Salas DCG3 preamp (line & headphone)

I too had a chance to listen to Salas' prototype a couple of months back, and I must say that the sound was exquisit.

I'm definitely in for a board + parts.

Btw, would anyone be interested in an IR remote control board for the selector & volume boards? It could be a pretty simple Arduino build, controlled by an Apple remote (or pretty much any other remote for that matter..).
 
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I have used two 30VA 800mA PCB style encapsulated in resin German brand transformers (HAHN) that are split bobbin inside. 800mA makes for 500mA in bridge rectification so its enough in double mono. They save space and don't hum or anything while they are 70C rated but they went 45C and I will specify 50VA in the BOM. The Antek for shielded Toroids and Hammond for frame transformers are very good solutions in the North American market.
 

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Salas, if anyone is interested, you can get toroidal transformers with an inter-winding screen and a flux band as adders onto their standard transformers from Airlink in the UK. They start at 50 VA (they wont do the adders on the 30VA version - I guess its too small). I used these guys for my 2 kVA transformer on my Ovation 250 amp - this is still the quietest transformer that I own mechanically and electrically.

Airlink Transformers with Flux Band and Inter-Winding Screen
 
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Hello Bonsai, I am sure that European builders will have a look. The best 18+18 I had in my hands was an 80VA R-Core Selectronic from France but I wasn't about waiting for another to pair it. It took a month once. I will keep it for common supply use. Another shielded toroid brand with good reputation among European DIYers is Toroidy from Poland.
 
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I too had a chance to listen to Salas' prototype a couple of months back, and I must say that the sound was exquisit.

I'm definitely in for a board + parts.

Btw, would anyone be interested in an IR remote control board for the selector & volume boards? It could be a pretty simple Arduino build, controlled by an Apple remote (or pretty much any other remote for that matter..).

Hello Dim Dim you will soon have the chance to listen in the main system on speakers as well as with your Fostex planar cans again. If you liked it with the lab supply and the sound card I guess you will like it even better with its dedicated psu and the DSD DAC. You may even bring around your Soekris. Its boxed already but not picked up yet. It has a Goldpoint 50K pot for now.
 

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When I changed C5 from MKS2 to MKP2 I thought I could hear a bit more open tone so I will have it in the BOM but not much of a difference. That one is the integrator cap that sees the op-amp's works when the servo input to ground C4 is for very low in Hz passive filtering and does not do things in the chip's loop. C1 signal bandwidth filter cap to ground is not influential if stable so it will be C0G/NP0 or silver mica. I have mica but Tham has C0G. Same for C2.
 
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I looked at Tea-Bag's blog about this and noticed in one of the pictures that the transformers look to be the Hammond Split Bobbin 229 type. If this is correct what VA do you recommend.

Thanks
Jim

Those are the 48VA 34VCT units. They seem overkill in dual mono, but Salas is recommending 50VA, so I would stick with that. I made those boards to fit 24 or 48VA versions of those boards.
 
Hi here.

I allway's (or mostly) do my own pcb's... I really like that part of diy Sry. :p

So in the progress with my pcb program (DipTrace), which i have been using for a lot of years now, i found this diversity of the pinout's of the BF256B.

Can anyone confirm or whatever my findings?

Also it looks like DipTrace are having the pin's wrong (At the gate where the arrow is, the DipTrace say's it the Drain?)

Anyway, there seems to be different pinouts, when reading different datasheet's

Regards; Jesper.

Btw. : Good job Salas :)
 

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Those are the 48VA 34VCT units. They seem overkill in dual mono, but Salas is recommending 50VA, so I would stick with that. I made those boards to fit 24 or 48VA versions of those boards.

Other guys may run 150mA bias or more so 50VA aren't too exaggerated for cool trafos operation I would think. Can you measure those Hammonds with the Fluke's probe for temperature in your 100mA build some time? They are big and not encapsulated so they must be running at low temperature. Your build maybe draws nearly 20W from the wall right now. Check with a Kill A Watt meter if you got. But don't forget and listen while still plugged on such a meter, its very audibly intruding for some reason. At least those two alike the Kill I used. One I killed measuring a 3kW room heater for long :D
 
Both have gate at the end.
Both have source in the middle.

But they are reverse order.
Fair is gsd and the other is dsg
Test your batch to see if you have dsg, or gsd, or some other.

Thanks AndrewT.

I see that now!

But what do you think of the DipTrace having the Drain where the "Gate-arrow" is ??? Funny thing. Am i not right here?

Bit confused i must say :confused:

Rgds; Jesper.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hi here.

I allway's (or mostly) do my own pcb's... I really like that part of diy Sry. :p

So in the progress with my pcb program (DipTrace), which i have been using for a lot of years now, i found this diversity of the pinout's of the BF256B.

Can anyone confirm or whatever my findings?

Also it looks like DipTrace are having the pin's wrong (At the gate where the arrow is, the DipTrace say's it the Drain?)

Anyway, there seems to be different pinouts, when reading different datasheet's

Regards; Jesper.

Btw. : Good job Salas :)

Those I got are Fairchild and the Atlas gadget tells me first pin on the left as I face the BF256 is gate
 
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Tea-Bab,
would you recommend using Hammond 229 trafos over other trafos

I think the quality is very nice on them, and the price compared to some other options is reasonable. In the US, it is hard to beat the price to quality ratio of the Antek parts.

As far as hearing differences between transformers, I dont think my ears are that precise on the matter.