@BogdanS : No problem. The Amanero is already mounted on the StationPi Pro and working. It gives the same distortion as the internal I2S DAC.
@iancanada : I would be grateful for some advice before changing anything. Is removing the ShieldPi Pro worth a try?
@iancanada : I would be grateful for some advice before changing anything. Is removing the ShieldPi Pro worth a try?
@bodiebill, I am sorry you are struggling to resolve the distortion problem. I know the frustration, failing to make things work many times, and having to go back and revisit everything step by step until the problem is solved. Unfortunately, this is not a DIY kit meant to be built from A to Z in one specific way. We are building our DIY stacks from blocks that everyone can connect in their own combination, which work in different Input/Output setups.
Therefore, one can not expect a systematic debugging/support service from Ian; there are too many variables.
I think the right way to attempt solving your problem is the method mentioned on this forum many times before: Start with the most basic setup, ensure it works correctly, then add on top of it, test, and repeat. In such a granular step-based approach, it will be easier to diagnose if something does not work correctly. Do all of this before you mount the final setup in a case...
Of course, in your current situation, you could start with a simple step and remove the ShieldPi Pro to see if it helps. Please don't wait for someone to tell you if it is worth a try. This is DIY. Just do it. It will change one parameter, and you will see if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
Therefore, one can not expect a systematic debugging/support service from Ian; there are too many variables.
I think the right way to attempt solving your problem is the method mentioned on this forum many times before: Start with the most basic setup, ensure it works correctly, then add on top of it, test, and repeat. In such a granular step-based approach, it will be easier to diagnose if something does not work correctly. Do all of this before you mount the final setup in a case...
Of course, in your current situation, you could start with a simple step and remove the ShieldPi Pro to see if it helps. Please don't wait for someone to tell you if it is worth a try. This is DIY. Just do it. It will change one parameter, and you will see if it makes a difference.
Good luck!
@bodiebill
Sorry about the issue.
I have tested for many times with the same setups as yours trying to duplicate your issue. But I don't have any problem even play 384KHz on my DACs.
If you think any of my boards could have issues, for example the FifoPiQ7 or the HdmiPiPro, you can sent them back to me. I'll do a full test and if there is any issue I'll fix it.
If you can post the pictures of your system showing the configurations and connections, other community members and I may I have more ideas.
BTW, did you try different HDMI cables? I've noticed that some of the cables or connectors may have connection issues sometimes.
Regards,
Ian
I can tell you I had issues with the station pi pro and usb with the ddc or receiver pi pro.... I ditched the station pi and have had no issues. I don't think the station pi is a good idea at all anymore. Get the pi in its own enclosure away from the stack and too many jumper issues with the station pi and usb for me.
Anyone wants to buy a station pi pro or receiver pi pro for cheap pm me.
My setup sounds pretty amazing.... Video during testing.... Using streamer and his dac tons of ultracapitors.... 10 big boys 4 325F
Fifoq7
Receiver pi ddc
SC pure 45/49
Dual mono mk2 dac
The i/v xlr board... The more expensive one forget model number
5 ucpure mkiii
5 uc balancer kits
Amanero USB board if u want usb input
Monitor pi pro
Raspberry pi 5 (better sound tested myself vs 4b)
Audiolinux for software on the raspberry pi is very best, gentooplayer #2 for software.
Diretta protocol for server to streamer.
Custom toroidal transformer from toroidy audio supreme grade 120v in or 220v pending ur country and then 3 12v windings and 2 9v windings
You said the best.
Thanks for your educational post. It is surely appreciated by this first time DIY-er. I guess I will try the modular/from-scratch approach you suggest when I find the time.
Thanks Ian, I appreciate your offer! I will first try to identify the root cause by starting again from scratch and will let you know the outcome.
I did try several HDMI cables; they all work well in the other setups mentioned.
Pictures will follow when I have uncased the stack...
@iancanada
Today I reduced my setup to the minimal possible by omitting the StationPi Pro and the ShieldPro, so now it is just RPi4 + FifoPi Q7 + HdmiPi Pro, powered with PurePi II + UcConditioner II 3.3V. The RPi4 is fed from the Q7's J3. I tried with the SC-Pure as well as stock clocks. Here is a pic:
In this reduced setup the issue is unchanged and the static noise remains on all PCM above PCM96. The distortion is often quite subtle and better perceived on softer/sparser tracks (quiet piano music). There can be a soft continuous hiss, and this is intensified by instrument attacks.
I know that @kiwibirch has exactly the same issue, and is using the same DAC (Leaf Audio CMD27). Although this DAC adheres to the PS Audio I2S format and here works fine up to DSD512 with all my other streamers (Afterdark Rosanna and Rose RS130) and the same I2S cable, this fact makes it unlikely that there is something wrong with either my Q7 or HdmiPi Pro -- as the same should then apply to @kiwibirch .
So I think it would be wise to first check with another DAC to rule out a possible compatibility problem between the Leaf and the HdmiPI Pro. Alas, I have no other DAC with I2S input available.
Or I could try a DDC that takes I2S and outputs spdif to test this? Any recommendation that is proven to work with HdmiPi Pro and does not break the bank?
Today I reduced my setup to the minimal possible by omitting the StationPi Pro and the ShieldPro, so now it is just RPi4 + FifoPi Q7 + HdmiPi Pro, powered with PurePi II + UcConditioner II 3.3V. The RPi4 is fed from the Q7's J3. I tried with the SC-Pure as well as stock clocks. Here is a pic:
In this reduced setup the issue is unchanged and the static noise remains on all PCM above PCM96. The distortion is often quite subtle and better perceived on softer/sparser tracks (quiet piano music). There can be a soft continuous hiss, and this is intensified by instrument attacks.
I know that @kiwibirch has exactly the same issue, and is using the same DAC (Leaf Audio CMD27). Although this DAC adheres to the PS Audio I2S format and here works fine up to DSD512 with all my other streamers (Afterdark Rosanna and Rose RS130) and the same I2S cable, this fact makes it unlikely that there is something wrong with either my Q7 or HdmiPi Pro -- as the same should then apply to @kiwibirch .
So I think it would be wise to first check with another DAC to rule out a possible compatibility problem between the Leaf and the HdmiPI Pro. Alas, I have no other DAC with I2S input available.
Or I could try a DDC that takes I2S and outputs spdif to test this? Any recommendation that is proven to work with HdmiPi Pro and does not break the bank?
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I would like to ask for advice.
I decided to try a streamer project with Ian's modules. My first idea was to use (i) TRANSPORTPI AES (ii) FIFOPI Q7 (iii) MONITORPI PRO
I am 'new' to 'streamers' and find the terminology and combinations a challenge despite reading many pages in this thread and from Ian's 'read me' file and various pdfs on his site.
My dac is a first generation Yggdrasil. To begin with the 'streamer' would primarily play files from my mac. The Yggdrasil has several inputs: usb, spdif, bnc, optical, aes.
Question 1:
Will the above set up with Transportpi aes 'work' with the yggdrasil?
The reason for the question is:
Documentation from Ian's site states "Any kinds of SYNC mode DACs..... should work greatly with FifoPi Q7. However, by principle, any master clock mode DACs, such as a Hifiberry DAC+, have no way work with any re-clockers including the FifoPi Q7, FifoPiQ3 and FifoPi Q7."
From the Schiit site I got the following guidance:
"The first-generation Yggdrasil doesn't have a built-in sync mode, so it may not be directly compatible with a digital streamer that requires sync mode. However, you can still connect the streamer to the Yggdrasil using other digital inputs like USB, coaxial, or optical. Just make sure to select the appropriate input on the Yggdrasil and you should be good to go!"
What puzzles me is why 'other digital inputs' would by-pass the 'sync mode' issue.
Question 2:
What would I have to add to the above set up of (i) TRANSPORTPI AES (ii) FIFOPI Q7 (iii) MONITORPI PRO, to go 'Pi-less'? Would it be the 'receiverpipro/proII'?
The reason for the question is:
In several posts there are references to 'Pi-less' set ups and 'DDC'. If I understood correctly, the Raspberry Pi itself generates electronic smog which one then tries to counteract with various shielding and power supply upgrades. I would probably do powersupply upgrades in the future anyway, but my reasoning is: if it's possible to have less electronic smog that is worthwhile in any case. If a 'pi-less' set up allows me to play my current music collection from my mac then that is fine.
Question 3:
Do I have to use a Raspberry Pi if I want to connect to the 'streamer' with an ethernet cable?
Many thanks in advance and sorry for the very basic questions.
Alan
I decided to try a streamer project with Ian's modules. My first idea was to use (i) TRANSPORTPI AES (ii) FIFOPI Q7 (iii) MONITORPI PRO
I am 'new' to 'streamers' and find the terminology and combinations a challenge despite reading many pages in this thread and from Ian's 'read me' file and various pdfs on his site.
My dac is a first generation Yggdrasil. To begin with the 'streamer' would primarily play files from my mac. The Yggdrasil has several inputs: usb, spdif, bnc, optical, aes.
Question 1:
Will the above set up with Transportpi aes 'work' with the yggdrasil?
The reason for the question is:
Documentation from Ian's site states "Any kinds of SYNC mode DACs..... should work greatly with FifoPi Q7. However, by principle, any master clock mode DACs, such as a Hifiberry DAC+, have no way work with any re-clockers including the FifoPi Q7, FifoPiQ3 and FifoPi Q7."
From the Schiit site I got the following guidance:
"The first-generation Yggdrasil doesn't have a built-in sync mode, so it may not be directly compatible with a digital streamer that requires sync mode. However, you can still connect the streamer to the Yggdrasil using other digital inputs like USB, coaxial, or optical. Just make sure to select the appropriate input on the Yggdrasil and you should be good to go!"
What puzzles me is why 'other digital inputs' would by-pass the 'sync mode' issue.
Question 2:
What would I have to add to the above set up of (i) TRANSPORTPI AES (ii) FIFOPI Q7 (iii) MONITORPI PRO, to go 'Pi-less'? Would it be the 'receiverpipro/proII'?
The reason for the question is:
In several posts there are references to 'Pi-less' set ups and 'DDC'. If I understood correctly, the Raspberry Pi itself generates electronic smog which one then tries to counteract with various shielding and power supply upgrades. I would probably do powersupply upgrades in the future anyway, but my reasoning is: if it's possible to have less electronic smog that is worthwhile in any case. If a 'pi-less' set up allows me to play my current music collection from my mac then that is fine.
Question 3:
Do I have to use a Raspberry Pi if I want to connect to the 'streamer' with an ethernet cable?
Many thanks in advance and sorry for the very basic questions.
Alan
Subarinio
Do not waste your time. I also have a YGGY OG. The Yggy reclocks any signal it receives so no matter how good the signal is from the streamer is it will not be any better than the YGGY's internal clock. I have tried just a Raspberry PI 4b using Volumio, a PI2AES 2.0 - PRO AUDIO SHIELD with PI 4b and Ion Canada streamer stack and hear very little difference. My PI was $80. The stack has hit around $1400 with almost no improvement. The only dac this forum says will work is a Holo Spring 3. You can shut off the internal clock with it. The only other option is building a streamer + the dac and not use the YGGY. I am at this crossroad and might just give up. I wish I knew most dacs will not benefit from a high end streamer. At least my YGGY and the Denifraps will not work. Good Luck.Hello,
I never heard about all these dacs that don't seem to work together with the Canadian boards
Mine so far also not working so i bought a few new boards but i dont have a lot of faith in it because this thread is full of people with things no working.
After a long holiday I will give it a try with the new boards.
Happily i did not go for the clocks that appear to need the assistance of a tie wrap to stop them from dislocating. No matter how good the quality of the tie rap if you are a serious audiophile, just spending serious cash on clocks does not make you one,you should solve the issue in a decent way. It is like buying the best quality tyres for your personal transport and not inflating them according to the information given by the manufacturer.
No need to bragg about the truckload of supercaps you are using if one day you will see one your clocks wandering around your listening room just like i just saw this tiny animal inside a Vietnamese coffeebar, you are doing something wrong. It is not something that could be improved, if your clocks are not making a more than decent connection to the boards i would call it a mistake . If you look at how much attention is given to certain things this should be taken care of too.
The DDDAC will have a serious update spring, late spring early summer so that will be the next step. Good to have " companies" around that will take time to develop their creatures properly without spitting out updates every few months.
Greetings Eduard
I never heard about all these dacs that don't seem to work together with the Canadian boards
Mine so far also not working so i bought a few new boards but i dont have a lot of faith in it because this thread is full of people with things no working.
After a long holiday I will give it a try with the new boards.
Happily i did not go for the clocks that appear to need the assistance of a tie wrap to stop them from dislocating. No matter how good the quality of the tie rap if you are a serious audiophile, just spending serious cash on clocks does not make you one,you should solve the issue in a decent way. It is like buying the best quality tyres for your personal transport and not inflating them according to the information given by the manufacturer.
No need to bragg about the truckload of supercaps you are using if one day you will see one your clocks wandering around your listening room just like i just saw this tiny animal inside a Vietnamese coffeebar, you are doing something wrong. It is not something that could be improved, if your clocks are not making a more than decent connection to the boards i would call it a mistake . If you look at how much attention is given to certain things this should be taken care of too.
The DDDAC will have a serious update spring, late spring early summer so that will be the next step. Good to have " companies" around that will take time to develop their creatures properly without spitting out updates every few months.
Greetings Eduard
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Thanks, I have decided to take your advice and have moved the transformers into a separate enclosure.
Yes , they do apparently , but i understand that you can use low pass filters to reduce this, noise. I am not an EE so to be honest I have absolutely no idea how this all works 
, but I purchased this filter , hoping that it may help reduce signal noise https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/631-FN9290-4-06 , I have no Idea if it will make a difference, but that's half the fun.
, but I purchased this filter , hoping that it may help reduce signal noise https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/631-FN9290-4-06 , I have no Idea if it will make a difference, but that's half the fun.Anyone that can help me to build a streamer-DDC-DAC in 1 without too much soldering? or maybe none. I wonder if I could build 1 stack on top of the PurePi II. That would be ideal. I only need USB-in for the DDC.
@JMD3254
This is a rather intesting point. And i Thank you for that. I have à pair a dynaudio focus 20 XD , a full digital bookshelf speakers, with a coax spdif input only.
Ian approach seems intéresting but it seems to me that i need to find a good enough source for this input as I gués there is a recklocking mechanism indice.
I guess a transportpi digi with a purepi 2 power supply might be a good enough one.
Could a recieverpi pro 2 +purepi+ transportpi digi be used as a piless ddc ?
This is a rather intesting point. And i Thank you for that. I have à pair a dynaudio focus 20 XD , a full digital bookshelf speakers, with a coax spdif input only.
Ian approach seems intéresting but it seems to me that i need to find a good enough source for this input as I gués there is a recklocking mechanism indice.
I guess a transportpi digi with a purepi 2 power supply might be a good enough one.
Could a recieverpi pro 2 +purepi+ transportpi digi be used as a piless ddc ?
If you want a DDC and DAC all-in-one solution, you can install a HdmiPiPro II or a TransportPi AES under the DAC PCB in the #94B configuration
https://iancanada.ca/products/flags...citor-and-battery-psus?variant=47628835389740
