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Who is interested in a groupbuy of Mark Kelly's DC controller PCB and related parts

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#604
very nice job, mine doesn't have the led charge indicator at the moment probably I will do it. But looking at its schematic made me wonder because I haven't found anywhere , probably my fault, the Vcc or power supply indication. In the web page explanation Mark Kelly taulk of 7815 regulator so I argued Vcc is 15V and I made it, but looking now at the charge status LEDs schematic there is a 18V ps. indication which is probably the right one even because with 15V ps I now see that CHARGE+ is 12,5V and 13,8V as it should be.
Giorgio
 
#610
superhkm said:
I've finished soldering ages ago, or so I thought, because last nigth I finally found time ( and energy ) to hook it all up, secure the motor and turn the thing on ! ..........No current to motor. :bawling:

I need to use glasses when I solder.
Click to expand...


Nope, that was not it. I did over some solderpoints that didn't look to good, but no change.

In fact I realized I wasn't getting no voltage, I got 0.62 V.

That didn't help at all.

Ideas anyone ? I really don't have a clue how to troubleshoot this.
 
#613
There are many here far more qualified than I to advise you. However, since they are not responding, start here:

Even before you get to number one.....(please don't take this as an insult)....does your battery have a charge? If so, are you certain of correct polarity to the board?

If so, then....

1. Obtain a magnifying device (glass, loupe, scope, visor....whatever) and examine your board in minute detail.

I have had a pcb circuit fail due to a hair-fine solder bridge.

2. Verify that you have installed all components.

3. Verify each resistor value in situ.

4. If everything appears to be otherwise in order, check continuity with your multimeter.
 
#614
after 10 days that it worked wonderfully, than the tension started to goes up and down, as I already wrote, I took it off C5-10 and it worked for few hours than it just stopped definetly. I had less than 1v at the output. The Ics seemed ok but the ref02 Vout wasn't 5v but 0,somethingV. I have just ordered ref02 replacement to see if that the problem. Maybe you can ceck that too.
Giorgio
 
#615
Seth Hensel said:
There are many here far more qualified than I to advise you. However, since they are not responding, start here:

Even before you get to number one.....(please don't take this as an insult)....does your battery have a charge? If so, are you certain of correct polarity to the board?
Click to expand...

Thank you, no I'm not insulted, a check list has to start somewhere.

All the solderigs looked ok, I made some random changes on the toggle switches and tried again , as I pressed a little hard on the connectors for the motor with the multimeter pins, the motor started, the voltage jumped to 5.32 and stayed there. :cannotbe:

So now things look ok ! the motor makes a lotof a noise in its current position ( do you all use those M2 screws to attach the Maxon to a top plate or there other subtler methods ? ) and finetuning it to 33 1/3 - 45 rpm is hard , but with some patience I should get there.
 
#616
superhkm said:

So now things look ok ! the motor makes a lotof a noise in its current position ( do you all use those M2 screws to attach the Maxon to a top plate or there other subtler methods ? ) and finetuning it to 33 1/3 - 45 rpm is hard , but with some patience I should get there.
Click to expand...

I use M2 screws, no problem here.
Is the motor noisy with the brass pulley installed or is it noisy without the brass pulley installed?
 
#619
Troubleshooting guide

Let's see if the problem is mechanical or electrical.

1st, disconnect the motor from the drive and run the motor on a 6 volt battery with no pulley attached. It should be dead quiet except for some slight commutator whir. If it is not then you have a bung motor. Return it to source and get another.

Next, unplug the connector on the speed selector board and switch to one side and set the dipswitches on that side to 11100111. Read the resistance between the two outer pins of the conenctor it should be approximately 10k. Read the resistance between the centre pin and one of the outer pins and adjust the pot until the reading is half the first reading.

Plug the connector back in, turn the unit on and read the voltage between ground (the negative supply pin) and the pins on each of the three ICs and the two transistors which attach to the heatsink.

Post a list of the voltages here and we'll have a look at them.
 
#620
Re: Troubleshooting guide

Mark Kelly said:
Let's see if the problem is mechanical or electrical.

1st, disconnect the motor from the drive and run the motor on a 6 volt battery with no pulley attached. It should be dead quiet except for some slight commutator whir. If it is not then you have a bung motor. Return it to source and get another.

Next, unplug the connector on the speed selector board and switch to one side and set the dipswitches on that side to 11100111. Read the resistance between the two outer pins of the conenctor it should be approximately 10k. Read the resistance between the centre pin and one of the outer pins and adjust the pot until the reading is half the first reading.

Plug the connector back in, turn the unit on and read the voltage between ground (the negative supply pin) and the pins on each of the three ICs and the two transistors which attach to the heatsink.

Post a list of the voltages here and we'll have a look at them.
Click to expand...


Thanks Mark, I did the first part yesterday and realized that it is as good as silent when I just leave it on my workbench at full speed ( matching 45 rpm ) also with the pulley on. So I think the problem is fastening it properly, in perfect vertical, and dampening the frame/case I am making for it.

If you have the time, please explain why you were interested in the voltage readings ?
 
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