That aren't SMD resistors. That are connectors.
Firstly, you asked specifically for DS and edited it later on. I find it very petty to try to change it after the fact. And secondly, they are NOT good heat sinks! That is specifically the problem, the wires conduct heat, yes. But they are insulated. That is an electrical insulation but it conducts heat very badly! That means, that by heating up the connectors, you are heating up the wires which cannot dissipate the heat and therefore melting the insulators. That's the reason it got a thermal rise limitation in the datasheet and that's exactly what has to be avoided, the connectors itself would probably still work at way over 100°C but the insulation does not, it becomes soft at much lower temperatures and are therefore much more sensitive to bends, folds etc which then leads to a short. And, with summer ambient temperatures of 30 or 40°, maybe even more base temperature because the sun shins directly onto it, with 40-50°C additional temperature rise from the current, you are very quickly in a range which is actually critical for the electrical insulation! I really didn't think I'd have to explain that to you.
Hi! I am thinking of purchasing the sure AA-AB32514 2x500watts to power a pair of satellite speakers and the sure STA516BE to power a bass driver.
Are these the highest sound quality boards that sure have.
What do you think of the sure boards versus ICE125ASX2 bang and olfusen based boards.
Thanks.
Are these the highest sound quality boards that sure have.
What do you think of the sure boards versus ICE125ASX2 bang and olfusen based boards.
Thanks.
OT:
Well, i guess it's the attitude and upper pedantic writing i've read in several posts by you all over the forum. It sometimes reads like you're trying to teach people in a strange way while telling them they're a bit "dumb". Like "I'm glad, you learned a lesson..".
I don't like that, that's all.
My post is still valid, even after editing. I see nothing wrong with it, I just want to avoid double-posts - so I just added some additional value.
I'm still having a hard time understanding how the datasheet page corresponds to the connectors I posted? Which plot is for which pin count? I'll check for myself and find out.
Btw. I guess you know that alot of mains power wires 10kV and up are calculated and used at/for 70degC? No problems with that.
Well, i guess it's the attitude and upper pedantic writing i've read in several posts by you all over the forum. It sometimes reads like you're trying to teach people in a strange way while telling them they're a bit "dumb". Like "I'm glad, you learned a lesson..".
I don't like that, that's all.
My post is still valid, even after editing. I see nothing wrong with it, I just want to avoid double-posts - so I just added some additional value.
I'm still having a hard time understanding how the datasheet page corresponds to the connectors I posted? Which plot is for which pin count? I'll check for myself and find out.
Btw. I guess you know that alot of mains power wires 10kV and up are calculated and used at/for 70degC? No problems with that.
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Instead of wasting time with exotic connectors, take something broadly available, like a 4 contact XLR. If the power is much higher, just use two of them. Problem solved. In use connectors usualy do not produce any problems, if you avoid plugging them under high load, like one side charged capacitors, one side uncharged. With music you never come near the maximum rated load, not even a the low side of a voltage converter. There is nothing in sound quality or long term stability you can gain from over dimensioned plugs. Even as some marketing hype want´s to tell you.
At last there is a simple way of making your connectors able to flow more power, increase the primary voltage like e-bikes and power tools do.
This is no theme for scientific research, just some common sense and a little bit of Ohm´s law´s.
At last there is a simple way of making your connectors able to flow more power, increase the primary voltage like e-bikes and power tools do.
This is no theme for scientific research, just some common sense and a little bit of Ohm´s law´s.
OT:
Well, i guess it's the attitude and upper pedantic writing i've read in several posts by you all over the forum. It sometimes reads like you're trying to teach people in a strange way while telling them they're a bit "dumb". Like "I'm glad, you learned a lesson..".
I don't like that, that's all.
I'm telling you why - because you are claiming wrong things like 5-10m CCA (instead of copper wire) leading to a FIRE while completely ignoring the facts despite knowing it better yourself, desperately trying to 'prove' me wrong. You are not dumb and I've said exactly the opposite numerous times already but yet you still claim everything I write to be wrong. And then the snarky tone and demanding proof for all and everything and not providing facts yourself, doubting everything I write and demanding things from others while you won't deliver it yourself. I could easily have said "that's wrong? Provide proof yourself, show me the datasheet of plug xy" like you do - but I didn't. That's going on for months but it's not you've not provoked it time and time again, what you did wasn't exactly deescalating either. I do fact check on most things but if you doubt it and demand an explanation, that automatically pushes me towards a 'teacher' position. I usually try to illuminate a thing from all sides, if I leave out something because I assume or know you know it yourself, you are claiming that's missing. If I explain it in the minutest details you already know I'm 'treating you as dumb'. Do you realize, there's no possible positive outcome for me in such a situation?
Maybe my tone wasn't appropriate and I'm sorry for that, please take my apology. But, can we please return to treating each other normally?
About the ratings of some plugs (and amps etc.): There are tons of exaggerated or plain and simple fictional ratings, especally from unprofessionally acting Chinese sellers. Like adding the rating from every pin to get a higher rating, just to sell better/more than the competition or giving power figures of an amplifier exceeding even the maximum possible current drawn etc. Who actually cares if an amp got 100W or 90? Sure, I don't like to be deceived, lied to or cheated by the seller but in the most cases the difference doesn't matter for the use. On some of these things it's really important to check facts thoroughly and that is if it will potentially get dangerous.
I found contradicting informations, the 25A being the highest by far (and only by the seller), so I broke the matter down. That is from the datasheet of the pins itself. The rating is a bit better than the one of the connectors because they are measured without the housing so they can dissipate more heat.
Yes, I know that. They use different (expensive) insulation materials (sometimes un-insulated open wires, on power poles i.e.), often stiff/non-flexible solid wires and a lot different connectors, most of the cases with fixed non-removable mounting contacts. They are usually not used at 70°C but they are planning for it (which is here not the case, so far and I'd pretty much prefer not to since even if there's no danger of a fire, burning yourself or others is still not to be desired). And, in most cases, it's AC and not DC. You can see the AC ratings being higher than the DC ones very often (I save the explanation on that).
The problem is not the temperature itself, it's how it's dealt with it and what is depending on that. The ratings of item x are in the most cases tied to circumstance y, if not on z, w, u and t too. I try to point that out because I deem it important, be it to prevent someone wasting their money and effort, be it a safety issue - not to 'teach' someone.
Hi
I guess that for your planned satellite speakers 2x500w are overrated
A good TPA3116 board is sufficient for that.
i personally have no experience about some sure boards but they are strong and sound not bad i read.
maybe it helps to give us a budget forecast or an idea what are you planning.
i tried the chinese TPA3255 board and if your are not really demand high power these boards costs about 44Euro and sounding fine after mods--(+20-30euro)
chris
Hi. Ryan,
I tested this preamp with volume control. it works very well and it is plug-in type and compatible with this PCB. The sound is quite neutral.
http://store3.sure-electronics.com/aa-aa11117
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No, they haven't, they did not change the board. I haven't bought the board myself, a friend sent me his to try it and maybe modify it. Two German Hifi forums had that topic already and came to roughly the same conclusion I did, I found the noise quite annoying on my high efficiency speakers and the loss of subtle details not acceptable. It would be more promising to build a completely new board instead (i.e. for multi-channel use) or use a preamp or a simple, medium-range pot and the input capacitor tweak.
I've tried a cheap J61 preamp board. It added some distortion (mostly harmless k2), a bit dropped at the low and high end of the spectrum (-0,3dB at 20Hz and -0,5dB at 20kHz (or the other way around? don't remember exactly)) and a bit channel difference (likely the pot) and a tiny bit of noise. It sounded a bit 'nicer', not much warmth added, some said it would improve if I'd swap to other tubes and increase the anode voltage from ~30V to 60-70V. I haven't done that yet, I will likely try it since it's not expensive. The preamp wasn't bad but it wasn't super exciting either.
I don't know what you use now, if I'd be in your place, I'd maybe go for a cheap, older preamp, you can get very good used ones for cheap, cheaper than you'll be able to build it yourself.
You can try it yourself, these aren't expensive, but they won't change anything dramatically. You should avoid the single tube (for both channels) ones though, they are all bad at crosstalk.
Which Yamahas do you have? If you want more warmth, you should rather modify your speaker crossover though. Point #1 would be the resistor(s)/voltage divider of your tweeters and placing some felt into the back chamber of the compression driver.
The Yamahas aren't bad but they are PA speakers, not monitors like the JBLs. They already got an L-pad for the tweeter, so no need to change that. I haven't found it online, can you draw the circuit of the crossover?
I personally would look for ie. a Yamaha C series but that's just me though. I don't know which sources you use, I could imagine you might like a NAD or or Rotel preamp but there are a lot others too.
I prefer the 3e-audio TPA325x to the Sure t-amp. you do not need a preamp to make the sound warmer. No, the preamp I showed only works with Sure's t-amp. As mentioned by ICG, your speakers are type PA. I doubt that you get the maximum of TPA.
Also see if a DAC would not give a higher sound.