There is a USBi port inside the amplifier where you can plug an interface board between the DSP and a PC. Here is some of the Q&A questions which include details of using the Sigma Studio Design tools for modifying the EQ settings.
Probably not something for beginners at this stage but it would be perfectly possible to package this so it is a little easier. There will no doubt be some groups specifically covering this aspect of the amplifier.
3e-Audio will be releasing a manual covering the programming of the DSP in the next couple of weeks on their website. They will also be releasing a USBi interface board.
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I recently purchased my Aiyima A04 (My second Class D /or any class), TPA3251 amp along with recommended 32V5A PS block. Replaced supplied NE5532's with Genuine ones from RS components for both amps..
What I notice, is that that
1. L&R channels reversed (already confirmed in the thread)
2. When compare to my FX502S pro (TPA3250), volume level is low in Aiyima 04 (Being powerful than TPA3250). To achieve same volume, FX502- 9'o Clock, Aiyima A04 needs 10'o Clock. same speakers, same song & source.
3. After replacing OPAmps FX502 burn in 50-60hrs+, A04 1-2 hrs only.
Anybody care to explain, the difference in volume level? thanks
What I notice, is that that
1. L&R channels reversed (already confirmed in the thread)
2. When compare to my FX502S pro (TPA3250), volume level is low in Aiyima 04 (Being powerful than TPA3250). To achieve same volume, FX502- 9'o Clock, Aiyima A04 needs 10'o Clock. same speakers, same song & source.
3. After replacing OPAmps FX502 burn in 50-60hrs+, A04 1-2 hrs only.
Anybody care to explain, the difference in volume level? thanks
Could be something as simple as the volume pots being different resistances, or just that they are different amps.
Both amplifiers have an Op-Amp before the main TPA325x chip so these could easily be set to run at different levels of gain depending on the designer.
UPDATE.
I know some of you will be interested to know what I think of this unit after a couple of days playing :-
Day 1
Whereas the Aiyima A04 seemed to benefit greatly from upgrading the Op-Amps the 3e-Audio seems to be very good straight out of the box ! It is really difficult to do a straight A-B test as I have to replug all the components.
For the RCA input signals the sound quality is good but I have not had it long enough to really test it with some good quality sources. The problem with all these amplifiers is feeding them with a good source in the first instance !!
The Bluetooth on the other hand seems to be much better than my previous experiences and I don’t think I can hear any difference between the RCA inputs and a good Bluetooth source.
Everything on this amplifier goes through the on-board DAC and/or ADC converters so maybe a digital source actually has less processing ! I don’t think there is any need or benefit to play with Op-Amps. All the components are of good quality and selected for their audio performance.
I am beginning to think that the Op-Amps originally provided in the Aiyima products might not be original genuine parts as the difference when upgraded was really quite significant. I haven’t tried replacing with genuine NE5532 chips as I don’t have any, but according to lots of people these should also sound pretty good and there are other areas of the Aiyima products that probably make a bigger difference to the sound such as the Output filter and potentially signal capacitors.
The 3e-Audio All-in-One amplifier is not made for upgrading the physical components and I wouldn’t even try with this model. What it does provide is a fully integrated amplifier with some nice features - especially the Bluetooth implementation and the possibility for those who are a bit more technical to upload different EQ profiles for speaker or room correction.
I would be more interested to compare this to the Breeze Audio product which offers similar features ie, Bluetooth (but not so good spec) and an integrated power supply. The Breeze product is more expensive, has some potential safety issues and no DSP although it does offer tone controls !!
Day 2
I do not have any equipment to do any technical measurements - Only my ears !!
I only have some fairly basic KEF UniQ Q15 Speakers so not at the audiophile end of the spectrum !! I have only had the amp a couple of days and still playing with the set up and preferred sources.
First, I can confirm the the Left and Right Channels are implemented to right way round unlike the Aiyima Amplifiers where they appear to be reversed !!
I mainly use an Apple Mac Mini 2014 as my music source either directly to RCA input, through an Airport Express to RCA input or now using the Bluetooth function of the 3e-Audio amplifier and I can now confirm that it does support the Apple "Lossless ACC" profile as well as aptX and normal pedestrian Bluetooth profiles.
The support of ACC was a nice surprise as it isn't discussed in any of the documentation and I thought I was going to be stuck with aptX as the best Bluetooth option. It would so nice if this amplifier had an optical input !!
I have also connected an Amazon Eco Dot through Bluetooth but I don't think the Eco Dot has any of the higher quality profiles so the sound is not as good as the Mac Mini as a source.
So in answer to your question - To my ears it sounds rather good.
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Chris,
After Opamp Rolling to Geniune NE5532s and burn-in going on.
Next change is to upgrade the Caps (all electrolytic).
Please see the attached PDF & share your comments.
output filter & copper heat-sink upgrade is in pipeline for next.
All inputs from others also welcome. thanks.
After Opamp Rolling to Geniune NE5532s and burn-in going on.
Next change is to upgrade the Caps (all electrolytic).
Please see the attached PDF & share your comments.
output filter & copper heat-sink upgrade is in pipeline for next.
All inputs from others also welcome. thanks.
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Hi Saran
Caps changing:
Cap A - these are the caps to stabilize the rail voltage at the power chip. so here is about 1500µF is ok. you choose high capacitance but you need low (very low) ESR/ESL caps..panasonic FC - look for your needs and max high
parallel to this main decoupling caps i would use some 220nF foil caps 220n/100V TDK and solder them under the pcb - watch out you have to close the housing.
Cap B..sorry but i cant remember what for these caps are...
Cap C .yes change these caps to something better - Silmic II 10µ are a good choice. if you want ot use bi polar caps here use the green ukz muse (expensive) and not the blue Panasonic bi polar.
CAP D..decoupling the rail of the opamps. normally the caps must be as near as possible- here not fulfilled.less space here in this amp and SMD caps would be the solution. UKA are high temperatur serie of nichicon- not needed here. i guess a normal cap like ufg or a panasonic would do the same. size of 220µF is really much - look if you can find a cap with less but with better ripple capability in higher frequencies 10kHz, 100khz.
CAP E + CAP F
this is delicate because these are the input and output caps for the regulator I cant see at the pic but i guess its a LM2596. this is a buck regulator and its important the you look in the datasheet of the regulator to get the best results. these regulators are working like a mini SMPS and its important that the inductance and the capacitance at the output are correct --> normally small values the get filtered out the "regulators internal frequency".
for better selling most use big fat caps to give us the impression its fine. but here is the same as with the normal LDO regulators --> too much caps are not always the lowest noise (ripple)
i do not have this kind of regulator at my amp.
chris
Caps changing:
Cap A - these are the caps to stabilize the rail voltage at the power chip. so here is about 1500µF is ok. you choose high capacitance but you need low (very low) ESR/ESL caps..panasonic FC - look for your needs and max high
parallel to this main decoupling caps i would use some 220nF foil caps 220n/100V TDK and solder them under the pcb - watch out you have to close the housing.
Cap B..sorry but i cant remember what for these caps are...
Cap C .yes change these caps to something better - Silmic II 10µ are a good choice. if you want ot use bi polar caps here use the green ukz muse (expensive) and not the blue Panasonic bi polar.
CAP D..decoupling the rail of the opamps. normally the caps must be as near as possible- here not fulfilled.less space here in this amp and SMD caps would be the solution. UKA are high temperatur serie of nichicon- not needed here. i guess a normal cap like ufg or a panasonic would do the same. size of 220µF is really much - look if you can find a cap with less but with better ripple capability in higher frequencies 10kHz, 100khz.
CAP E + CAP F
this is delicate because these are the input and output caps for the regulator I cant see at the pic but i guess its a LM2596. this is a buck regulator and its important the you look in the datasheet of the regulator to get the best results. these regulators are working like a mini SMPS and its important that the inductance and the capacitance at the output are correct --> normally small values the get filtered out the "regulators internal frequency".
for better selling most use big fat caps to give us the impression its fine. but here is the same as with the normal LDO regulators --> too much caps are not always the lowest noise (ripple)
i do not have this kind of regulator at my amp.
chris
Chris,
thanks for the inputs!
I don't have any scopes to do any measurements. I have DMM & my ears only
.
Cap A: Sorry, I have ordered the Panasonic HD series 3300uf. (Itchy hands ). Will it be very bad in terms of SQ?
EEU-HD1V332
CAP D: 220uF is the current value came with my amp. is it different in ur amp? if so please give me the part number.
CAP E + CAP F: the planned also similiar spec, but i choose from nichicon.
Your amp also has same buk regulator setup. from your V5.
From my V3:
You have did extensive research with FX502s pro and settled with components. I trust your hearing instincts are the best and If you don't mind, i would like to follow and copycat your amp. can you please share the cap info from your amps.
thanks for the inputs!
I don't have any scopes to do any measurements. I have DMM & my ears only
.Cap A: Sorry, I have ordered the Panasonic HD series 3300uf. (Itchy hands
). Will it be very bad in terms of SQ?EEU-HD1V332
CAP D: 220uF is the current value came with my amp. is it different in ur amp? if so please give me the part number.
CAP E + CAP F: the planned also similiar spec, but i choose from nichicon.
Your amp also has same buk regulator setup. from your V5.
From my V3:
You have did extensive research with FX502s pro and settled with components. I trust your hearing instincts are the best and If you don't mind, i would like to follow and copycat your amp. can you please share the cap info from your amps.
Chris,
thanks for the inputs!
I don't have any scopes to do any measurements. I have DMM & my ears only
Cap A: Sorry, I have ordered the Panasonic HD series 3300uf. (Itchy hands
EEU-HD1V332
CAP D: 220uF is the current value came with my amp. is it different in ur amp? if so please give me the part number.
CAP E + CAP F: the planned also similiar spec, but i choose from nichicon.
Your amp also has same buk regulator setup. from your V5.
From my V3:
You have did extensive research with FX502s pro and settled with components. I trust your hearing instincts are the best and If you don't mind, i would like to follow and copycat your amp. can you please share the cap info from your amps.
Hi saran
thanks that you "believe" I have golden ears....
...forget it.i think that the change of every fake cap to a genuine one is the key.
technical measurements are important to compare with your hearing ´too.
at this amp DIY project i jumped very fast over this and i was happy.
the fx502spro is a very fine amp but please remember that this amp cannot deliver the max power as the TPA3250 chip is rated because of the tiny design of the amp --> heat dissipation, layout...etc...
If i remember right:
CAP A was at my amp original and good Rubicon YXG serie. i add a small wima under the PCB . so your new caps will not make the sound worse. you can try first to add a small foil cap under the existing cap-as i wrote- listening and then add your new cap.ok?....you will not hear any difference. i guess. your caps with 3300µF is a good cap but as i learnt after at my TPA3255 Chinese board (What is wrong with TPA3255...)from experienced members that for the power chip the capacitance is not as important as the ESR/ESL of these caps. if you get both-then its perfect....expensive caps.
CAP E+F
yes you are right that caps are 220µF rated. i use the Nichicon audio blue one 220µF/50V. to be honest this was my first project and i thought as every DIY starter that changing all caps are the key because of fake. i am not the specialist of the buck regulators and its still on my task list but at this point of the amp after more technical knowledge its nonsense to believe that a different cap do something about sound at the Voltage regulator. if the values are not on very bad edges of the recommended datasheet values you will get less noise and no oscillation.
CAP D
i used what i had in my box so any caps can do here a good job. these caps are for keep the rail of the opamp stable and clean.
as ekbrus wrote:
the change of the output filter is important too!!! so do not waste your time/money at these caps
chris
Chris,
thanks for your precious inputs.
For me also, this is my first component level DIY.
so as discussed earlier instead of Nichicon UKA 105C caps, i will settle down with UFG.
I dont have any caps with me, have to purchase all. for me mouser/digikey's courer charges are much more than the components. so I am making a list of all components to be purchased at one shot. (starting a new component inventory)
yes, inductor coils are my next in line upgrade. before making final list, will check for the coils and blue caps again.
thanks for your precious inputs.
For me also, this is my first component level DIY.
so as discussed earlier instead of Nichicon UKA 105C caps, i will settle down with UFG.
I dont have any caps with me, have to purchase all. for me mouser/digikey's courer charges are much more than the components. so I am making a list of all components to be purchased at one shot. (starting a new component inventory)
yes, inductor coils are my next in line upgrade. before making final list, will check for the coils and blue caps again.
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Chris,
For Output Filter coils, I shortlisted 4 models.
Based on the inputs from
1. #722 & #726, from TPA3250 somebody is listening?
2. from tpa3251 or Tpa3255 thread here (forgot which thread)
3. based on similiar spec from mouser
4. Space constraints in FX502s PRO.
#738 from TPA3250 somebody is listening?,
too tight, am scared that i might break something.
7447709100 Wurth Elektronik | Mouser Singapore
74439370100 Wurth Elektronik | Mouser Singapore
SER1512-103MED Coilcraft | Mouser Singapore
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/?qs=G5few1MRhWqdp4K6s%2FFPXA%3D%3D
Please select the good one or recommend, if any other better option.
For Output Filter coils, I shortlisted 4 models.
Based on the inputs from
1. #722 & #726, from TPA3250 somebody is listening?
2. from tpa3251 or Tpa3255 thread here (forgot which thread)
3. based on similiar spec from mouser
4. Space constraints in FX502s PRO.
#738 from TPA3250 somebody is listening?,
too tight, am scared that i might break something.
7447709100 Wurth Elektronik | Mouser Singapore
74439370100 Wurth Elektronik | Mouser Singapore
SER1512-103MED Coilcraft | Mouser Singapore
https://www.mouser.sg/ProductDetail/?qs=G5few1MRhWqdp4K6s%2FFPXA%3D%3D
Please select the good one or recommend, if any other better option.
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Doc,
Won't those are all too big to fit in?
One of them is what Chris fit in his Blue V3 amp.
#738 from TPA3250 somebody is listening?,
I am not that much experienced in DIY.
Thanks Chris.
Here are my speakers info.
Now testing with both my tpa3250 & tpa3251 amps.
Based on my speakers spec, 10uH is nominal to use, right?
Other set of speakers in my Home theatre system is also 6 Ohm setup.
Won't those are all too big to fit in?
One of them is what Chris fit in his Blue V3 amp.
#738 from TPA3250 somebody is listening?,
I am not that much experienced in DIY.
Trust DrMordor
He is a developer and i am just try the big fat coils
Thanks Chris.
Here are my speakers info.
Now testing with both my tpa3250 & tpa3251 amps.
Based on my speakers spec, 10uH is nominal to use, right?
Other set of speakers in my Home theatre system is also 6 Ohm setup.
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