I just received the foam, two pieces of 20 x 30cm per cabinet, so I will try it out when I can be bothered to undo all the bolts in the Radials and re-tighten them. I must admit to being slightly sceptical that the difference will be very great but I'll be very pleased if it is! Worth a try for £20 anyway. It's odd that WA don't put these in the kit.
I've given up trying to get a nice glossy black finish. Even after talking to Wilmslow Audio, they said it was nearly impossible even with a dedicated dust free environment.
So, I've just spent £200 on some iron on veneer and I'm going to stain that Ebony and wax it. That doesn't require a dust free and dog free environment and you can just keep on waxing until they shine like a new penny.
Anyone buying these - do opt for the finished cabinets, the flat packs are a real test of your patience.
Oh, and I've just ordered the two x ScanSpeak R2904/7000.0's.
About £3000 laid down on the speakers alone and probably not too far off that for the active crossover and tri-amping.
So, I've just spent £200 on some iron on veneer and I'm going to stain that Ebony and wax it. That doesn't require a dust free and dog free environment and you can just keep on waxing until they shine like a new penny.
Anyone buying these - do opt for the finished cabinets, the flat packs are a real test of your patience.
Oh, and I've just ordered the two x ScanSpeak R2904/7000.0's.
About £3000 laid down on the speakers alone and probably not too far off that for the active crossover and tri-amping.
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I've requisitioned some 80mm thick foam to put behind the bass divers on mine.
I couldn't tell the difference after I fitted the foam BUT I expect that it has a greater effect as the volume is increased.
I'm not too surprised re the black finish, several people in the know told me it is very difficult to get piano gloss finish from mdf, that's why I was interested to see what happened with yours.
Iron on Veneer
This stuff really is quite good and fairly easy to use.
It covers up a multitude of sins if your cabinets are not too clever, mine are OK by the way.
I'm not too sure how you are supposed to cut the edges. You have to iron on bits that are too big as it shrinks quite a lot. I've been bending the joins at the edges and sanding the veneer to the point where it breaks without tearing. That's OK for all the straight edges but how am I going to cut the veneer around the driver holes ?
A scalpel comes to mind - but is there a better way ?
I appreciate that the staining isn't quite uniform, that will be corrected as more staining is applied, they will be BLACK before I wax them.
This stuff really is quite good and fairly easy to use.
It covers up a multitude of sins if your cabinets are not too clever, mine are OK by the way.
I'm not too sure how you are supposed to cut the edges. You have to iron on bits that are too big as it shrinks quite a lot. I've been bending the joins at the edges and sanding the veneer to the point where it breaks without tearing. That's OK for all the straight edges but how am I going to cut the veneer around the driver holes ?
A scalpel comes to mind - but is there a better way ?
I appreciate that the staining isn't quite uniform, that will be corrected as more staining is applied, they will be BLACK before I wax them.
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A veneer saw is what you need, especially for oak veneer which is quite 'splitty'.
VENEER SAW | eBay
I've used oak a couple of times, both glue and iron-on. Glue is easier in that it doesn't shrink but the fumes aren't nice. I have used a very sharp Stanley knife for the edges (scalpels flex too much) and then fine sanded it down. I've read of others using routers. The veneer saw seems the way to go as it is designed for the job.
I had a pair of black Ash speakers which I waxed. I didn't find it easy to get the wax even and there would be odd patches which felt tacky. The oak bookcases I built recently were treated with Danish oil. It gives a soft sheen rather than a gloss but it is straightforward to apply.
Veneering round the driver holes is going to be awkward. Make a really accurate cardboard template, cut inside and file outwards. Perhaps put a cardboard mask inside the hole or stuff it with something to stop too much dust going in.
VENEER SAW | eBay
I've used oak a couple of times, both glue and iron-on. Glue is easier in that it doesn't shrink but the fumes aren't nice. I have used a very sharp Stanley knife for the edges (scalpels flex too much) and then fine sanded it down. I've read of others using routers. The veneer saw seems the way to go as it is designed for the job.
I had a pair of black Ash speakers which I waxed. I didn't find it easy to get the wax even and there would be odd patches which felt tacky. The oak bookcases I built recently were treated with Danish oil. It gives a soft sheen rather than a gloss but it is straightforward to apply.
Veneering round the driver holes is going to be awkward. Make a really accurate cardboard template, cut inside and file outwards. Perhaps put a cardboard mask inside the hole or stuff it with something to stop too much dust going in.
Please make sure you read the instructions, it gives off nasty fumes.....but it does a good job.
Thank you for that. I'm familiar with spontaneous combustion of oily rags but others might not be.
I tend to pinch a sheet or two of Kimtex from work, it's like a plastic form of kitchen towel that is lint free and disposable.
I've found the easiest way to form the veneer is to bend the edges very slightly and then wear away the veneer at the edge with a sanding block. After very little effort the veneer is so thin that you can slice through it with no danger of it splitting with a craft knife.
The edges may not be razor sharp but they are still well defined and the finished product looks lovely.
The edges may not be razor sharp but they are still well defined and the finished product looks lovely.
This veneering is really quite satisfying
I'm almost there, just the two flanges either side of the front and the top to go.
I'm still waiting for a suggestion as to what I can use to fill the slight gaps with that won't repeal or act against the Danish Oil.
The fun bit has been cutting around the carefully rebated holes in the front baffle. The trick here has been a worn Dremel sanding barrel.
I'm almost there, just the two flanges either side of the front and the top to go.
I'm still waiting for a suggestion as to what I can use to fill the slight gaps with that won't repeal or act against the Danish Oil.
The fun bit has been cutting around the carefully rebated holes in the front baffle. The trick here has been a worn Dremel sanding barrel.
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