Before I buy the Alpair 5.3, will it fit into the Woden Bloodhound box? Looking at the specs some are similar and some not and I'm definitely not qualified to know one way or the other...
Thanks...
Thanks...
I may attempt a Falcon as the woodworking looks pretty straightforward for a beginner.
I read through this thread and couldn't find a definitive suggestion for the damping material.
I found some UltraTouch "Denim" but min. thickness was 2".
Do you simply cut it to 1/2" thickness, or is there a different material that can be bought without modification?
I read through this thread and couldn't find a definitive suggestion for the damping material.
I found some UltraTouch "Denim" but min. thickness was 2".
Do you simply cut it to 1/2" thickness, or is there a different material that can be bought without modification?
Eco Plush 1/2" - RugPadUSA
Would this work for damping material?
Also, any idea about whether the Bloodhound is a good fit for the Alpair 5.3?
Thanks,
Macatac
Would this work for damping material?
Also, any idea about whether the Bloodhound is a good fit for the Alpair 5.3?
Thanks,
Macatac
So far none of Scott’s or my boxes, including Bloodhound, care whether yu use A5.2 or A5.3 — as best i can figure the largest thing about the difference is that the latter appeals more to Japan (which still consumes the most Mark Audio).
The CHN50 — except for driver mounting detail changes, also fits the same uMar-Kens as the above.
dave
The CHN50 — except for driver mounting detail changes, also fits the same uMar-Kens as the above.
dave
I am planning to build a Bloodhound. The 1/2" thick baffle seems a bit small. Any problem with doubling up the front baffle thickness and keeping the same interior dimensions? Does the driver need to be braced on the back like in many of the Mar-kens?
How far does the chamfer need to go? The drawings show it coming to a point. There still needs to be some wood to screw into, right? I have seen photos of builds where they don't chamfer as much where the screw holes for the drivers are.
In my opinion and experience, don't chamfer where the screw holes are. It's always worked well for me. You can either use a router or a rasp.
Mike
Mike
wcwc,
In the following link you'll find a pic of a chamfer I did for an Alpair 10.x driver:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/238125-pensils-alpair-10-3-alpair-10p-15.html#post4752786
As mikejennens has mentioned, there's wood left in the areas for the screw holes. This was done with a router. Same can be done with a rasp. Lot of saw dust/particles, so please wear a mask. Hope it helps.
In the following link you'll find a pic of a chamfer I did for an Alpair 10.x driver:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/238125-pensils-alpair-10-3-alpair-10p-15.html#post4752786
As mikejennens has mentioned, there's wood left in the areas for the screw holes. This was done with a router. Same can be done with a rasp. Lot of saw dust/particles, so please wear a mask. Hope it helps.
Depends on the baffle thickness and material. W have done both methods, but in later builds all th eway round (with the big bezel MA anyway) it still leaves planty of plywood for the screws.
dave
dave
