TDA1541A Diy Pcb - "Distinction-1541 v2"

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Sorry CFT im lost is there a need to use Ian's I2S to PCM board
or are you refering to another source rather then the SD Trans ?
Btw what sort of cables is best to connect PCM from Sd trans to
Aya & is it sensitive to lenght ? Yes I've read Pedjas blog on that
but forgot all about it & also wasn't aware of this PCM mode of
connection.

Thanks from for the advice


Jaffrie, of course you know it but Under the name : "simultaneous mode" (pin 26&27 shorted instead of the 27&28) : RTFM !

I asked uf-l s plugs and this 4° plug on the Distinction V1 and asked to Pedja via CFT if it was possible to make the AYA II 2014 simultaneous mode ok (with a plug to strap from I2S to PCM in relation to the choice of the mode !)... SO you have this possibility with the AYA II 2014 and AYA II DS edition !

We talked about PCM many times via PM !

CFT already uses it via his Audial Model S and could try the SD Trans on his own AYA II 2014... he never populated (...yet ;) ! ... because he has already a Model S and a lot of toys :) to play with! )
 
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What you missed the Pulsar Clock 5% discount Black Friday ! LOL ! iT WAS - 35 EUROS ! http://www.pulsarclock.com/Clock.html

I have no problem of harchness or whatever with the CCHD-957s... maybe its power supply on your setup ? You should post about it on Ian's Thread !

You outputted your AYA with the SPIDF board from Ian nstead pure I2S or PCM iirc ! Maybe the culpritt is post jitter after the I2S when coming back to multiplex coaxial spidf signal or something with the many power supplies between the clock and this last spidf board !

Mine is powered with TS7A from Mravica member via the OSCON SPF on the clock board II (the 3 pins area of the Ian TS7A reg is shorted as in the manual as I use the common supply plug of the clock board !

Well I believe the sc cut Crystal Laptech and ANdrea efforts worths it but had no time yet to try it myself !

But did you use the good caps topology on AYA II with the IanCanada stuffs as inputts ;)

Bryan tested a japoneese Crystal, why not follow his topology after all (here NDK, AVX, are certainly even as good but certainly not a good as the Crysteq 957... and after you fall in more expensive topology : oven with Laptech (in the meantime ANdrea doesn't earn money on it and just friendly share ; The Pulsar are sorted and measured at 1 Hz with stunning perf which explain their cost : read LH/S inputs on this !nThat's what have IanCanada to beat the Crysteq and I think he knows about high speed electronic design)
 
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Andrea, Eldam, which crystal or oscillator you would recommend which I wouldn't have to sell my house for? Having Crystek 45 and 49, but I am not really happy with them.

Cheers Ernst

If you'll decide to sell your house you could buy the MSB Femto 33
The DAC V Pricing - MSB Technology

You can find here some comparisons
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-128.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-130.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-144.html

I bet the Crystek uses a tiny crappy crystal, difficult to reach low phase noise with it.
As you can read in the posted link I have compared the CCHD-957 with other designs and it was the worst of the listening session.
 
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Joined 2007
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If you'll decide to sell your house you could buy the MSB Femto 33
The DAC V Pricing - MSB Technology

You can find here some comparisons
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-128.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-130.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...hase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator-144.html



I bet the Crystek uses a tiny crappy crystal, difficult to reach low phase noise with it.
As you can read in the posted link I have compared the CCHD-957 with other designs and it was the worst of the listening session.


Andrea, since I do not sell my house ;-) my question is, if I may add my name to your GB? Is the current one still open?

Cheers Ernst
 
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Member
Joined 2007
Paid Member
What you missed the Pulsar Clock 5% discount Black Friday ! LOL ! iT WAS - 35 EUROS ! Pulsar Clock & Power

I have no problem of harchness or whatever with the CCHD-957s... maybe its power supply on your setup ? You should post about it on Ian's Thread !

You outputted your AYA with the SPIDF board from Ian nstead pure I2S or PCM iirc ! Maybe the culpritt is post jitter after the I2S when coming back to multiplex coaxial spidf signal or something with the many power supplies between the clock and this last spidf board !

Mine is powered with TS7A from Mravica member via the OSCON SPF on the clock board II (the 3 pins area of the Ian TS7A reg is shorted as in the manual as I use the common supply plug of the clock board !

Well I believe the sc cut Crystal Laptech and ANdrea efforts worths it but had no time yet to try it myself !

But did you use the good caps topology on AYA II with the IanCanada stuffs as inputts ;)

Bryan tested a japoneese Crystal, why not follow his topology after all (here NDK, AVX, are certainly even as good but certainly not a good as the Crysteq 957... and after you fall in more expensive topology : oven with Laptech (in the meantime ANdrea doesn't earn money on it and just friendly share ; The Pulsar are sorted and measured at 1 Hz with stunning perf which explain their cost : read LH/S inputs on this !nThat's what have IanCanada to beat the Crysteq and I think he knows about high speed electronic design)

Eldam,

my setup is JMLabs XMOS, IAN complete incl. PCM board and Crysteq Oscillators. (The spdif board is ony used for spdif input, not for output). PSU are 2 SALAS shunts for IAN, using also IAN's TS7A. For XMOS I have 2 TS7A from Mravica. For my AYA DAC I do use a lot of you cap proposals and a 1998 Taiwan TDA1541. So it is a pretty straight forward thing which most time sound very very good. But I am convinced, there is still room in terms of smoothness, since I do have a massivly tweaked monica/MOJO Dac, which does not sound better overall, but sound is smoother.

Btw, damn, I missed it ;-)

Many thanks and regards

Ernst
 
Sounds good Cheung, plenty of PCBs left.

sumotan, yes you're right, IV on the PCB is desirable, its definitely a compromise I accepted to give more versatility to diyers who have their own homebrew IV stages. But perhaps in the future I will make another PCB with more features. First I must complete jameshillj's DAC setup (sorry James, i've been preoccupied), then will start a new PCB for the SEN passive IV, if all goes well... In the mix I also want to assemble a Clone Note by Uriah Dailey, and build one of Andreas clocks... I think I need to quit my job and do DIY full time!

Cheers
 
Eldam,

my setup is JMLabs XMOS, IAN complete incl. PCM board and Crysteq Oscillators. (The spdif board is ony used for spdif input, not for output). PSU are 2 SALAS shunts for IAN, using also IAN's TS7A. For XMOS I have 2 TS7A from Mravica. For my AYA DAC I do use a lot of you cap proposals and a 1998 Taiwan TDA1541. So it is a pretty straight forward thing which most time sound very very good. But I am convinced, there is still room in terms of smoothness, since I do have a massivly tweaked monica/MOJO Dac, which does not sound better overall, but sound is smoother.

Btw, damn, I missed it ;-)

Many thanks and regards

Ernst

hummm we should fix that by PM, my setup is not ok for Taiwan 98 chip, I realize it lately, but if you had a normal one or a S1, stay with the AYA mod ! Irrc you went close on cap choices but without follow it exactly...unluckilly there are more difference than you think between two choices as a complete good topology of caps choice adds a lot...ask Jaffrie !
 
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Hello,

i just wanted to report success on soldering those 0603 caps

i managed to do it with solder paste and no magnifying glass.

where can John Brown be found? i am interested to buy one of the Taiwan chips.

@rayan, in your experience what is the best mode to use this build i would like to know witch resistor to solder R17-R19.

and one more stupid question relating to D3 and D4, i have no clue where to solder anode and cathode on the board.

thanks in advance for all the help
 
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This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.