they didn't says...
as they indicate that they did not know how high a magnetic field my woofer is generating
took a field measurement, using iphone app
10cm from magnet = 2500uT
40cm from magnet = 40uT (my integrated amp location)
40uT seem too be ok for my integrated amp which i had been using for the pass months
as they indicate that they did not know how high a magnetic field my woofer is generating
took a field measurement, using iphone app
10cm from magnet = 2500uT
40cm from magnet = 40uT (my integrated amp location)
40uT seem too be ok for my integrated amp which i had been using for the pass months
What is the result if the induction coil of the amp is affected by the driver's magnetic field?
I using Jantzen Audio silver plated wire with Teflon insulation, has similar physical characteristic to the included wires and good to work with it. I ordered a few connectors which is specified in the Fusion manual and done.
To my ears, the Jantzen sounds better, more refined (although the included is very good too) or to be more polite, it's "different", might be placebo I don't know, didn't do double blind test but a friend of mine heard as better too.
Although the Jantzen is not cheap but the price is not outrageus imo.
To my ears, the Jantzen sounds better, more refined (although the included is very good too) or to be more polite, it's "different", might be placebo I don't know, didn't do double blind test but a friend of mine heard as better too.
Although the Jantzen is not cheap but the price is not outrageus imo.
In the manual is written
------------
Filter protection
The presets (Source, Filter, Gain offset, Source lock) loaded in the FusionAmp can be password protected, ....
---------------
I will buy a pair of FA 253 and is possible that this "Filter protection" feature will be used.
I have to use REQ in my new listeningroom. Therefor it is importand for me to use:
* master gain (referred to as ‘volume’)
* startup volume (master)
* DSP Filters
Quote from the manual:
---------
* Gain and volume:
- The FusionAmp has an advanced gain structure. First of all, we distinguish a master gain (referred to as ‘volume’). This volume can be adjusted with HFD, via the remote link, or with the Hypex remote.
- To prevent the FusionAmp to power up at maximum volume, an optional startup volume (master) can be configured in HFD.
* DSP Filters:
- A threeway (FA 253) has 3x15 biquads.
--------------
Can I use these three feature in a PW protected filter environment?
------------
Filter protection
The presets (Source, Filter, Gain offset, Source lock) loaded in the FusionAmp can be password protected, ....
---------------
I will buy a pair of FA 253 and is possible that this "Filter protection" feature will be used.
I have to use REQ in my new listeningroom. Therefor it is importand for me to use:
* master gain (referred to as ‘volume’)
* startup volume (master)
* DSP Filters
Quote from the manual:
---------
* Gain and volume:
- The FusionAmp has an advanced gain structure. First of all, we distinguish a master gain (referred to as ‘volume’). This volume can be adjusted with HFD, via the remote link, or with the Hypex remote.
- To prevent the FusionAmp to power up at maximum volume, an optional startup volume (master) can be configured in HFD.
* DSP Filters:
- A threeway (FA 253) has 3x15 biquads.
--------------
Can I use these three feature in a PW protected filter environment?
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FA123s Dead
Before I pull the FA123s out of my speakers and throw them off my balcony, I wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking a solution someone is aware of. Details:
I've been using a pair of 123s for about a year and apart from a few hiccups they've worked. I use them every day.
Yesterday I swapped a full range (HF unit) for a compression driver / horn. Same impedance. Both had a protection cap.
Dialed in a new crossover and they worked for a couple of hours and then the right unit started making a very loud, periodic popping sound and then muted itself. The light on the back indicated thermal shutdown but the amp wasn't hot to the touch (I could hold my hand on it indefinitely). I tried a few things but the unit wouldn't play w/o making noise and shutting down.
I turned it off and focused on the left unit to see if there was an issue with the gain structure or something I overlooked. After a little while the same thing happened.
I haven't re-checked the right unit but the left unit won't even accept a signal. I managed to reset the device (in software), re-upload filters and even update the firmware. No change. It won't run from a SPDIF signal or an analog one. Setting the input directly or setting it to auto-discover doesn't change anything.
They turn on fine and show a green light. But, they won't hold a USB connection to my computer -- they shut off after a minute or so -- I guess going into standby.
I've tried leaving them unplugged for 15 min, etc. Nothing.
There was some gain applied but the UV meter showed output well below 0dB. Keep in mind that these are ostensibly 96dB speakers -- 90dB woofers in parallel (separate channels) and a 112dB compression driver. All drivers are 8 ohm. The FA123s should have been running at idle.
Has anyone experienced this and recovered from it? If the answer is 'ship them back' they're just going in the trash. I've wasted enough time with these units. If this were a normal amp I wouldn't care but these things are part of my f'ing speakers. Luckily I have the materials left over from construction to convert them to passive.
Anyone?
Before I pull the FA123s out of my speakers and throw them off my balcony, I wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking a solution someone is aware of. Details:
I've been using a pair of 123s for about a year and apart from a few hiccups they've worked. I use them every day.
Yesterday I swapped a full range (HF unit) for a compression driver / horn. Same impedance. Both had a protection cap.
Dialed in a new crossover and they worked for a couple of hours and then the right unit started making a very loud, periodic popping sound and then muted itself. The light on the back indicated thermal shutdown but the amp wasn't hot to the touch (I could hold my hand on it indefinitely). I tried a few things but the unit wouldn't play w/o making noise and shutting down.
I turned it off and focused on the left unit to see if there was an issue with the gain structure or something I overlooked. After a little while the same thing happened.
I haven't re-checked the right unit but the left unit won't even accept a signal. I managed to reset the device (in software), re-upload filters and even update the firmware. No change. It won't run from a SPDIF signal or an analog one. Setting the input directly or setting it to auto-discover doesn't change anything.
They turn on fine and show a green light. But, they won't hold a USB connection to my computer -- they shut off after a minute or so -- I guess going into standby.
I've tried leaving them unplugged for 15 min, etc. Nothing.
There was some gain applied but the UV meter showed output well below 0dB. Keep in mind that these are ostensibly 96dB speakers -- 90dB woofers in parallel (separate channels) and a 112dB compression driver. All drivers are 8 ohm. The FA123s should have been running at idle.
Has anyone experienced this and recovered from it? If the answer is 'ship them back' they're just going in the trash. I've wasted enough time with these units. If this were a normal amp I wouldn't care but these things are part of my f'ing speakers. Luckily I have the materials left over from construction to convert them to passive.
Anyone?
Hypex,
Had to wait until I had time to investigate again -- but yeah, your FA123s are completely dead now.
They turn on. But they won't accept an input and shut off after a minute or so. No inputs work, nothing on the VU meter. Re-flashing, resetting, whatever doesn't fix anything.
For no good reason they went into thermal protection (again, not hot to the touch) and now they're dead. Awesome engineering guys.
Not only do I have to fork out the money to replace your defective gear, I've got big Hypex-shaped holes in my speakers. Anyone wondering if they should buy anything from Hypex -- don't. Serious QC / reliability issues (this wasn't my first) and their software is a dumpster fire. When these eventually die -- likely years ahead of your drivers / cabinets -- you're going to have to rebuild or end up with a frakenspeaker.
"Servicing" the DIY market is not charity and doesn't excuse poor engineering or QC.
Had to wait until I had time to investigate again -- but yeah, your FA123s are completely dead now.
They turn on. But they won't accept an input and shut off after a minute or so. No inputs work, nothing on the VU meter. Re-flashing, resetting, whatever doesn't fix anything.
For no good reason they went into thermal protection (again, not hot to the touch) and now they're dead. Awesome engineering guys.
Not only do I have to fork out the money to replace your defective gear, I've got big Hypex-shaped holes in my speakers. Anyone wondering if they should buy anything from Hypex -- don't. Serious QC / reliability issues (this wasn't my first) and their software is a dumpster fire. When these eventually die -- likely years ahead of your drivers / cabinets -- you're going to have to rebuild or end up with a frakenspeaker.
"Servicing" the DIY market is not charity and doesn't excuse poor engineering or QC.
Last edited by a moderator:
Not sure what happened in yoir case, but I was surprised to see that my fa251 went into protection when loud impulses are played initially, until i figured that the filter setting did not copy in the software as the software described. It is quiet important to really controll all the settings incl EQ, filter etc again and again. Having been a software developer myself I agree that this is not a masterpiece and can lead to overheating the hardware...which I would not have expect either.
now, with the right setting it works like a charme in my case and is driving even 1.6 ohm nicely.
...but the way to get there needs really hoirs to learn how the software behaves, which settings lead to what and which copying bugs are in there (eq setting and filter settings are not copied and saved like you would expect).
now, with the right setting it works like a charme in my case and is driving even 1.6 ohm nicely.
...but the way to get there needs really hoirs to learn how the software behaves, which settings lead to what and which copying bugs are in there (eq setting and filter settings are not copied and saved like you would expect).
@m sorry you are having such a hard time with your amps.
My personal experience with Hypex service has been excellent, even in this crazy covid environment. IIWY I would try to solve the issue with them directly.
Judging from the seemingly higher failure rate compared to other hypex products, a warranty extension in the fusion line would be great by them (of course not in case of misuse)
My personal experience with Hypex service has been excellent, even in this crazy covid environment. IIWY I would try to solve the issue with them directly.
Judging from the seemingly higher failure rate compared to other hypex products, a warranty extension in the fusion line would be great by them (of course not in case of misuse)
Similar experience. Bought 3x plates. Used for two weeks. Unreliable master-slave connection. 1 toslink input broke after about 3 days. 1 plate exploded during turn on. I was lucky that exploded subwoofer plate and drivers weren't damaged. Another guy a couple of dozen posts ago lost a vintage driver.
All plates are laying on the shelf. I'm afraid to turn them on since I don't want to damage drivers.
I'd love to hear about someone getting warranty work.
I've emailed and messaged hypex on FB and never had a response.
I am curiuos about the folks with dying plate amps: What material/box did you house the plate amo in? Was it metal. plywood, mdf? It is a complete guess, but I wonder about the heat dissipation in the fanless models.
I've emailed and messaged hypex on FB and never had a response.
I am curiuos about the folks with dying plate amps: What material/box did you house the plate amo in? Was it metal. plywood, mdf? It is a complete guess, but I wonder about the heat dissipation in the fanless models.