Woden Design 3" Box Designs, BabyLabs & more

[ssportclay]

Baby Lab series was as far as I know conceived as series for nominal 3" FR drivers, so I don't think so?

Storm Shadow Pluvia 7-Skyflash CHN-70-Falcon FF105wk: I believe these are all bigger than 3" drivers. I don't believe Scott ever released a Baby Lab for the A7.3 though it may exist in his notes or head somewhere.

 

[chrisb]

It certainly is hard to keep track of them all, even the ones I’ve built. I wonder if a non-compromised manifold design for the A7.3 might make it larger than say a MarKen, which I have built, definitely sound great.

 

[planet10]

but was there ever a Baby Lab for the A5.2

I have the pair you built downstairs, but they have never been populated.

dave

 

[planet10]

And was there ever a version for the A7.3?

In the Big Baby Lab series… something that has not gone far yet, and will be a paid planset.

dave

 

[JoeWislon]

I stumbled onto the baby lab designs while looking for something interesting to do with the Peerless TC9FD18-08 3-1/2". I've got 4 of these guys and I don't know what to do with them, but the baby lab designs look fun to build.

I'm not sure if the TC9FD would work out in any of these designs. I was looking through them and it looks like the Stinger / Alpair 6.2 design might be best suited given both are 3.5" full range drivers. But I'm not sure if the TC9FD is too different to really work.

Is this a dumb idea? Has there been a baby lab design for the TC9FD specifically? Any input is appreciated.

 

[tamra]

I have ordered Japanese wild cherry for the Lance.
This is my first experience to use solid wood.
I am thinking to varnish or shellac wood completely would work.

 

[stormfrontier]

Tamra, you can also use linseed or Tung oil for great results. I use wax and polish them after the application of oil.

 

[tamra]

Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.

 

[CraigSu]

Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.

Make sure you seal both sides of the boards to avoid warping. If you do it before assembly make sure you tape off any edges that will be glued prior to applying finish. If possible, wait until the cabinet is almost together and then apply finish. Either way, you don’t want finish interfering with an edge that will be glued; otherwise the glue joint will be weak.

 

[JoeWislon]

Thanks stormfrontier.
Oil and wax looks nice.
But I afraid that solid wood warps for dry and humid air condition.
So I am thinking to seal them.

Wipe on polyurethane is a pretty good varnish and what I generally use. You can wipe it on with a rag, it goes on thin so it shouldn't leave brush marks like standard polyurethane or other non-wiping varnishes. Wiping varnishes have been thinned to make them easier to work with, which means you will need to apply many coats. About 3 coats of wipe on is equivalent to 1 coat of standard. Usually you can apply 3 coats of wide on poly in about a day though, and 3-6 coats should be enough for something like a speaker (you pay want 9-18 coats for a high use piece of furniture like a kitchen table). Be sure to get a good mask (with a gas vapor filter) to wear when applying poly/varnish, and do it in a well ventilated area of course.

With poly or most other varnishes, they cure hard so you can build up a film. This protects and seals the wood much better than oil finishes.

Linseed/tung oil based finishes are easier and more pleasant work with, but they cure soft so they do little to protect the wood and let more moisture in. Limseed/tung oil are poor finishes on their own, so most products that claim to be some sort of oil finish (like Watco Danish Oil), are a mix of tung/linseed oil, varnish, and chemicals to make it dry faster.

As mentioned, be sure to finish the inside of the cabinet as well, this will prevent moisture transfer from happening at different rates, which tends to warp wood. It's a good idea to do all the cutting, gluing, and sanding before applying any finish. Make sure that if there is excess glue, that it is scraped off and sanded down to the point where it no longer makes a stain on the wood's surface, even a small amount of glue stain left on the surface will show up when you put the finish on.

 

[paul burchell]

Tamra my biggest concern building all solid would be the 2 panels glued cross grain . A good idea would be to choose the more quarter sawen panels here to reduce the constant stress on these joints.

Shellac is my go to finish for such as interior finish it has good properties regarding moisture transfer and goes on and dries fast.

 

[tamra]

Thanks for advice Joe and Paul. Actuallyi I just noticed.
And Big thanks Scott!!
The sound is amazing😀

I don't have garage so I used shellac.
Painted 5 times both side. I think its thick enough.
I have met Danish carpenter then he taught me proper french polish
so Its beautifully done.
Glue is "Tightbond genuine hide glue".
Longer assembly time for beginner.
But always I get gaps...Its not easy.

After few hours listening, Why this speaker sound so good?
Because good design? Solid wood?
Oh I need one more speaker for my room.

 

[toobhed]

Nice work Tamra, beautiful speaker cabinets!

 

[CraigSu]

Well executed, Tamra! That cherry will age nicely over time and develop a lovely patina.

 

[Scottmoose]

Lovely work indeed. 🙂 Glad you like them.

 

[senordilys3542]

Question for Chris or Dave

I am in the process of construction a pair of Bloodhounds for the Pluvia 5.2 and would appreciate an explanation for center of the driver being only 2.75 inches down a line which is about 30.5 inches long. I would have expected a longer distance. Would I be correct that the narrower depth of the final folded section allows a placement closer to the beginning of the line, i.e., versus the 3.75 inches of the Lance for the FF85wk?

 

[planet10]

Isn’t it Alpair 5.2?

That is a question for Scott. I mostly just draw what he sends me.

dave

 

[senordilys3542]

Thanks, Dave. We owe an inmeasurable debt to both you and Chris. Your drawings are a godsend for beginners like me and the varieties and flavors of BabyLabs provide enticing hints on the effect of various parameters on TLs.

 

[Scottmoose]

Too right. The amount Dave & Chris have given to the community is immeasureable, through designs, drawings and advice.

 

[planet10]

We owe an inmeasurable debt to both you and Chris.

Do not forget Scott, he is integral to the team and designs all the TLs & horns, and others. I design the miniOnkens. Chris builds & builds & builds.

dave