Perhaps you haven't seen what a 60w amp can look like? These are one of the best sounding 50w class D's. They are about size of a postage stamp. You could easily stick it on magnet with double sided tape.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-869.html
Sottymoo...You didn't think I was LEAVING, leaving? Did you? I didn't try to finish with an insult at all you my friend, not at all. It was a genuine concern (tongue in cheek mind you), again I was trying to figure out how you & your friends can think that all of musical expression, art or love of life can be measured by an electronic machine somewhere. It's just not that simple guys to try and take something like (hardwiring which is actually so straight forward & easy to experiment with to see it's value) & blanket statement it that "If I can't measure it (speaking now in the 1st person as if I were you) or see it on a graph? Then it doesn't exist!" You guys are just way too funny in your rigid little worlds accusing others of being just like yourselves (lost, fearful & being of no import.) because they take an alternate tangent from your own
In order to enjoy music (musical expression, art or love of life) all here in DIY is completely waste of time DIY audio is a hobby for most of us (religion for some).
99,9% of all people enjoy music with speakers with 5" woofer, and even without knowing what a capacitor is, and not knowing what a class AB amplifier is.
If "we" were right - then almost the entire planet was not able to enjoy music, because they have cheap Dali or Mission speakers and some cheap amplifiers from NAD or Yamaha - or even a small ghettoblaster. The big suprise guys - music comes out of those horrible creations.
@ air between the notes. To keep it all on the subject of subjectivity in regards to the original question. I have had 2 identical cd's( lost one and then found the lost one after buying another Rage Against The Machine ) for a laugh marked the edge of one with green texta. Heard absolutely no difference whatsoever. Had a mate shuffle and randomly play tracks Had 2 Harmon &Kardon 970 cd players with custom class A output stages playing through custom built 100 w el 34 monoblcks into Tannoy Canterbury SE's
Running cables direct on fullrangers with no termials and de oxidised bare connecting wire to the amp did sound a little more open and dynamic than cable connected via terminals and spades. Me and a mate thought there was a small and I do mean small difference. The testing of that was with a 14 watt CV40/60 triode connected amp through Coral Beta 8's. The surprise being it seemed to sound better with thinner guage wire.
Trying the same thing with a small 5.25 inch driver XT25 tweeter 2 way produced with minimum component crossover no discernable change. But changing from a Single run of Supra PLY 3.4S to a double run per speaker when running the 2 ways with the 100 watt mono blocks was quite noticibly superior in "aliveness" of the perceived sound. Also tried some of that woven cat 5 from the formula from that ex Bell labs guy. Worked well with my sand amps but inferior on the valve amps. They did have sgnificantly more capacitance than my other cables. Which may explain that result. That is the wire in the picture.
The crazy things you do with too much time and money in your hands.
Running cables direct on fullrangers with no termials and de oxidised bare connecting wire to the amp did sound a little more open and dynamic than cable connected via terminals and spades. Me and a mate thought there was a small and I do mean small difference. The testing of that was with a 14 watt CV40/60 triode connected amp through Coral Beta 8's. The surprise being it seemed to sound better with thinner guage wire.
Trying the same thing with a small 5.25 inch driver XT25 tweeter 2 way produced with minimum component crossover no discernable change. But changing from a Single run of Supra PLY 3.4S to a double run per speaker when running the 2 ways with the 100 watt mono blocks was quite noticibly superior in "aliveness" of the perceived sound. Also tried some of that woven cat 5 from the formula from that ex Bell labs guy. Worked well with my sand amps but inferior on the valve amps. They did have sgnificantly more capacitance than my other cables. Which may explain that result. That is the wire in the picture.
The crazy things you do with too much time and money in your hands.
Attachments
Last edited:
@theaudiopath
My error. I though that your post was from Air after his idiotic post about coloring the edges of CD's. OK, I need to pay attention!
However: I don't build electronics. I buy electronics. The miniDSP and by extension the nanoDIGI were not designed for "in-a-box", they were designed for the hack -- er, experimenter. So, with the "in-a-box" version, I have a power cord, a USB (the control line) and a TOSLink on the front and 2 or 3 coax outputs on the back. There just isn't any way to make the wiring on the front look presentable. Yes, double-sided foam tape comes in handy making the DAC's stay put on top of the 98E's, but I don't like the looks of the front wiring. So, the nanoDIGI is hidden back amongst the interconnects. The designer who decided to put an IR receiver for remote control in with all of the front wiring must have been on something.
Bob
My error. I though that your post was from Air after his idiotic post about coloring the edges of CD's. OK, I need to pay attention!
However: I don't build electronics. I buy electronics. The miniDSP and by extension the nanoDIGI were not designed for "in-a-box", they were designed for the hack -- er, experimenter. So, with the "in-a-box" version, I have a power cord, a USB (the control line) and a TOSLink on the front and 2 or 3 coax outputs on the back. There just isn't any way to make the wiring on the front look presentable. Yes, double-sided foam tape comes in handy making the DAC's stay put on top of the 98E's, but I don't like the looks of the front wiring. So, the nanoDIGI is hidden back amongst the interconnects. The designer who decided to put an IR receiver for remote control in with all of the front wiring must have been on something.
Bob
No, not green that's crazy! You don't want to try & counteract just a red source, you want to use black (if possible flat black) to counter act all light pollution. Yes I get that there are small amps out there but attaching them to a driver will directly couple them to a source of vibrations & that small "usually" means they are made of vibration sensitive parts to boot. Ok, I see, that we (me, myself & I)(plus anyone else watching what has been going on here) are talking with some folks who are from a Galaxy far, far, away in a time long, long, ago, who just drive spaceships & don't look under the hood. That's cool!) Now I get why your results have not been the same as mine. My quest for how our results could be so very different are answered & that's not a a put down or superiority air but just a quest to understand how we have come up with our experiences/results that were so completely different. I will leave you alone now
Should I also color the edges of my green LPs? Would that help? I'm guessing not, since that one is a needle, not a laser beam that is thousands of times brighter than any leaked light sipping into the closed tray of a CD player.
Wait, how about gaffer tape along the edges of my LPs? That would probably reduce vibrations to the needle, and add rotational weight so less variation in speed as well...
You probably have tried that already, yes?
Wait, how about gaffer tape along the edges of my LPs? That would probably reduce vibrations to the needle, and add rotational weight so less variation in speed as well...
You probably have tried that already, yes?
No, you are taking it wrong. Look at a piece of glass & the light shinning out the edges of it. Your laser beam light doesn't just go straight up & bounce straight back some of the light bounces off to get caught bouncing around inside of the clear plastic of the cd & returns later into the signal chain as an echo. The black covering of ink helps to absorb that stray light beams pollution as it bounces around in there so it does not return later in the signal chain....is this starting to sound like excess metal, poor metal, lousy dialectic, crossovers in boxes, vibrations of cabinets, stray sound waves bouncing around inside a driver box or a room, dirty power lines, fuses choking the amount of energy available to your equipment vs safety, etc, etc, etc.... How about an analogy of not cleaning your records ever? Oh I suppose that can be seen as finger smudges. Ok, how about Zero stat? Do you go there? Light pollution from within a Disc & an electrical charge on the surface of vinyl, are you able to see that comparison? I just need to leave you flat worlders alone, it's not right to be tormenting you within this safe paradigm of yours. I must seem as a space alien coming down into your world telling you your not the centre of the universe
Can we just stop with the whole black marker on a CD snake oil BS?
Compact Disc audio is defined by IEC 60908 standard. The requirement is that the optical pits provide sufficient SNR for the 780nm diode laser and silicon photodiode to receive the digital encoding and error correction bit stream using on-the-fly cross-iterleaved Reed-Solomon encoding. It is very robust and needs no help from a black marker. You either get the signal or you don't. The signal if successfully decoded is 16-bit 44.1kHz PCM - easily digested by the DAC of choice. End of story. Choice of DAC, output op amps, noise level of the DAC PSU, etc can have impact on signal quality. But certainly at the optical front end - it's binary. You either have the digital stream for the music or you don't.
+1
Compact Disc audio is defined by IEC 60908 standard. The requirement is that the optical pits provide sufficient SNR for the 780nm diode laser and silicon photodiode to receive the digital encoding and error correction bit stream using on-the-fly cross-iterleaved Reed-Solomon encoding. It is very robust and needs no help from a black marker. You either get the signal or you don't. The signal if successfully decoded is 16-bit 44.1kHz PCM - easily digested by the DAC of choice. End of story. Choice of DAC, output op amps, noise level of the DAC PSU, etc can have impact on signal quality. But certainly at the optical front end - it's binary. You either have the digital stream for the music or you don't.
+1
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.