Would a small folded midrange horn work?

@LORDSANSUI - Do you think its OK to cut out either or both of the sinus cavities adjacent to the constant area throat section - one to use as a carrying handle - the other possibly for the crossover ? - or will that jeopardize performance? I think the material is "18mm"/0.709" "Sandeply" plywood.

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@LORDSANSUI - Do you think its OK to cut out either or both of the sinus cavities adjacent to the constant area throat section - one to use as a carrying handle - the other possibly for the crossover ?

Hello Freddi,

There is NO difference in terms of performance if you used those cavities for handle and crossover. You can evaluate that by reducing the Vrc from 24L to 17L.

Besides the simulation didn't show any relevant difference, consider that reduced rear chamber means that the air will heat up faster, so the box usage is important to consider, if you are planning to use them at your house that will be OK, if it's planned for PA use so concern may rises.
 
mock-up (I hope) - it might turn out to be 11.5" internal width rather than 11 ?

@LORDSANSUI - is your 122l horn also for a 10" driver?

I'm still looking for input on a new Karlsonish toy - TB46's Karlflex for 15" would be neat - but suspect an 80 liter reflex tuned to 41Hz would do about as well. Diyaudio member "Suntiger" has the most experience with Karlson-tech and has made variant with 1/4 wave BLH/"K15" - open baffle and K12 with curved reflectors besides numerous K-tube including "concentric" tube.
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the pieces were just standing - so will be built pretty close to spec other than external dims from using 18mm vs 15mm. I've a pair of Emiennce custom 10's that even they don' hve q record on - cast frame - back plate threaded for 1 3/8 screw-on CD - 80oz magnet Qt 0.2 - bought cheap !
 
I've one reasonably good ear - but very discerning - I've not heard my other horns for over 4 years as never get a ride to my house where they rest/rot.

I picked some tracks for my builder to play - did not check them more than a few seconds but figure better than nothing

I don't listen to "dance music" and not sure what that might be - wild about drums, like opera - lieder - pop keyboard - dixieland jazz, some electronic stuff .

This little horn needs to be evaluated with good and non-hyped recordings of male and female vocals to check for coloration - tho it has parallel walls - it should be pretty darn good. Long time designer RCA-Fan said a lot of folded horns induce "chestiness" to male vocals. I need to put a reflector in his design horn the cubical one in the picture below as its looking rough above 350
Hz at 1/24 oct.


My friend has this to put on top:

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Snare drum

Full band -

Acoustic guitar

Chet Atkins electric guitar 1961

Piano

Some cabinets
 

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my builder is game to incorporate a slot port - what dims do you suggest for the 24 liter chamber? (maybe tuned ~ 80)_ I think at the power levels I might use it may be more an aesthetic choice vs a 4" diameter round port.

He's also going to make a plug out of expanding foam to tighten up the back chamber - maybe to around 8 liters so it can be convertible between sealed and vented back chamber modes.
 
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my builder is game to incorporate a slot port - what dims do you suggest for the 24 liter chamber? (maybe tuned ~ 80)_ I think at the power levels I might use it may be more an aesthetic choice vs a 4" diameter round port

I would tune the port as lower as possible , below crossover, just to exchange air and helps to cool the driver. You will need Subwoofer with it anyway.
 
What would you suggest for a speaker to go below it for a lightweight single channel battery rig? - a 60Hz bottom would be ok - if "punchy".

Unfortunately I don't know much about driver options available in USA but definitely I would pick one with light cone and high sensitivity, mid-low QTS, so you can get more SPL / voltage.

What about Eminence KAPPALITE 3015LF?? if too expensive maybe the Dayton Audio PA380-8 15 is chipper.
 
The “Made in China“ Dayton are hard to beat for the money, if Made in China is ok with you and performance adequate. A battery rig can’t go into the kW range typically, so you don’t need the last word in x-max - I would trade some of that off for sensitivity. The cheap (under $100) ones are not light, and the light ones not as cheap - but can be had for $200. The 15” Eminence is a nice driver, but they are getting pricey again (approaching their all time high of $300) and you can get a competitive neo B&C for the same money these days. One with a little less x-max and power handling, and even lighter for less too. The CL76 series are solid performers all around if you are not murdering them with wattage.
 
(I'm losing use of my arms - they crreak and snap and hurt) - it would be a toy rig w, 3116 or 3255 tops and for 2116 a 20v tool battery. I've not driven since 1996- had vertigo issues for 50 years so far.

I've plenty of odd Black Widow, two new M151, and several Altec 421-8H. My long distance builder buddy has an autotuba which he likes and he was wondering if any of his 8" would work in a scaled smallhorn3 - (he hs some Sammi FR8 with 20oz magnet, Eminence Alpha 8 and one FE206) tho there's not much xmax-his FE206 would work ok for what he wants.

I rather buy GRS than Eminence - their prices are outrageous and my income is down over 60% - when I can't pay taxes I'll lose all my income later this year if natural gas prices don't increase.

I had a pair of neo stamped frame Peavey 15's but thieves made off with them - those and 1/2" "Sandeply" would have made something lightweight. I might have a neo 12 but didn't see it when checking- It was about as heavy as some ferrite motor 12.
 

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