What's best: stand-alone binding posts or terminal cups?

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#82
I have done a number of base-plate mounted terminals. Mostly WBT terminals. Doing custom work, when a customer comes to me with more money than brains, whom am I to
not oblige? Silver WBT's with silver wire to the drivers is audiofool heaven.

Seriously, though, base-plate mounted terminals are easy to do and with the right choices are a low mass solution. My only objection is that the base plates do not come with 3/4" terminal spacing, so double bananas can't be used for fast swapping. I suppose you could drill your own base plates, but....

Bob
 
#87
planet10 said:
I want as little metal as possible between my amp & speakers.

dave
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If less than one inch of metal scares you that much, why not just cut off two inches of your speaker cable. That should give you a dramatic improvement.

A binding post have to be rated for correct current, have good connection and plated fo no or minimal corrosion over time.

For normal home use, I think current is not a problem, but for high power it is an issue
 
#88
My main issue with binding posts is the danger of stray wires and short-circuits. It shouldn't happen but given that I once had a customer ask if a turntable mat was suitable for 33rpm as well as 45rpm records, the technical capabilities of some hi-fi enthusiasts should not be over-estimated.
 
#91
Colin said:
KEF's Reference 5 binding posts. They may get them from a plumbing wholesaler.

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...0065/1000w/KEF+Reference+5+at+Audio+T_-42.jpg
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Well, that's 'different'. 😉

These are pretty good connectors for shows if you can't use Speakon or those Y shaped double-pronged plugs (great providing the spacing between the binding posts matches. If not, you're screwed). Endless fun terrifying half the people in the room by hot-shifting between different speakers. Neat sliding protective cover.
 

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#93
Sottymoo...You didn't think I was LEAVING, leaving? Did you? I didn't try to finish with an insult at all you my friend, not at all. It was a genuine concern (tongue in cheek mind you), again I was trying to figure out how you & your friends can think that all of musical expression, art or love of life can be measured by an electronic machine somewhere. It's just not that simple guys to try and take something like (hardwiring which is actually so straight forward & easy to experiment with to see it's value) & blanket statement it that "If I can't measure it (speaking now in the 1st person as if I were you) or see it on a graph? Then it doesn't exist!" You guys are just way too funny in your rigid little worlds accusing others of being just like yourselves (lost, fearful & being of no import.) because they take an alternate tangent from your own 😉
 
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#94
ABTN - that's a nice little reality distortion field you have going on there.

There's a no-man's land between absolute objectivism that you seem to be implying to anyone not agreeing with your stream of consciousness herein, and what many of us actually think.

Just to repeat, some of us have spent half a century or more in this hobby, during which time we've witnessed and inhaled some rare silliness - indeed more than a few still do. The permutations of tweaks and upgrades range from things as simple as buttons of Blue-tack putty between speaker enclosures and top plates of lead shot filled metal speaker stands to any number of other worldly nonsense as might be found chronicled at 6Moons. $1650 nine driver IEMs, Mina - tweaks - really? 6moons audioreviews: Mina-Tweaks Mina

So excuse those of us who roll our eyes from time to time
"plus ca change., plus c-est meme chose"
 
#100
xrk971 said:
If having as few non soldered joints and minimizing cable runs was important, would an active system with an amp chip soldered directly to the driver's FASTON tab for each driver be the ultimate reduction in wires with joints then?
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Well Sir, close but not enough I might say ... if you don´t mind !!!!!! 😡

You´d *still* have some 6 to 8 inches of horrible metal to go through (half on each side) between amp out and ***actual*** voice coil.

Now that length is enough to contaminate the purity of the purest signal.

Copper !!!!! Ugh !!!!!! :whacko:

The only way to solve it and achieve transparency is to build both voice coil *and* amplifier on the same cylindrically rolled , flexible PCB material which is based on Kapton (r)

An extra advantage of my invention is that you-do-not-NEED-to WIND-the-voicecoil 😎 (gosh!! I´m brilliant !!!) but simply etch it on the kapton surface.

Another advantage is that you avoid harmonic smashing metal to metal contact.

Copper to solder is worst, of course, but even if you twisted voice coil wires around Chipamp legs (scratching tin off previously) it would still NOT be "the same" copper 😎 while if coil is made out of the very same copper as the PCB tracks, meaning no gaps, homogeneous, same properties, you achieve the most transparent interface.

I submit my proposal to ABTN himself, the only one in DIY Audio (besides me, of course), with ears sharp enough to notice the difference.

Here is an illustration: both PCBs and ribbon connector are built on a a single continuous piece of flexible PCB sheet; what I suggest is that the voice coil is etched and a homogeneous unit with power amp which is built on the voice coil former itself:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


All serious comments are welcome, all bad blood ones (those who disagree) will instantly be deleted and writers placed on an ignore list ...what they deserve for disagreeing with ME.
 
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