Budwin63 SS 1600.2
It might be easy to repair if you can do that stuff, people here can help you. I think that is a class AB? I would go class D for subs with that kind of wattage because it takes less power/wiring from the car, but that is up to you. I guess I'd say investigate how blown it is, rather you want another amp or not. If it is really messed up then move on otherwise repaired you would have a working amp to sell or keep using. Start a new thread if you want to mess with it.
It might be easy to repair if you can do that stuff, people here can help you. I think that is a class AB? I would go class D for subs with that kind of wattage because it takes less power/wiring from the car, but that is up to you. I guess I'd say investigate how blown it is, rather you want another amp or not. If it is really messed up then move on otherwise repaired you would have a working amp to sell or keep using. Start a new thread if you want to mess with it.
Here you go, I took photos of my friends car finally....a trip back in time! Has been in storage for many years so kind of dusty and stuff laying around. I had a trunk like that but 4 subs, man that thing hammered nice. He has paper stuck between the 10s in there the fit is so tight with 6. He said the 10s would only handle the 300s so he did not run the 500 coustic in there. The subs are sansui (white) and pyle pros, 6x9 in metal boxes. He had a diehard 1100cca battery under hood and on each side of trunk to run it, said largest alternator back then was 90a I think. He rebuilt the one in it to 90. Now he has a larger one to put in and other subs and whatnot...if he gets around to it again.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
tsmith1315 said:
Yes, red or blue heatsinks with a pair of "Gran Prix" flags on the front. Ugly, but a 2300 underneath. I've never heard of Cruise Power - but it looks like a fleamarket amp!!
Far from a flea market amp. I had one when they came out. Ran it on 8 Petras 15's. Sounded great. It is gold anodized and red painted side plates. Has a PPI 2300 board (exact) except slightly modified. Puts out full power at 16 ohms bridged rather than the normal 4 ohms. Out of the 1000+ vintage/old school amps I have, this one is a favorite. Made well, and super rare. Not to mention this one is new in the box.
tomtomjr said:
Your post implies that I thought it is a flea market amp. I said it looks like a flea-market amp.
jol50 said:
Gah, those are old school to me. Typicaly 1980's half-assed install. Sorry, but that looks terrible.
WHAT
beuty is in the eyes of the beholder,I think it looks great.It show character,very atypical of the 80's-90's.It is not contemporary with all the fiberglass and uncompinsated marketing but thats ok.
This being an audiophile,enthusisic electronic forum,I guess some of us havent peeked on the inside of vintage tube or solid state amp.The appreciation for diversity.
beuty is in the eyes of the beholder,I think it looks great.It show character,very atypical of the 80's-90's.It is not contemporary with all the fiberglass and uncompinsated marketing but thats ok.
This being an audiophile,enthusisic electronic forum,I guess some of us havent peeked on the inside of vintage tube or solid state amp.The appreciation for diversity.
Lol, I warned you it looks ugly. I know it has been sitting that way for about 15 years. He drove it around the block a few times since but that is it. It was all flat and just the fins stuck out on the amps, no wires were visible on them or the subs. There were fans blowing on them from above and he had some colored lights in there of some kind. I think the tape labels he put on when he stopped driving the car. The towels were so the T-tops would just fit over the amps in case someone rode in the back seat. He had some covers on the batteries too, I think he messed it up when he took them out. It is pretty dusty in there, worse than the pics show...but that is some good old school hardware 😎 I had one of the crossovers and I didn't like it, I would not run this setup the way it is but its his and he likes (liked) it that way. Also has a 9 band EQ by the driver seat. I forget the HU but it had two antennas and used the best one, he also has my good kenwood HU from back then a 999 or 9900 I forget. I think everything in the car is 1980s except maybe the subs were a hair newer. Subs were changed in that car many times, along with everything else.EnvisionAudio said:
EnvisionAudio, Are you having a bad day or something? A really nice amp that I have looks like a "flea market amp", and Jol50's buddies classic install "looks terrible" . Just curious, but why the bashing? We just put some pics up, and you slammed them. My first installs were pretty rough, but you gotta start somewhere. I remember some cars from my first crank-it-up contest in 85 that this car would have beaten out in the install part. I can handle that you don't like the cruise-power amp, everyone has a preference. But slamming someone's install like that is just plain rude. If you are happy with it, and it doesn't start a fire, that's all that matters. I personally like the old school install pics, and appreciate Jol50 for putting them up. If everyone did a perfect install, there wouldn't be installers.
tomtomjr said:
I would disagree with the"PPI exact" part of your statement. BUI cruise power was a MOS Fet output amp with a "Orion like" drive stage. There power supply boards were separate from the amp board. And connected by a big jumper plug that also was a source of trouble due to poor electrical contact issues < i remember hard wiring a few to solve the issues >
Neither PPI or Orion used this design layout. BUI lasted about 18 months as I recall because they were over priced and would not run 2 ohm loads reliably. I even remember replacing a few outputs and power supplies in these back in the day, I was a young man back then lol lol lol
Not a bad product, just not 2 ohm stable even with the switch selector on the bottom of the amp in the correct position. If you want to improve yours have modern high grade Mosfets installed in the power supply, and look into upgrading the outputs with current Mosfets, you can double your output current capacity with a fet upgrade. It will make the amp more reliable. LMK if you ever have trouble I know these amps well....C
PS it was rather well made for its time, probably why it was so high priced. But Mosfets back then are nothing compared to what you can buy today. You have a very nice specimen, very collectible I would say.... Definitly NOT Flea-market...🙂
I don't care, its an ancient install and half apart. He built a board that covers the whole trunk floor to mount the amps, then another board over it that is carpeted and maybe that one is not in there. That one had holes that fit the sinks of all the amps unless he cut the holes large to fit the plugs and left the carpet loose over those...not sure I did not touch anything. I had to hold the camera in the trunk I could not get to the car from rear. Back then that was the 'new' cool install to have the sink show. But mine were mounted where his center pyle subs into the seat are, I only ran two amps there. I put the seat subs out and high as I could, made a baffle that covered the whole thing and another for the deck. For the life of me I can't find the pics of it. 🙁 In my current IB I did not get fancy as it will be changed, I put bolts between the subs and wired them to the seat side. All the amp wiring except power is at the top, the sub wires come back in there and all speaker wires are loomed high on the deck. Can't really see it unless you get in the trunk. I made a cover for the top end of the amp to cover the terminals but yeah I don't have it on there lol.
1moreamp, You do know your BUI amps. I had asked you about them in the past. I have only seen 2 of them. I had a few of the PPI 2300's in the early days, and thought they had the same boards. I guess the memory is giving out. Thanks for the correction. I doubt I will update this amp since it will most likely never be installed. Just sits in the box. Good info to know though. Just in case I get another one in.
I do have a super rare old school amp that is supposed to be here today UPS. I am sure some of you will know the amp. Will post pics of it later tonight. Been waiting a long time for this one.
I do have a super rare old school amp that is supposed to be here today UPS. I am sure some of you will know the amp. Will post pics of it later tonight. Been waiting a long time for this one.
Even if you think about it not much has changed.False floors then-False floors now.Plywood and carpet to cover wiring-MDF and painted fiberglass to cover wiring.Only difference we've evoulded by sharing knowledge from different professional fields.Any installer that doesnt know this is simply out of sinc.
Do contemporary car audiophiles think they have progressed simply because of snap-in plastic grommets.Honestly speaking I'd rather listen to a SoundStream in-dash CD player than a compressed wav,mp3,mp4,divx,ect.ect file from an I-Pod any day
Well in my opinion... Most of my amps are atleast 20yrs old. Still jam as if they were brand new,In fact i still have some new in the box amps from the 90s. Just look at some of these class d amps, most are burned. And since they are so cheap to buy them, you can use the burned ones as trotline weights because that's about what they're worth blown. Now you take an amp like an Orion 2100 and it's worth more blown than a new Orion. In a nutshell my 20+ yr Alphasoniks will still be working next year, And the ones guys are running today? Might be a coors light can next month............. Curly
Let's not get off the subject.Talking to myself.
My favorite amp of time would have to be:
Linear Power TO3 series-because they are easliy modified
US AMPS First Generation KA-50 and KA-250
MMATTS/SEAS First Generation without the processors
My favorite amp of time would have to be:
Linear Power TO3 series-because they are easliy modified
US AMPS First Generation KA-50 and KA-250
MMATTS/SEAS First Generation without the processors
tomtomjr said:
Nope, I'm having a great day, thanks! I don't think the term "slamming" is appropriate. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and neither one looked good to me.
There are always worse cars, but this install isn't well thought-out and that is my opinion. It is what it is...
Again, what part of my response said I don't like your amplifier?
I didn't say:
1. It IS a flea market amp
2. It sucks because I've never heard of it
3. You suck because you have a gold anodized amplifier
4. It sucks because it's old
5. You suck because you like old school car audio
Glad we cleared that up. 🙄
amc32 said:Let's not get off the subject.Talking to myself.
My favorite amp of time would have to be:
Linear Power TO3 series-because they are easliy modified
US AMPS First Generation KA-50 and KA-250
MMATTS/SEAS First Generation without the processors
I have a US AMPS KA-250, complete with unifinished aluminum end plates and prototype-style guts complete with hand etched serial number. I gutted the board and heatsink, drew up a schematic and bought all new, old stock parts (where I could find them). This one was blown at some point and missing the mounting bars. I refinished the heatsink (stripped, reanodized, new sticker) and plan to keep it forever.
Anyone have a KLW Carver "Broadway" amplifier? 😉