I' reporting back here, as the problem is not solved but is not a problem anymore (sorry, but I had to write that).
If I power both LinearPis at the same time, they light up and deliver voltage as expected. Only if I turn them on with their on/off switches one after the other the unexpected behaviour occurs consitently.
@iancanada :looks like a minor bug or (as I suggested above) some kind of over-current protection?
My question to the community:
I've set the goal to mount my entire project in a 19' enclosure and therefore place is restricted:
If there is only space for 2 UcConditionerMkII (5V): What would you power with those for best results?
RasPi (dirty side) and FifoPi, DAC (clean side), or the opa861 (2x)?
My intuition tells me opa861, as this is where amplification takes place, but I might be (most certainly am) wrong. Sugestions?
Hello,
Finally somebody again who clearly says taking care of vibrations is a worthwhile investment.
Why people keep investing in such expensive clocks and then just consider every possible investment useless.
Buying yet another board, adding more coke cans things that are made to impress ok drain your wallet but just some elementary things that can be done for the price of an average fastfood meal should not even be tried?
We're only in it for the money pops up in my mind.
Greetings Eduard
Finally somebody again who clearly says taking care of vibrations is a worthwhile investment.
Why people keep investing in such expensive clocks and then just consider every possible investment useless.
Buying yet another board, adding more coke cans things that are made to impress ok drain your wallet but just some elementary things that can be done for the price of an average fastfood meal should not even be tried?
We're only in it for the money pops up in my mind.
Greetings Eduard
Nice build Spacejack, glad to hear you're able and willing to tweak it further.
Some more tips for you to consider:
1. Keep all digital cables away from any other cabling, ideally at least 3-4 cm.
2. What are you using below the wooden base? I'd suggest some effective decoupling material, either Moongels (but many, probably 4 in each corner for the actual weight) or something like Booster Fluidum from Audio Engineers.
3. Glass fuses really suck, put there at least some ceramic one and sound check for the orientation. If wanting something even better, I can send you some tips to really impressive fuses I found.
4. And Most importantly- Replace the silly yellow LAN cable there. I consider those cables second most important overall in my setup, as I've found they have a profound effect on the resulting sound.
My recommendation is to go for a solid core 22AWG, ideally crimped with ordinary straight plugs (not those fancy with PCB, as they tend to add some "digitalis" edginess..).
Fingers crossed and keep informing us on your progress 🤞
Thank you for this tip, I am going to try removing my jumpers on my VCCA rail and see if anything. I have currently a 2 3400F Eaton Ucpure on my dual mono mkII dac and 4 3400F Eaton cap on the Fifoq7. I am moving everything off my big test board into this native housing. Trying to find time to do all of this!
I also changed my mind, I had a bunch of aluminum conduit I was going to use for all the wires form the Toridy transformer and between everything, but instead I am going to run them all individually through copper piping that is grounded. I know this isn't pure copper, but it has better conductivity that does aluminum conduit I was going to use and ground.
I put sorbothane 1/8' under my SC-pure clock and then held it into its socket tighetly with a simple small zip tie around the SC-pure and mounting bracket. This isn't ideal as it more likely transmits any vibration from the board into the clock, however the boards are on self made "constrained layer dampening" using wood, granite, and sorbothane so the entire thing is already very very very low in vibrational energy. I recommend sorbothane over anything, it is the very best vibrational material available. Here is a post I posted on audio-circle last year after my discovery of how good sorbothane is, its worth the read if you are serious about vibrations: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=183023.0
You grounding everything is good. I ground my entire system together. I put in a dedicated copper ground rod that 2awg copper into a large pure copper bus bar that I ran cabels from in a true star ground configuration, including the pi's usb port. I also have 2 3400F eaton caps on this dedicated ground system, connected only at the negative terminal, giving an insane low ESR path to ground. Everything you can measure with a simple multimeter the effect of ground and what has a high ground potential. My star grounding system has multiple volts lower potential than my 8awg dedicated lines do that run to my breaker box (that I installed new, large 150amp box and I put a dedicated rod onto that box as well....the dedicated ground is such a huge improvement.....adding the ultracaps to the ground also made a huge improvement in sound.)
Interesting. What is new compared to HDMI PRO mk I?
Please tell me there is an idolator in there...(although definitely doesn't look like it.)
we NEED DDC with an isolatior AFTER USB input and PRIOR to its i2s output at the GPIO to make it MUCH EASIER to fix all the isolation issues with the rpi streamer. I power my pi with one Ucconditioner and the 5V streamer stack as I said before with a different Ucconditioner and my usb cable I lifted the pi's side ground (I have a Lush^3 USB cable, can't recommend it enough its absolutely end game and perfect for tweakers because the shields connected and orientation absolutely makes a sound difference.) I keep the ground on the DDC side. This isolates the grounds at least from the pi to the streamer stack, but there is not isolation between the data signals (This ground lift does make a difference, I do not put the pi on my star ground, but home ground so there is no ground connection there.)
You can test this take a cheap usb cable, splice it open, find continuity of one of the wires and the pi's usb end's metal connection that goes into the usb port and then cut that wire. The ground on the pi will be disconnected, but there on the streamer side for anyone using USB. Listen before and after the modification to see how lifting the ground on the pi is important. As long as your ddc or receiver pi don't share one 5V this will help. Or buy a Lush^3 usb, lol.
we NEED DDC with an isolatior AFTER USB input and PRIOR to its i2s output at the GPIO to make it MUCH EASIER to fix all the isolation issues with the rpi streamer. I power my pi with one Ucconditioner and the 5V streamer stack as I said before with a different Ucconditioner and my usb cable I lifted the pi's side ground (I have a Lush^3 USB cable, can't recommend it enough its absolutely end game and perfect for tweakers because the shields connected and orientation absolutely makes a sound difference.) I keep the ground on the DDC side. This isolates the grounds at least from the pi to the streamer stack, but there is not isolation between the data signals (This ground lift does make a difference, I do not put the pi on my star ground, but home ground so there is no ground connection there.)
You can test this take a cheap usb cable, splice it open, find continuity of one of the wires and the pi's usb end's metal connection that goes into the usb port and then cut that wire. The ground on the pi will be disconnected, but there on the streamer side for anyone using USB. Listen before and after the modification to see how lifting the ground on the pi is important. As long as your ddc or receiver pi don't share one 5V this will help. Or buy a Lush^3 usb, lol.
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So after writing to Amanero support, I have received the information from Domenico that my version of Amanero CPLD - B2304 requires a version of the flashing tool that is unreleased (yet). He was kind to provide this version (update118new) and after flashing the Amanero with it I can play PCM 384 and DSD512 native from RPI/Moode.
Hope this helps others if they come across this until Amanero publishes the version that can flash both old and new CPLDs.
Thanks @WladimirMXP
Has anyone tried isolating network connection using two such devices https://www.tp-link.com/en/business-networking/omada-accessory-media-converter/mc220l/ ?
Today, I am using these turntable isolators https://www.analogueseduction.net/isolation/tonar-no-rumble-isolation-pads.html I can not say I hear any improvement. WHat are you using?
Yes, I would like to know more. You can send PM to me or share here for the benefit of others, too.
OK, interesting. I used this one as this is the only one I have without shielding and I did not want to transmit noise from the switch.
Let me get it right: do you mean a twisted pair Cat5/6 cable? Or do you suggest some other cable?? I have crimping tool so it is easy for me to build one but can you elaborate more on what you mean by "ordinary straight plugs"? Maybe a photo or link you could share?
Has anyone tried isolating network connection using two such devices https://www.tp-link.com/en/business-networking/omada-accessory-media-converter/mc220l/ ?
@Spacejack yes but they are not perfect, either. Optical isolator have their own clocks and are VERY VERY sensitive to noise. The module you use and the power source are REALLY REALLY REALLY important. They do improve sound. I would suggest the ifi Lan isolator if you don't plan to power the converter by an ultracapitor power supply. I have both and use both. They do make a difference, but should be the last step of the system.
Twisted Lan cables, apply copper foil double side conductive tape to it and ground it. I have three layers of foil on my cat8 cables with ptfe between. Each shield is isolated from each other and grounded individually. This makes a difference.
Use sorbothane.
Twisted Lan cables, apply copper foil double side conductive tape to it and ground it. I have three layers of foil on my cat8 cables with ptfe between. Each shield is isolated from each other and grounded individually. This makes a difference.
Use sorbothane.
@iancanada with receiverpi ddc + fifopiq3 + monitorpi pro is it still possible to change the delay of the music stream?
it was said some time ago that standard delay is set to 0,7 seconds or so, and would just like to make sure this could be altered to let's say 0,2 seconds?
thanks a lot in advance
it was said some time ago that standard delay is set to 0,7 seconds or so, and would just like to make sure this could be altered to let's say 0,2 seconds?
thanks a lot in advance
Thanks, @iancanada would there be an official path available to have the possibility to modify this delay time?
Update on this: SC-Pure is now installed for about 2 weeks and harshness is goneI received a SC-Pure 45 clock yesterday and installed it into my FifoPiQ7. I want to share my first impression which are a little bit mixed. There is an clear improvement in soundstage and 3D-image. I can better hear the room in the recording and there is more reverb in voices and instruments. I really like this. But on the other hand there is also some harshness, especially in voices and some instruments like violins. The standard clocks (Accusilicon) are sweeter to my ears. The SC-Pure has not the tight contact to the socket like the standard clocks have and there is a little air gap between clock and socket. But I think this is how it is intended!? I hope break in will help for the harshness thing; If break in is something which really exists (I have never had a positive break in experience before)? Or maybe there is something wrong with my copy of SC-Pure? From the clock comparsion table I would expect that SC-Pure is at least on par with Accus even for sweetnes in voices!? Or maybe my system / chain is not compatible!? I have a 49 standard clock installed in the other socket. Is this an issue? At the moment I'm not sure if I would trade in the improvements in soundstage and reverb for the sweeter voices and musicality of the standard clocks.
My system: RPI powered via LinearPi and UCC, FifoPi Q7 powered via LifePo4Mini and UCC, 4 stack DDDAC with good power supply.
OK, sometimes I can hear a little little grain in some female voices, but this may also be related to bad recording. It sounds unbelievable good, much better than standard clocks. I have installed damping pads two days after my first post. This gave some improvement, but actually the biggest change came in the last view days. And maybe there is still improvements coming, who knows.So my overall burn in experience counter has to be increased to 1
. Some will now argue that this may be some kind of psychoacoustic effect but I know my Hifi system very good and the difference is so obvious. Great Job Ian!
@michl2604 please, cand you give some details about what did you use, and some pictures? Thank you!
I need to take a pictures first, but it is similar to the setup like suggested by WladimirMXP in post-7479102.
I have ordered this moongel and am using one layer between clock and socket and two layers above. Using a copper plate on top to hold the gel / clock sandwitch and to give some pressure from above.
I have ordered this moongel and am using one layer between clock and socket and two layers above. Using a copper plate on top to hold the gel / clock sandwitch and to give some pressure from above.
@michl2604 thank you! I wonder how this Moongel (designed for drums) is behaving on the temperatures of the electronic components. I don't know what are the working temperature of the SC-PURE clocks. And "one layer between clock and socket" - this could decrease the contact surface between the pins of the clocks and the sockets of FIFO, no?
I don't know exactly the recommended temperature for SC-Pure, but I know that Ian has offered a Oven Kit in the past to give 80°C to clocks. So I guess that a potential temperature increase issued by moongel is not a problem, but will actually help to bring the clock into a better temperature range!? The pad between the socket and the clock is no issue I think. It actually fits that good that I was wondering if it has enough contact to have an impact. It has contact, but actually, it is still a little bit to thin in my point of view. But it all depends on the type of pads you use. I'm only refering to the moongel I have linked.
