Hello folks,
on my second speaker setup Kef iQ30 x-over crossed over to the dark side...
I tested the speaker without the x-over and was working fine (woofer and tweeter).
I contacted Kef however didn't get any reply until now and it is already 4 days past.
Does anyone in Canada do upgrades to those x-overs with high end components?
I heard that also someone changed iQ30 with XQ20 x-overs and also did some kind of modifications. Anyone knows anything about it?
All help will be appreciated.
I attached some pics of the x-over w/values
on my second speaker setup Kef iQ30 x-over crossed over to the dark side...
I tested the speaker without the x-over and was working fine (woofer and tweeter).
I contacted Kef however didn't get any reply until now and it is already 4 days past.
Does anyone in Canada do upgrades to those x-overs with high end components?
I heard that also someone changed iQ30 with XQ20 x-overs and also did some kind of modifications. Anyone knows anything about it?
All help will be appreciated.
I attached some pics of the x-over w/values
Attachments
Replace electrolytic capacitors with Clarity Cap ESA 250V or Mundorf MKP 250V capacitors.
Replace 5W sand cast resistors with 12W Mills resistors.
All inductors are left untouched.
You can find those components at www.partsconnexion.com.
The store is located near Toronto.
Replace 5W sand cast resistors with 12W Mills resistors.
All inductors are left untouched.
You can find those components at www.partsconnexion.com.
The store is located near Toronto.
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Thank you! That's a solution especially the store is close to me (around 15min.). I will go there and ask for parts but online they do not have those values I need except Mills resistors... I hope I will be able to place a order through them.
Why I should leave those inductors?
Inductors have "difficult" parameters for newbies. You should be able to know their position/function in the circuit and replace with similar inductance/resistance. So what's the point in changing them in the case you don't want to change your crossover. Anyways is possible to build a new crossover if you know the complete set of parameters for them (inductors). An example, an air cored inductor is different from a iron core (DCR) if their value is the same (mH). Plus you have the diameter (AWG) of the conductor.
Different types here AUDIOXCEL
Different types here AUDIOXCEL
I wanted to get the inductors replaced while one xo doesn't work and I do not know which part is broken. This is the reason. By the way one inductor is air core and other one has ferrite core. I thought that all of them are the same as long as you have the value, and obviously I am wrong... I have to find service manual iQ30 to see what can be done.
Does anyone have a service manual for iQ30?
Does anyone have a service manual for iQ30?
I look at the pictures of the crossover and guess that the crossover is second order for the tweeter(two capacitor and one inductor 0.1mH) and first order for the woofer(1mH inductor) with woofer impedance equalization(one resistor and one capacitor).The crossover is bi-wired crossover.
No sound from tweeter?
No sound from woofer?
No sound on both tweeter and woofer?
Replacing those inductors will change the sound of the speaker(It may sound not good even there are high end components for the crossover).
No sound from tweeter?
No sound from woofer?
No sound on both tweeter and woofer?
Replacing those inductors will change the sound of the speaker(It may sound not good even there are high end components for the crossover).
I have no sound from woofer. I tested the speaker without x-over and woofer is working.
and yes this speaker can be bi-wired.
With two above pictures, I am able to draw the crossover schematic.Like I guess, the crossover has third order for tweeter and first order for woofer with impedance equalization for woofer.
No sound from woofer.
1- Resolder two places of 1mH inductor to check solder joints.
2- By pass 1mH inductor by a bus wire to check inductor.
3- Check red wire connection from crossover to woofer.
4- Check red wire connection from post to crossover.
No sound from woofer.
1- Resolder two places of 1mH inductor to check solder joints.
2- By pass 1mH inductor by a bus wire to check inductor.
3- Check red wire connection from crossover to woofer.
4- Check red wire connection from post to crossover.
Attachments
I think I found the problem... Need to check again however if you take a look at picture (bottom part of PCB) there is a hairline like cut. I assume that it was done by installation of the speaker in their factory but when I went and check the connection between the red wire and 6.8ohm resistor there was none. After I look closely this hairline was a crack on the PCB. I will solder a bridge there and recheck everything...
But now that I took out the x-over I think I will change capacitors and resistors as you suggested to get better sounding speaker! ;-)
In terms of modding the x-over, please let me know what can be done better?
But now that I took out the x-over I think I will change capacitors and resistors as you suggested to get better sounding speaker! ;-)
In terms of modding the x-over, please let me know what can be done better?
tuantran has done some good work for you there, my friend. You should be grateful.
This is all a bit odd. To lose bass entirely is not going to be the bass capacitor or resistor. It's going to be a fault in the bass inductor path. It's not really very likely the bass coil has got a broken wire, so you're really looking for a dry joint on the circuit board bass section or complete break in the speaker wiring I think.
Edit. Ah you've found the break then. Just reflow it with solder having scratched off some insulation, I'd reckon.
This is all a bit odd. To lose bass entirely is not going to be the bass capacitor or resistor. It's going to be a fault in the bass inductor path. It's not really very likely the bass coil has got a broken wire, so you're really looking for a dry joint on the circuit board bass section or complete break in the speaker wiring I think.
Edit. Ah you've found the break then. Just reflow it with solder having scratched off some insulation, I'd reckon.
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tuantran has done some good work for you there, my friend. You should be grateful.
This is all a bit odd. To lose bass entirely is not going to be the bass capacitor or resistor. It's going to be a fault in the bass inductor path. It's not really very likely the bass coil has got a broken wire, so you're really looking for a dry joint on the circuit board bass section or complete break in the speaker wiring I think.
Edit. Ah you've found the break then. Just reflow it with solder having scratched off some insulation, I'd reckon.
Of course I am grateful!!! I don't know why I didn't check prior that connection (I mean where the crack is)...
Thank you Tuan Tran!
But while I was reading that so much more can be done with this speaker in terms of the x-over I think I will do it while I got x-over already out... Suggestions?
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