If you bypass the volume and room correction, then the USB output is bit perfect to whatever digital input you put in. For the analog inputs, it looks like the ADC has its own settings so I guess the volume and room correction would follow the bit rate? I haven't tried this but.. hmm... it would be easy enough to drive some analog signal into the unit and look at what bit rates come out of the DAC.
When I run Tidal Connect from the PC, Chromebook and Android phone via WiFi and then connect the DAC to the USB, whatever bit rate is being streamed in Tidal: "low", "Master", Redbook, 24/96, 24/192, etc... is also the bit rate that WiiM Home and the DAC show.
I have not yet tried connecting via the ethernet network. I just bought a 2nd WiiM Ultra yesterday, so this weekend I will try it with a hard wired ethernet connection. The reason I think they both will work is because they both use the same TCP/IP stack.... the only difference is between the datalink: ethernet or WiFi. Just like your PC. I recall reading in their site that if you plug ethernet it automatically overrides WiFi which makes a lot of sense,
My wife uses Spotify, so we'll give that a spin since this second unit will be primarily for her. I'll let you know. In the User's Manual, page 8, it tells you to go to spotify.com/connect
For your experiments in other connections... ideally you'd use a DAC that shows the bit rate. The Topping D90SE is perfect because it has a BIG display I can see from 10 feet away. I suppose WiiM home has a display somewhere
Aaahh did you see this setting?
the sample rates are 44.1, 48, 92 and 192. The bit depths are 16 and 24
I suppose this is the same bit rate that will go out the USB?
BTW, I set the SPDIF and Coax also to 24/192 but there is no setting for the USB output. But based on the settings and behavior with Tidal Connect, it looks like the USB connection will output whatever the ADC is generating. Even when the volume control is turned off ( Fixed Volume Output ) at the top of the WiiM Home Audio configuration page.
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It's an Apple Toy for Apple People.
We here are Android and Linux people. The WiiM Ultra is the device when we need a break with playing with the Raspberry and need a break...
Apple is the anti-DIY... and BTW, do read the title of the thread?
You could move the speakers and the couch about.... usually it works better than equalization... but move on... it's good to know....
^ Why not?
I mean that very seriously and IMHO it's a very helpful advice.
Why? You say... well funny you should ask... let me tell ya... 😉
https://sengpielaudio.com/calculator-roommodes.htm
https://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/room-eigenmodes.html
Usually the best way to fix resonant modes in your system is to move the speakers and/or your listening spot. Make it so you avoid any room resonances and achieve a broad spectrum.... do it naturally.
I should say AFTER addressing the room proper.
Equalization should always be the last option.
Equalization works well for compensation for a recording or perhaps for temporary adjustments of a component ( or for a loudness adjustment at low levels), but standing waves and acoustic anomalies in a listening room tend to be outside of the scope of frequency adjustments. For one thing, you will need a parametric equalizer that has adjustments for frequency, level and Q. For another thing is will only work for ONE spot... or rather for two spots ( speakers and listening chair ). If you move so much as a foot to either side, you will lose it.
Example... my home office. 12 x 13 feet with a ceiling that goes from 9 to 13 feet. Three sides are lined with bookshelves, and records. Desks on two sides. Floor to ceiling curtains on another wall. fWall to wall carpeted. Full of stuff. The room is well damped and even so there are a couple of nodal spots for bass. I got speakers on two sides ( got three audio systems in here... )... one system is for close listening (3 feet) the other two are 11 feet from a comfy chair.
I've managed to get good sound and no standing waves and no need for equalization. And I don't play it loud.
I mean, go for it, give it a try, have fun, but my opinion ( and experience ) is that ultimately you will use it as a tone control not as a room equalization device.
You know, if you go the Home Theater forums you read about people using their fancy Dolby/Tinnov/etc... "room correction" systems... then you find out they've shoehorned dual 18" 1000 watt subwoofers, 14 speakers and an AVR into a room that is 10x12x8... and they expect the "room correction" to make it sound like an IMAX theater...
It comes down to Physics. Can't do it.
I mean that very seriously and IMHO it's a very helpful advice.
Why? You say... well funny you should ask... let me tell ya... 😉
https://sengpielaudio.com/calculator-roommodes.htm
https://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/room-eigenmodes.html
Usually the best way to fix resonant modes in your system is to move the speakers and/or your listening spot. Make it so you avoid any room resonances and achieve a broad spectrum.... do it naturally.
I should say AFTER addressing the room proper.
Equalization should always be the last option.
Equalization works well for compensation for a recording or perhaps for temporary adjustments of a component ( or for a loudness adjustment at low levels), but standing waves and acoustic anomalies in a listening room tend to be outside of the scope of frequency adjustments. For one thing, you will need a parametric equalizer that has adjustments for frequency, level and Q. For another thing is will only work for ONE spot... or rather for two spots ( speakers and listening chair ). If you move so much as a foot to either side, you will lose it.
Example... my home office. 12 x 13 feet with a ceiling that goes from 9 to 13 feet. Three sides are lined with bookshelves, and records. Desks on two sides. Floor to ceiling curtains on another wall. fWall to wall carpeted. Full of stuff. The room is well damped and even so there are a couple of nodal spots for bass. I got speakers on two sides ( got three audio systems in here... )... one system is for close listening (3 feet) the other two are 11 feet from a comfy chair.
I've managed to get good sound and no standing waves and no need for equalization. And I don't play it loud.
I mean, go for it, give it a try, have fun, but my opinion ( and experience ) is that ultimately you will use it as a tone control not as a room equalization device.
You know, if you go the Home Theater forums you read about people using their fancy Dolby/Tinnov/etc... "room correction" systems... then you find out they've shoehorned dual 18" 1000 watt subwoofers, 14 speakers and an AVR into a room that is 10x12x8... and they expect the "room correction" to make it sound like an IMAX theater...
It comes down to Physics. Can't do it.
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Great and right on advice from TonyEE.
Room treatments and gear placement as well as seating position are the most critical for all systems.
Tuning by EQ should only be done as a last resort and best not to add too much, too flat a response can sound dull in man cases. I prefer a bit of added bass and top end but not too much, finding a balance between low level listening where our hearing is not as linear and high level where it is more so and not having to adjust between them really helps overall for ease of use.
Also far better to bring down levels around drop outs instead of instead of boosting them.
Rick
Room treatments and gear placement as well as seating position are the most critical for all systems.
Tuning by EQ should only be done as a last resort and best not to add too much, too flat a response can sound dull in man cases. I prefer a bit of added bass and top end but not too much, finding a balance between low level listening where our hearing is not as linear and high level where it is more so and not having to adjust between them really helps overall for ease of use.
Also far better to bring down levels around drop outs instead of instead of boosting them.
Rick
I guess I was meaning that I don't have the freedom to put the speakers wherever I like, it is a family living room unfortunately
You can move them a bit I would hope, might not be enough but finding the best spot for them and how they are aimed at the listening area. They can be aimed in our out to help direct the center position relative to the seating position but if you generally have more than one person there then a bit wider might be better.
And treat the room the best you can do which can look quite nice if done with the materials that suites your taste.
After those things are done then work on the EQing but do not add to dips unless only a tiny bit, just move things near the dips down the best you can.
The reason for that is dips are usually caused by a null which takes a lot of power to overcome if at all and you end up clipping the amp or over driving the speakers in that range. Reducing things on either side of the dips instead does not cause such problems.
Rick
And treat the room the best you can do which can look quite nice if done with the materials that suites your taste.
After those things are done then work on the EQing but do not add to dips unless only a tiny bit, just move things near the dips down the best you can.
The reason for that is dips are usually caused by a null which takes a lot of power to overcome if at all and you end up clipping the amp or over driving the speakers in that range. Reducing things on either side of the dips instead does not cause such problems.
Rick
You know.... my couch is like 6 feet from the back wall. We got us a 7' by 4' curio cabinet... it's all glass but CURVED from side to side... so it sits about five feet behind my head when I sit on the couch listening. Imagine something like a Sony KV25XBR Trinitron but much wider, taller and with more curvature.
I realize that it sounds crazy to put a curio cabinet behind you but being curved it works fantastic. It works like a diffusor without making the room dead.
Sometimes you gotta think outside the box... it's the little things that make a huge difference.. and often times they are free or -On Sale ( My Motto BTW ).
I realize that it sounds crazy to put a curio cabinet behind you but being curved it works fantastic. It works like a diffusor without making the room dead.
Sometimes you gotta think outside the box... it's the little things that make a huge difference.. and often times they are free or -On Sale ( My Motto BTW ).
That is a very cool thing to try and get great results from and you can have nice things to look at that do not need dusting all the time🙂
It will have nothing to do with the audio system where it is located but I am building in a 30" w by 48" t by 5" d cabinet that will hold mostly rocks, crystals, etc so we can enjoy part of our (mostly my wife's) collection. I will have a couple of pretty big spires on each side of my monitor on my desk between the FH Joan speakers, might even move them around to see if they change anything🙂
I will post up a pic of our listening area on my build thread, drivers due to be dropped of any minute now, MA200.
It will show I have no real place for panels on the walls beside the speakers so I am looking into folding ones I can bring out for critical listening times and put away when not in use.
Rick
It will have nothing to do with the audio system where it is located but I am building in a 30" w by 48" t by 5" d cabinet that will hold mostly rocks, crystals, etc so we can enjoy part of our (mostly my wife's) collection. I will have a couple of pretty big spires on each side of my monitor on my desk between the FH Joan speakers, might even move them around to see if they change anything🙂
I will post up a pic of our listening area on my build thread, drivers due to be dropped of any minute now, MA200.
It will show I have no real place for panels on the walls beside the speakers so I am looking into folding ones I can bring out for critical listening times and put away when not in use.
Rick
I just bought the 3rd one. As it happens, I have the use case in three systems.... to drive the DAC via USB in home office and living room.. and to use it built in DAC in the den. Heck, I could likely use it in our upstairs bedroom system.
Just got an email from Outlaw audio about price increases due to tariffs... so I figured I'be proactive on this. Not wait for sales.
Still waiting for Paypal/ALiexpress to refund the money from the one I had bought two weeks ago.
Last night I was playing a Simon and Garfunkel Greatest Hits stream over Tidal HiFi... it's been up'd to 24/192. And the WiiM and DAC were both playing at that level... it sounded very good. So, I've been sitting on the 2nd WiiM Ultra not knowing where I was gonna put it, den for wife, living room for me.
Now I don't have to think about it. I think I'll set the one I got on Sunday in the living room, easy to access. I'll install the 3rd one in the den next weekend... that one requires some moving of stuff.
Just got an email from Outlaw audio about price increases due to tariffs... so I figured I'be proactive on this. Not wait for sales.
Still waiting for Paypal/ALiexpress to refund the money from the one I had bought two weeks ago.
Last night I was playing a Simon and Garfunkel Greatest Hits stream over Tidal HiFi... it's been up'd to 24/192. And the WiiM and DAC were both playing at that level... it sounded very good. So, I've been sitting on the 2nd WiiM Ultra not knowing where I was gonna put it, den for wife, living room for me.
Now I don't have to think about it. I think I'll set the one I got on Sunday in the living room, easy to access. I'll install the 3rd one in the den next weekend... that one requires some moving of stuff.
OK, hooked up the 2nd WiiM Ultra in living room. Via USB to the Burson Play.. with the fancy opamps.
Installed WiiM Home in a Chromebook.
Running it wired on ethernet, still using a dynamic IP address.
(1) WiiM Home doesn't work in a Chromebook.... at least not the ASUS.
(2) For some reason, this 2nd did not connects over WiFi. I have a wired drop in there so I hooked it up and it connected.
(3) Until the network is connected, it just sits there telling you to download the WiiM Home... once it connects it takes you to the default I/O home screen.
(4) I'm running WiiM Home in my Win 11. It sees both.
(5) Did you know that you can not change the output option from WiiM Home. I hadn't noticed that earlier.
(6) For some dumb reason (me?) I can't pair the remote.
(7) The User's Manual sure sucks. The included one that is.
So, right now I'm playing a 24/192 stream from Tidal HiFi in the chromebook. IT does seem silly to use WiFi to bypass the USB reclocking issue when the Chromebook, WiiM Ultra and DAC (Burson) are all sitting next to each other, touching indeed. $350 bucks to bypass a shortcoming of Android's bit perfect issues.
Installed WiiM Home in a Chromebook.
Running it wired on ethernet, still using a dynamic IP address.
(1) WiiM Home doesn't work in a Chromebook.... at least not the ASUS.
(2) For some reason, this 2nd did not connects over WiFi. I have a wired drop in there so I hooked it up and it connected.
(3) Until the network is connected, it just sits there telling you to download the WiiM Home... once it connects it takes you to the default I/O home screen.
(4) I'm running WiiM Home in my Win 11. It sees both.
(5) Did you know that you can not change the output option from WiiM Home. I hadn't noticed that earlier.
(6) For some dumb reason (me?) I can't pair the remote.
(7) The User's Manual sure sucks. The included one that is.
So, right now I'm playing a 24/192 stream from Tidal HiFi in the chromebook. IT does seem silly to use WiFi to bypass the USB reclocking issue when the Chromebook, WiiM Ultra and DAC (Burson) are all sitting next to each other, touching indeed. $350 bucks to bypass a shortcoming of Android's bit perfect issues.
OK, a bit more testing.
The issue of "losing" the device under Tidal HiFI is still there when playing from a PC even if the device is on a wired ethernet network.
I will have to modify it to go to a static IP address... but for that I need to spend some time with my etc/hosts file. Right now it gets its IP address via DHCP.
Oh. ABSOLUTELY YOU NEED TO RUN THIS FROM ANDROID WHEN CONFIGURING IT. Chromebook doesn't run WiiM Home... and the PC version is fine for running it when it's configured but not to start it up.
I guess iPhones work too, but I don't have that.
Got both remotes to pair, using an Android tablet running WIiM Home.
The issue of "losing" the device under Tidal HiFI is still there when playing from a PC even if the device is on a wired ethernet network.
I will have to modify it to go to a static IP address... but for that I need to spend some time with my etc/hosts file. Right now it gets its IP address via DHCP.
Oh. ABSOLUTELY YOU NEED TO RUN THIS FROM ANDROID WHEN CONFIGURING IT. Chromebook doesn't run WiiM Home... and the PC version is fine for running it when it's configured but not to start it up.
I guess iPhones work too, but I don't have that.
Got both remotes to pair, using an Android tablet running WIiM Home.
I have a MAC address-based IP reservation entry set in the router for my NUC streamer (and only for the darn MonkeyMote if I decide to use JRiver... otherwise, it's all Computer Name...). I am sure you can use that (a reserved IP address), unless there are some specifics about your setup, like a clash with the Linux hosts' list. But even then, I'd put aside a list of 10 IP addresses that can not/should not be changed from Linux.
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IPADDR I'm set, trust me. I run 264 IP addresses in my home LAN. All of the used hostname/IPADDRs are defined in the etc/hosts file. The hardest thing is to come up with hostnames
I reserve 31 (1->31) IP addresses for wired machines... PCs, Raspberries, Smart TVs, Rokus, Tablos, etc.
Then I reserve another 32 (32->61) for the wireless Android and Chromebooks. They connect via WiFi but have static IP addressed.
Then I reserve 128 IP addresses for the DHCP server. I have not created a MAC to IPADDR map list. Yet.
The system resources such as printers, NAS, switches, router, modem all run on the upper 32 IP addresses.
( Note, there is a hole in the middle, yes. I'm running out of room for the static IP addresses, so I think I'll create it).
I have played with setting up a VLAN for visitors. Why not?
The laptops are all named: lapdog, lapel, lapidary, lapOfluxury, laptop...
The workstations all named after Disney... Snowhite, WickedWitch, Doc, Dopey (mine), Grumpy (mine), Happy, Bashful, Sneezy, Dopey, PrinceCharming.
My original set of DAW were Avalon, Funicello, Vallie, Sinatra...
The Raspberries... obvious.... all kinds of berries.
Resources are easy, RAID0, RAID1, RAID2, RAID3, router, backupRouter, cableModem, frontSwitch, backSwitch, sideSwitch, frontPrinter, backPrinter, etc... easy peachy. SSIDs are Gandalf, Bilbo and Gollum.... with variations for 2.2 and 5 as needed.
I haven't come up yet with proper names for the three WiiM Ultras. Right now they're frontOffice, livingRoom and den. And my wife would like another one in her office at the back of the house. Today I got her to use her Tidal HiFi account -again! Now my problem will be keeping her from MY Ultras in the front of the house.
Oh, my Ubuntu PC runs the service to publish the etc/hosts... but just in case I keep a local file in all of the Linux/Raspberries/Windows machines/RAIDs. So I tend to not change the host name list too often.
I LOVE being Grumpy and Dopey. Properly, they are a WIn11 and Win10 machines.
I reserve 31 (1->31) IP addresses for wired machines... PCs, Raspberries, Smart TVs, Rokus, Tablos, etc.
Then I reserve another 32 (32->61) for the wireless Android and Chromebooks. They connect via WiFi but have static IP addressed.
Then I reserve 128 IP addresses for the DHCP server. I have not created a MAC to IPADDR map list. Yet.
The system resources such as printers, NAS, switches, router, modem all run on the upper 32 IP addresses.
( Note, there is a hole in the middle, yes. I'm running out of room for the static IP addresses, so I think I'll create it).
I have played with setting up a VLAN for visitors. Why not?
The laptops are all named: lapdog, lapel, lapidary, lapOfluxury, laptop...
The workstations all named after Disney... Snowhite, WickedWitch, Doc, Dopey (mine), Grumpy (mine), Happy, Bashful, Sneezy, Dopey, PrinceCharming.
My original set of DAW were Avalon, Funicello, Vallie, Sinatra...
The Raspberries... obvious.... all kinds of berries.
Resources are easy, RAID0, RAID1, RAID2, RAID3, router, backupRouter, cableModem, frontSwitch, backSwitch, sideSwitch, frontPrinter, backPrinter, etc... easy peachy. SSIDs are Gandalf, Bilbo and Gollum.... with variations for 2.2 and 5 as needed.
I haven't come up yet with proper names for the three WiiM Ultras. Right now they're frontOffice, livingRoom and den. And my wife would like another one in her office at the back of the house. Today I got her to use her Tidal HiFi account -again! Now my problem will be keeping her from MY Ultras in the front of the house.
Oh, my Ubuntu PC runs the service to publish the etc/hosts... but just in case I keep a local file in all of the Linux/Raspberries/Windows machines/RAIDs. So I tend to not change the host name list too often.
I LOVE being Grumpy and Dopey. Properly, they are a WIn11 and Win10 machines.
Finally got my money back.
I think that ideally you should plug the WiiM Ultra into your ethernet network and then use your Android phone/tablet to roam over WiFi to connect to it.
As it now stands, WiiM Home requires Android to configure a WiiM Ultra. But once it's running a PC running Windows works well too.
For just using Tidal Connect, Chromebook, Android and Windows all work well, except with the loss of the visibility of the Tidal Connect Connection from the PC - the one that required toggling the DNS settings in the Ultra to reconnect...
I think that ideally you should plug the WiiM Ultra into your ethernet network and then use your Android phone/tablet to roam over WiFi to connect to it.
As it now stands, WiiM Home requires Android to configure a WiiM Ultra. But once it's running a PC running Windows works well too.
For just using Tidal Connect, Chromebook, Android and Windows all work well, except with the loss of the visibility of the Tidal Connect Connection from the PC - the one that required toggling the DNS settings in the Ultra to reconnect...
Yeah! Good news on getting your money back!
Great advice on how to setup and use the Ultra.
Rick
Great advice on how to setup and use the Ultra.
Rick
It sounds really good.
I got the LP too.... but this is more convenient as I'm "working"...
The music sounds great..... playing over the Nitsch DAC into the ET3SE and F4 into the AE1 with a Parasound Z running the little woofers... just enough to fill the bottom.
Actually, right now it's playing Bridge Over Troubled Water.... and I got to admit that the LP always had an issue handling the high volume where the music became harsh... it's just that they tried to put a lot of music into the vinyl and so it didn't handle the high volumes that well.
The post processing they did solved a lot of that.... his voice at the end of the song with the strings in the background keep it clean... there's still a bit of 'eeeeh" in there, but that could have been in the master tape.... oh well...
Hard to work... I need to retire.... having too much fun.
Hey, @jean-paul Gotta give you a BIG THANKS for bringing this up.... not only did it solve a problem, bit-perfect playback, but I'm having a blast playing with it over the network. Soooo handy....
I got the LP too.... but this is more convenient as I'm "working"...
The music sounds great..... playing over the Nitsch DAC into the ET3SE and F4 into the AE1 with a Parasound Z running the little woofers... just enough to fill the bottom.
Actually, right now it's playing Bridge Over Troubled Water.... and I got to admit that the LP always had an issue handling the high volume where the music became harsh... it's just that they tried to put a lot of music into the vinyl and so it didn't handle the high volumes that well.
The post processing they did solved a lot of that.... his voice at the end of the song with the strings in the background keep it clean... there's still a bit of 'eeeeh" in there, but that could have been in the master tape.... oh well...
Hard to work... I need to retire.... having too much fun.
Hey, @jean-paul Gotta give you a BIG THANKS for bringing this up.... not only did it solve a problem, bit-perfect playback, but I'm having a blast playing with it over the network. Soooo handy....
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I've been looking.... for something that will only do a bridge from ethernet/WiFi to USB.
iFi Zen Stream
https://ifi-audio.com/products/zen-stream
But it's more expensive than the Ultra and it has a lot less functionality.... no remote, no DAC, etc...
iFi Zen Stream
https://ifi-audio.com/products/zen-stream
But it's more expensive than the Ultra and it has a lot less functionality.... no remote, no DAC, etc...