transparent to start with so it helps
as well

Cheers
 
I was sure of that :) I recognized your style!

Hey I have been looking at the Odyssey again and was asking where I saw it the first time ???? in a bathroom, it looks like the curl air pliers heater of my first wife (Leia) ! Lol !

You know I'm jealous about it : MartinLogan | Odyssey

J. you have to try maybe a cermet P11 pot instead of the ALPS black beauty despite its interchennel modulation?! at worst with a serie Allen Bradley then without ? ("oH man, what are these terrible guys whom putt colored résistors in serie.... hey because it was better here than a Dale 55 or 60 !") ! Why not a linear one instead a logarythmic !
 
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I tried firstly a '99 chip from Taiwan but it was not so good as I expected.
Then I tried a single crown from Taiwan and it sounds much better.
Finally I tried a '98 standard A type from Taiwan and it was the best, more detailed, more balanced, the best I have listened to. Got from ECdesigns.

Using a modified OBL-11 95 db speaker the sound is really impressive. Female voices are spectacular, soundstage is wide and height.
 

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Hello Andrea,

I can recognize the Eminence Delta, but what did you take for the mid (compression driver ?) and treble unit (ribon ?)?

I prefer the standard S1 from 89 I have vs the std Taiwan 98 ! at least on my setup and AYA II for the reason I wrote but it may be my set up ! The T. 98 is more articulate but at the price of clarity and subjective dynamic as this fatiguing and soft cover sound : at the end on Classic and Jazz I found it less real and prefer the Single Crown! Maybe the fatiguing side can be optimized by a different local decoupling ! I use an AYA II with OPA 861 at output with no caps !
 
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Hello Andrea,

I can recognize the Eminence Delta, but what did you take for the mid (compression driver ?) and treble unit (ribon ?)?

I prefer the standard S1 from 89 I have vs the std Taiwan 98 ! at least on my setup and AYA II for the reason I wrote but it may be my set up ! The T. 98 is more articulate but at the price of clarity and subjective dynamic as this fatiguing and soft cover sound : at the end on Classic and Jazz I found it less real and prefer the Single Crown! Maybe the fatiguing side can be optimized by a different local decoupling ! I use an AYA II with OPA 861 at output with no caps !

Hi Eldam,

the mid is the L CAO Alnico FA8, it's an 8 inches chines full range that sounds very fine. The tweeter is the ribbon Harwood UR 2.0, the same of Aurum Cantus G2si.

I'm building this system for a friend, the sound is very balanced and never get you tired. In this setup the standard '98 from Taiwan sounds better than the S1, maybe it depends on the mix of all the components of the audio chain.
For example, in the IV stage I used a wirewound resistor from Rhopoint, that's very smooth. In the same stage I used VT rather than solid state devices, the 6N23P gray shield from 1975, that's very detailed and smooth. Then VT again in the power amp, the Psvane WE845, that's the best power DHT I have ever heard.

But the big difference I found is changing the clock of the system. I have tried many options, and each time I changed the clock the sound changed dramatically. The same thing changing the clock of the source.
I believe that after a long time tweaking the system I did reach an optimal combination.
So the standard Taiwan '98 keeps its detailed character without any harshness. With unplugged music it's so realistic, Baremboim and the Steinway grand piano at home!
 
Bravo Andrea, well done for the speaker !

I have been beginning to work on the power supplies of the clock (A123 LiPoFe4 cell, or R-core with TS7A reg)... even the wire between the reg and the clock board changes the sound (and even when it's short) !

Yep, tweaking is a long process !
 
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Hey I have been looking at the Odyssey again and was asking where I saw it the first time ???? in a bathroom, it looks like the curl air pliers heater of my first wife (Leia) ! Lol !

Just had this one snap-chatted to me from Orlando Calrissian - I could never trust that guy, had had me frozen at one time and I'm still thawing out from the ordeal. So, its true?... you and Leia go back some way?.. hmm.. Seems we have shared more than just some good music !! :) !!
 

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As Ryan pointed out, with a really good magnifying glass and good soldering equipment it is possible to solder these capacitors. But it's not easy. I've been slowly populating my board, so I'm very sympathetic to those who find soldering the small parts a challenge. So I figured out a work around that makes this much easier for C21 C27 C30 and C35. The work around takes advantage of the fact that each of these capacitors is in parallel with a physically larger 100 ohm resistor (R22, R25, R29, R33). So one can stack the resistor and capacitor on the same pads, which allows one to use much larger capacitors. I suggest ordering the 1206 size for C21 C27 C30 C35. One part I found on Digikey is C1206C470K5GACTU. Solder these parts on the pads for R22 R25 R29 R33 first and then solder the resistors on top of the caps. To make things even simpler, you can order thin film parts for R22 R25 R29 R33, which are flat and thus easier to stack on top of the capacitors. One example would be part # ERA-8AEB101V but there are many that would work.

---Gary

Great suggestion Gary, hopefully that can help a few people out.
 
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