XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass

its coming down to a decision - XKi for pym1298, XKi for SN10C, Baby (0.7 scale) University Classic - something else? - I like strong motors - Delta Pro8a has a more defined midrange than Beta10cx (which could use another pound of magnet slug). SN10C may be pretty good - I need to make an adapter to try it in a K12. pYM1298 and Kappa12 have tough voice coils and would go up high enough to meet a K-tube. Would the pym1298 XKi hit hard enough and exhibit low excursion?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
since already have some 12" sitting - (I think a Kappa 12 is about the same as the old pym1298

we know from your sim of a 0.8 scaled K15 that it should punch -

Def_Driver 'Pyle PYM1298' |Notes: Pyle Eminence 12" driver 97.8dB 1W/1M 99dB 2.83v 3.2mm XMax 600 watts 3" coil
SD=509.9cm2
fs=44.2Hz
Mms=43.1
Qms=6.76
Qes=0.31
Re=5.16
BL=14.15Tm
Le=0.54mH
Vas=111.2L

and its modern equivalent, Kappa 12A

Def_Driver 'Kappa12a
Sd=519.5
fs=45
Mms=42g
Qms=7.76
Qes=0.28
Re=5.41
BL=15.2
Le=0.77mH
Vas=112.15


50 liters rear chamber sounds fair for pym1298/kappa12 as K15 has around 100 liters rear chamber - its larger than a traditional K12's rear chamber.

for 15" K-couplers, I know Carl N. is fond of the X15 size with a curved upper reflector. - probably uses a laminated wood K-tube - a good K10 might have similar LF but have to work harder for given output. I like the 10 size as is "cute" can hit pretty well - just need the "perfect 10" ;^)

btw, I rather like some of the "K-effect"/"controlled ring" - if overdamped by the upper part of the aperture or damping material up front, then kinda dead - if underdamped - then can "bonnggg" :D

Its too bad Eminence never offered a big motor version of 12lta - 54oz magnet might be enough with the 2" coil.

Oh - the 0.62 scale K15 with Beta10cx and ASD1001 aren't shabby - quite a sound on John French's solo drumkit cd - loud/clear, no more than 1/8" peak to peak cone travel with my Crown xls 2500 on 4 o'clock from an old sound blaster card.

Standing up real close to the little K, it sounds weird - back 4 feet or more - it merges into a really nice soundfield.
 
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you know - I'd like a K8 real punchy - might have to use Delta rather than Beta8cx - smaller than the 0.62 scale below with 10 - I've run Super 8 and FE206EN in this coupler - not tried w8-1772 - probably have to reduce port area

Beta10cx is a good all around beater - I wish Eminence would put another pound of magnet on it then charge $16 more :D

Gradient's AX08 could work in a small K - with the rear chamber sealed or leaky low tuned aperiodic - not sure how far its meager xmax might go

vnHnxao.jpg
 
Reading through this thread I see beta 10cx mentioned several times. Do I have it right that the suggested 60litre xki enclosure needs to be changed? If so is it just a shorter vent.? Or?-- I have a pair of these drivers that need a home. xki looks very interesting. Thanks for any comments
 
I needed a bluetooth boombox for a room in my house so I decided to build another PA130 XKi. I used a YJ TPA3116 amp to power it. In the house it runs off a 19 volt laptop power brick, but its easily adapted for battery use.

For something different I did some Lichtenberg pyrography on the front panel.

QLYg98R.jpg


witWkyt.jpg
 
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Nice. It has a very Gothic feel to it. Very cool.
:cool:

I just gave away my XKi with PA130-8 "Daytonator" DIY coaxial. My friend absolutely loves it. Powered with 19v SMPS brick and TDA7392 monoblock from Sanwu. An absolute bass powerhouse for the 25w that it puts out. The XKi really controls cone motion well so it gets loud.
 
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smallest NST I have is 9KV/30mA - largest 15KV/60mA - those are pretty figures Jesse - how many points did you have to use with the electrodes? - did you work continuously moving one electrode ?

Either of those transformers would work. I'm using a 9KV one.

I did that piece with two pairs of contact points, top and bottom of the left "wing" and top and bottom of the right one. I'm pretty hesitant to touch anything while its energized.
 
I have a pair of these speakers waiting for a home:
Rockwood DY-811U Rockwood DY-811U

Daten:
Belastbarkeit: 80W rms
Impedanz: 8 Ohm
Kennschalldruckpegel: 93dB 1W/1m
Frequenzbereich: ~80Hz-12kHz
Spule: 50mm Alu, doppellagig
Korb: 205mm
Ausschnitt: 180mm
Tiefe: 75mm
Sonstiges: Hochtontrichter, Polkernbohrung


TSP: (Jobst-Audio. Roh, unkorrigiert)
Fs = 91.44 Hz
Re = 6.00 ohms[dc]
Le = 129.89 uH
L2 = 450.80 uH
R2 = 21.94 ohms
Qt = 0.95
Qes = 1.21
Qms = 4.36
Mms = 20.71 grams
Rms = 2.441737 kg/s
Cms = 0.147 mm/N
Vas = 9.18 liters
Sd = 211.24 cm^2
Bl = 7.424954 Tm
ETA = 0.52 %
Lp(2.83V/1m) = 90.52 dB

Would they make sense in a XKi?

Thanks in advance
Gerald
 
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Joined 2012
Paid Member
I have a pair of these speakers waiting for a home:
Rockwood DY-811U Rockwood DY-811U

Daten:
Belastbarkeit: 80W rms
Impedanz: 8 Ohm
Kennschalldruckpegel: 93dB 1W/1m
Frequenzbereich: ~80Hz-12kHz
Spule: 50mm Alu, doppellagig
Korb: 205mm
Ausschnitt: 180mm
Tiefe: 75mm
Sonstiges: Hochtontrichter, Polkernbohrung


TSP: (Jobst-Audio. Roh, unkorrigiert)
Fs = 91.44 Hz
Re = 6.00 ohms[dc]
Le = 129.89 uH
L2 = 450.80 uH
R2 = 21.94 ohms
Qt = 0.95
Qes = 1.21
Qms = 4.36
Mms = 20.71 grams
Rms = 2.441737 kg/s
Cms = 0.147 mm/N
Vas = 9.18 liters
Sd = 211.24 cm^2
Bl = 7.424954 Tm
ETA = 0.52 %
Lp(2.83V/1m) = 90.52 dB

Would they make sense in a XKi?

Thanks in advance
Gerald

Just looking at these specs, they would not work in an XKi, but might work in a Karlsonator. So let me confirm with you which design are you looking for? XKi is a 6th order bandpass and has a longer internal channel and no folded TL. Karlsonator is really a tapered quarter wave tube with K aperture.
 
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XKi is more like reflex box but with added cone control for higher power, Karlsonator had more of a TL sound - probably more hifi bass, and K aperture gives a wider dispersion of mids and highs. For low to moderate Qts motors the XKi is better. For mid to high Qts motors the Karlsonator is better. But that is very subjective.

I think overall, the Karlsonator sounds better as it has a wide range of genres.
 
in general, for a given driver size, the Karlsonators are larger and tuned lower than John Karlson's creations. Both are useful imo. I have a lot of respect for K15 and K12. Karlson even had a "K18". My experience with the Karlsonator includes the little Vita , the Karlsonator 6 prototype, and Karlsonator 12.

Greg B really came up with a good hybrid with his "Karlsonator" as XRK971 has modeled it in a lot of different driver and size situations .

I have some strong 12cx but being lazy am hesitant to try them in the Karlsonator 12 - mainly as that enclosure has a tuning or 37Hz which I think iss too low for 99dB 1w/1m drivers in the 0.3 Qts range. Karlson's little K12 was tuned around 60Hz and can be very dynamic with a good 12", clean program material and enough watts. Maybe I should give a strong 12CX a go as I didn't like Beta 10cx in the Karlonator 12- it sounded better with 12LTA and was fine with the old Audio Nirvana Super 10 with stamped frame and ferrite magnet, other than some roughness inherent in AN10 (easy to listen "around" even with no filter in the K-nator)

I'm very tempted to put AN10 in the little (0.62 scale)K15 its got more mids and highs than Beta10cx - would it balance and make it down to maybe 100Hz?? that's a tiny cabinet for AN10 with its Qt ~0.41 and fs around 50.

look at Beta10cx's behavior in the little ~1.9 cubic foot bulk mini-K15 vs Beta10cx in the 5.3 cubic foot Karlsonator.
- btw, with the Karlsonator 12/Beta10cx in another room, the bass extended to tuning (37Hz) .

Maybe Eminence's 2mH/10uF lowpass is too much for Beta10cx ? - "Osprey"'s creator uses less aggressive inductor values plus the nice
Peavey RX14 compression driver.

88ONFB0.gif
 
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So, if I were planning on building six speakers to run front, rear, center channels on a surround sound/home theater setup, would the Karlsonator or the Xki in this thread be a better choice? I would be augmenting the low-frequency with a separate subwoofer of some sort.

Would it be a good idea to make my front (and possibly center?) speakers a bit larger, since they will be providing more SPL? Maybe a dual driver design for them?

I will most likely look to spend from $10~25 per driver, Dayton pa130 sounds like it fits the budget.

I want efficiency since I will most likely be running them off of tube amps that provide an honest 10~14 watts (depending on the exact one I use, in the past I've been happy with 5 watts per channel when I run with a sub) so I'll take SPL and quality over crazy bass.

Any suggestions?