Is there any difference Wondom TAMP2300, 2400 or 2500's sound quality? As I seen, the layout totally same, and the active elements same. I don't want high volume, or big power, I plan using with 36V Power supply, and approxx 88-90 dB/W sensitivity speakers.
And another question: I have a 160 VA transformer, can I use it for moderate listening volume level (30-40 W/channel).
And another question: I have a 160 VA transformer, can I use it for moderate listening volume level (30-40 W/channel).
Last edited:
In germany the "gremlin-amps" (STA516BE) go for about 67€ (tamp2400 mkii) and 86€ (tamp2500 mkii):Suchergebnis fur gremlin | Boomaudio
A lot of people rave about them.
For that kind of many lots of amplifier modules can be had.
Have a look at audiophonics for example.
You´ll find everything from class-d 2x200w incl. DSP, class-a, class-ab, chipamps.
Amplifier Boards | HiFi Sono DIY | Audiophonics (3) - Audiophonics
If you want cheap you´ll get cheap. Might not sound good of course!?
Here at diyaudio.com you´ll easily find similarly cheap modules (through group buys or swap meet) that are real good or at least the best they can be.
Yesterday arrived the amplifier module. I ordered a 2x400 watt version, but "unfortunately" I get 500W module (AA-AB32512).
I have few questions:
- I have few unknown type 2,2 uF foil capacitor, can I use it (picture attached)?
- I'd like make resistor type attenuator, while my relay type attenuator will arive. I'm using Volumio with software mixer, but I'd like add plus safety, therefore I want add L-pad. My question is, can I add this resistors after capacitor, or it's better before capacitor...
I have few questions:
- I have few unknown type 2,2 uF foil capacitor, can I use it (picture attached)?
- I'd like make resistor type attenuator, while my relay type attenuator will arive. I'm using Volumio with software mixer, but I'd like add plus safety, therefore I want add L-pad. My question is, can I add this resistors after capacitor, or it's better before capacitor...
Attachments
Sure AA-AB32313 amplifier gain setting
I need help understanding how to adjust the gain on a Sure AA-AB32313 amplifier. The AB32313 spec. has three gains listed: 29, 31, 32. There are no adjusting pot, dip switches, or jumpers. The board does not indicate a gain change selection. I need to know if the gain can be changed. help
Lee
I need help understanding how to adjust the gain on a Sure AA-AB32313 amplifier. The AB32313 spec. has three gains listed: 29, 31, 32. There are no adjusting pot, dip switches, or jumpers. The board does not indicate a gain change selection. I need to know if the gain can be changed. help
Lee
Hi everyone~ *wave* *wave*
What do you think of this IC - STA320 DDTM Datasheet pdf - WITH DDTM. Equivalent, Catalog
It's used in conjunction with the STA516BE... and similar.
For example, I cite this text from - Digital Audio Power Amplifiers - STMicroelectronics
"STA518 is a monolithic quad half bridge stage in Multipower BCD Technology. The device can be used also as dual bridge or reconfigured, by connecting CONFIG pin to Vdd pin, as single bridge with double current capability.
The device is particularly designed to make the output stage of a stereo All-Digital High Efficiency (DDX™) amplifier capable to deliver an output power of 24W x 4 channels @ THD = 10% at Vcc 30V on 4W load in single ended configuration. It can also deliver 50 + 50W @ THD = 10% at Vcc 29V as output power on 8W load in BTL configuration and 70W @ THD = 10% at Vcc 34V on 8W in single paralleled BTL configuration."
Compared to other amplifiers, 24W x 4 channels @ THD = 10%, is not very good. So, this design & "DDX" is all just about skipping the traditional PC -> optical/coax/usb -> D/D chip, receiver -> D/A chip, voltage-out / current-out -> op-amp chip, conversion -> op-amp chip, line-out -> speaker chip / topology -> speaker
So it's like this is PC -> optical/coax/usb -> D/D chip, receiver -> D/A chip -> speaker chip / topology -> speaker
So it's something like less measured performance & less steps in the conversion?
What do you think of this IC - STA320 DDTM Datasheet pdf - WITH DDTM. Equivalent, Catalog
It's used in conjunction with the STA516BE... and similar.
For example, I cite this text from - Digital Audio Power Amplifiers - STMicroelectronics
"STA518 is a monolithic quad half bridge stage in Multipower BCD Technology. The device can be used also as dual bridge or reconfigured, by connecting CONFIG pin to Vdd pin, as single bridge with double current capability.
The device is particularly designed to make the output stage of a stereo All-Digital High Efficiency (DDX™) amplifier capable to deliver an output power of 24W x 4 channels @ THD = 10% at Vcc 30V on 4W load in single ended configuration. It can also deliver 50 + 50W @ THD = 10% at Vcc 29V as output power on 8W load in BTL configuration and 70W @ THD = 10% at Vcc 34V on 8W in single paralleled BTL configuration."
Compared to other amplifiers, 24W x 4 channels @ THD = 10%, is not very good. So, this design & "DDX" is all just about skipping the traditional PC -> optical/coax/usb -> D/D chip, receiver -> D/A chip, voltage-out / current-out -> op-amp chip, conversion -> op-amp chip, line-out -> speaker chip / topology -> speaker
So it's like this is PC -> optical/coax/usb -> D/D chip, receiver -> D/A chip -> speaker chip / topology -> speaker
So it's something like less measured performance & less steps in the conversion?
This is an old thread but I'd like to compare with other Gremlin owners.
Wanted to check if I could power a sub with enough headroom, I made some measurements on my AA-AB32313, to check out max power at clipping and max input at clipping.
Test has been done with a 4.7kOhm resistor and a 200Hz sine. SMPS is a Meanwell LRS350-36 running at a steady 40.8V
And now I understand I used to find it a bit limited for high volume listening.
Max input at clipping = 140mV! Max output is 4.8V.
Not surprising it was a bit weak...impossible to go full scale at 707mv RMS, it's clipping at not even 5Watts.
Is it normal? Could it be linked to the 40.8V instead of recommended 48V ?
Wanted to check if I could power a sub with enough headroom, I made some measurements on my AA-AB32313, to check out max power at clipping and max input at clipping.
Test has been done with a 4.7kOhm resistor and a 200Hz sine. SMPS is a Meanwell LRS350-36 running at a steady 40.8V
And now I understand I used to find it a bit limited for high volume listening.
Max input at clipping = 140mV! Max output is 4.8V.
Not surprising it was a bit weak...impossible to go full scale at 707mv RMS, it's clipping at not even 5Watts.
Is it normal? Could it be linked to the 40.8V instead of recommended 48V ?
I first measured with an AC voltmeter with a 50Hz sine, then verified that the result was the same on a sufficient range (the measurement stays the same till 5KHz).
Finally chose 200Hz to be where most energy will be. For the clipping I'm relying on the red led. If you push just 1 ot 2 db more you get terrible distortion ( just like an AM radio in-between frequencies )
On the other hand if the AV preamp outputs a standard 0.7V RMS at fulll scale (0db), knowing that the clipping occurs at -13 db, that's a bit more than 12 db so more than two doubling of voltage => 0.7 / 4 = 0.175 so 0.14 doesn't look so weird.
Finally chose 200Hz to be where most energy will be. For the clipping I'm relying on the red led. If you push just 1 ot 2 db more you get terrible distortion ( just like an AM radio in-between frequencies )
On the other hand if the AV preamp outputs a standard 0.7V RMS at fulll scale (0db), knowing that the clipping occurs at -13 db, that's a bit more than 12 db so more than two doubling of voltage => 0.7 / 4 = 0.175 so 0.14 doesn't look so weird.
I run through a similar problem, in my case I was using another amp in the family (AA-AB31511), basically the same pcb in PBTL with different gain and sensitivity and a different voltage requirements
At low input voltage the unit was blinking the clipping indicator. Mine was a 500W x1 supposed to peak at 1.7 V rms. I tested mine with a test signal, all the way from .9 to 1.5 Volts and monitored the current used by the amp with 24 and 40 Volts power supply
this is my exchange with sure/wondom where they claimed the red light is not a clipping but a "power stage "indicator. after that I relaxed, sadly, and accepted these were the limitations of the unit, that they are not as sated. I never was able to get close to the rated power or maximum amperage used or using the unit without the clipping indicator blinking. I am including question and answers from the email in 2017 (I just removed email addresses and names).
QUESTION
I just received an amp from you, the sure AA-AB31511 some days ago. I have tested the amp with 6 ohms speakers and 4 ohm speakers (dayton DCS380-4). The unit has a hiss when it comes up and stays on all the time.
What concerns me is that the unit seems to be out of specs power wise. I have tried generating test tones at different frequencies, such as 50, 60,100 Hz and 50-250 Hz sweep, using the 4Ohm dayton subwoffer driver, the max current I can get out of the power supply before the clipping light starts to blink is 2 amps. Since this is a 40 Volt power supply, and taking into consideration that according to TI the amp should have a efficiency between 90 to 95, and the power supply is 40 volts, that is a 70 watts average before clipping. I have run the test also at 24 volts and with different source inputs, with and without the volume controller and in all circumstances the amp will start to clip (red light turns on) about 2 amps. When using 6 ohm speakers, the clipping commences about 1.5 amp, so it is basically the same rate once corrected for impedance
According to sure, the max output of the unit should be 350W@3Ω 50V DC THD+N 1%, that is about 7 amps at 3 ohms and about 5 at 4 ohms, aka 262 watts. 70 watts is very far from 260.
So, is it normal that the clipping of this unit starts at 2 amps, 70watts, and that has hiss with no input (on full range speakers, both at 6 ohms and 3 ohms). I am wondering if this power numbers (70 watts with no clipping) and hiss is the normal rate of this amp or if I have a bad unit
WONDOM ANSWER
Dear User,
Thank you for your mail.
1. The red light is not for error indicator but for signal level indicator, which means it will be lighting when the amplifier comes into the power stage.
With power higher and higher, the red light will change to a brighter color.
2. When its current is 2 A, there’s no clipping and the power is still
Getting higher.
Thanks for your asking and we will increasingly update our data.
If you have any question, please kindly feel free to contact us.
Best Regards
Customer Service
| Input Sensitivity(RMS) | @3Ω,500W,1KHz | - | 1.3 | 1.8 | V |
| Power Supply | - | 15 | 50 | - | VDC |
At low input voltage the unit was blinking the clipping indicator. Mine was a 500W x1 supposed to peak at 1.7 V rms. I tested mine with a test signal, all the way from .9 to 1.5 Volts and monitored the current used by the amp with 24 and 40 Volts power supply
this is my exchange with sure/wondom where they claimed the red light is not a clipping but a "power stage "indicator. after that I relaxed, sadly, and accepted these were the limitations of the unit, that they are not as sated. I never was able to get close to the rated power or maximum amperage used or using the unit without the clipping indicator blinking. I am including question and answers from the email in 2017 (I just removed email addresses and names).
QUESTION
I just received an amp from you, the sure AA-AB31511 some days ago. I have tested the amp with 6 ohms speakers and 4 ohm speakers (dayton DCS380-4). The unit has a hiss when it comes up and stays on all the time.
What concerns me is that the unit seems to be out of specs power wise. I have tried generating test tones at different frequencies, such as 50, 60,100 Hz and 50-250 Hz sweep, using the 4Ohm dayton subwoffer driver, the max current I can get out of the power supply before the clipping light starts to blink is 2 amps. Since this is a 40 Volt power supply, and taking into consideration that according to TI the amp should have a efficiency between 90 to 95, and the power supply is 40 volts, that is a 70 watts average before clipping. I have run the test also at 24 volts and with different source inputs, with and without the volume controller and in all circumstances the amp will start to clip (red light turns on) about 2 amps. When using 6 ohm speakers, the clipping commences about 1.5 amp, so it is basically the same rate once corrected for impedance
According to sure, the max output of the unit should be 350W@3Ω 50V DC THD+N 1%, that is about 7 amps at 3 ohms and about 5 at 4 ohms, aka 262 watts. 70 watts is very far from 260.
So, is it normal that the clipping of this unit starts at 2 amps, 70watts, and that has hiss with no input (on full range speakers, both at 6 ohms and 3 ohms). I am wondering if this power numbers (70 watts with no clipping) and hiss is the normal rate of this amp or if I have a bad unit
WONDOM ANSWER
Dear User,
Thank you for your mail.
1. The red light is not for error indicator but for signal level indicator, which means it will be lighting when the amplifier comes into the power stage.
With power higher and higher, the red light will change to a brighter color.
2. When its current is 2 A, there’s no clipping and the power is still
Getting higher.
Thanks for your asking and we will increasingly update our data.
If you have any question, please kindly feel free to contact us.
Best Regards
Customer Service
Last edited:
Sure/Wondom is good looking low fi. They somehow discovered that black PCB are considered quality by stupid customers. Their stuff is basically made for points of sale and public announcement, not Hi End. Compare the technical data of their products with the data sheets of the chip producer and you will see that none of their amps delivers the power they claim, if you want something HIFI.
Sorry, but what do you expect, if you communicate with a Chinese "customer service"? The second they got your money, they do not care about you anymore. There are billions of potential customers in this world, so what do you expect a single unsatisfied person to be worth for them? Yes, right: Nothing. Be happy you even got an answer... Also, you are not even Chinese and considered a lower life form. Try to complain at Ali Express against a Chinese seller and you will see.
If you buy Chinese stuff in China, be prepared to solve problems by your self. If problems arise, the seller disappears. Business as usual.
Sorry, but what do you expect, if you communicate with a Chinese "customer service"? The second they got your money, they do not care about you anymore. There are billions of potential customers in this world, so what do you expect a single unsatisfied person to be worth for them? Yes, right: Nothing. Be happy you even got an answer... Also, you are not even Chinese and considered a lower life form. Try to complain at Ali Express against a Chinese seller and you will see.
If you buy Chinese stuff in China, be prepared to solve problems by your self. If problems arise, the seller disappears. Business as usual.
In as much as i mostly agree with you, i have won several disputes in Ali. Regarding the lack of support and post sale service in Chinese products, well that is almost all the time true. When i got my amp, reviews on the gremlin web site from Germany were nice, but i am dissatisfied with what I got. mine It's a sub amp via a minidsp, so i can live with it. But looking at hypex for my next amp
Submitted a case to their distributor (not aliexpress), will see.
However, I disagree with the sentence "good looking low fi". Sound is the best I've ever heard, and by far. Only issue is power.
Power can no way be 2x400w and they are not even lying about that, the gain is published and is 30db, which means 128W at 4Ohms and 64W at 8 Ohms for 0.7V Rms signal, rest is headroom.
Of course 5W is another story...
However, I disagree with the sentence "good looking low fi". Sound is the best I've ever heard, and by far. Only issue is power.
Power can no way be 2x400w and they are not even lying about that, the gain is published and is 30db, which means 128W at 4Ohms and 64W at 8 Ohms for 0.7V Rms signal, rest is headroom.
Of course 5W is another story...