What do members of diyAudio use as music players?

I'd be fine with that if my headphones were not as efficient as they are.

The https://www.cirrus.com/products/cs43131/ is an outstanding DAC-headamp for a dongle mobile feast. But it puts out 2V and 30mW into 32ohm IEMs with too much gain for some IEMs and then some dongles add an amp on with way too much gain.

Look for an CS43131 dongle with gain control and lower output with volume control on the dongle eg
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The glue you must be on to think it costs hundred of dollars to use a BT 5.0 device with good results...
I need a good high... Maybe that glue would do it for me...
People use tubes because they work. And you don't need to use druids' magic to make it happen. No tube had ever acted like a fuse because it was looked at wrong... OK that's an exaggeration... Still compared to tubes, solid state parts are easy to damage without physical shock.
 
Perhaps I mis-interpreted your post? I didn't see the rest of the tread WRT to this... Was it sarcasm? Obviously the 5000$ power cable was facetious, but some people here stand by that kind of crap 🙂

My bluetooth set up cost more than 2$ I want LDAP from a distance... If I'm going to use Bluetooth, it won't be SBC.
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I use JRiver for library management mostly and Roon for media serving and playback. There are Rpi4's with audio hats as end points, Topping D90 soon to be replaced when I get my diyAudio Celibidache order! 🙂 Sadly, there are amps, speakers or headphones pretty much anywhere in the house & office which we can stream or play from any phone or tablets we use for home control.
 
Foobar on laptops, but don't like the interface. I'd prefer an interface like what is on Apple Music.
This reminds me of the wild times back in the end of 90ies, when digital and internet began to have its impact. Itunes was version 1.x, and most everything was better than it.
I used audion, a funny mediaplayer whith a completely opensource interface.
Boy these were crazy stuff 😂, but absolutely mp3, and this reply very much OT-gossip 🙂

https://panic.com/extras/audionstory/popup-images/popup-audionfaces.jpg
 
Raspberry Pi 3B with an Allo Boss DAC 'hat' running Moode Audio. Analog audio outs connect to the control 'preamp', just like you would connect a CD player to an ordinary stereo in the 1980s.

I have the Rpi connected by Ethernet to my home network so I can control it from my browser while I'm working, etc. I can also access it wireless from my phone, but my phone's an Android so I had to type in the actual IP address rather than just "moode/local" because Android has a problem with DNS resolution that way. Small annoyance, and will probably be a thing of the past when I have to go to the next phone...

I have lots of hi-res PCM and DSD files stored on an HDD connected to the Raspberry Pi through a powered USB hub, so the Rpi's PSU only powers the Rpi and Boss DAC. The Rpi USB does not power the HDD. That way I was able to repurpose a current-hungry old HDD from a laptop for storage of media files. Cheap.
 
On my macmini, I couldn‘t get rid of a annoying USB-noise. It obviously instantly went away when I finally got a spdif capable DAC (cambridge dac100, which is quite nice).
Next step will be to hook up a DIY dac I got from a veteran member!
 
Foobar is one of the greatest DIYaudio resources. But like all DIYaudio you will need to launch in and be experimental in your approach. Foobar is highly configurable. There are plugins that can make changes akin to hardware changes like preamp SS to tube like timbrel shifts.

If you do an Internet search you will find all you need. If you want Foobar to look like Apple search Foobar skin Apple under images. If you want an iphone app for Foobar remote just install the app of your choice.
I was able to get the "Monkeymote" app to remotely control the foobar2000. I had to adjust some network and firewall configs, but is working. Thx.
 
Thanks @kevinkr and @kazap, I'll try both of those apps. Unfortunately I'd need to copy over all my music to my phone and even then I'd still have bad audio from all other apps.
@brig001 I thought about a simple resistor devider. That would be my measure of last resort.
Look for an CS43131 dongle with gain control and lower output with volume control on the dongle eg
I actually like the simplicity of hooking up my IEMs to a DAC that takes 32bit integer samples and shoving the volume control issue up the software stack.
I use this for HD audio...
Magisk module
https://github.com/yzyhk904/audio-misc-settings
Now we're talking. This is the solution I was looking for: Just make the darned phone spit out either 24bit or 32bit integers from a software pipeline that works with 32bit float. Just like all the sane operating system do it.

Of course, this comes with quite a bit of yak shaving - getting root on the phone, magisk installed and then setting the system wide resampler to something non-idiotic, but it will give me peace of mind and I'll be able to use a system wide convolver. Thanks for this, it seems to be what I was looking for, even if I need to invest some time and learn more about android in the process. Once again, I'm done derailing the thread. We will now continue to our scheduled programming.
My bluetooth set up cost more than 2$ I want LDAP from a distance... If I'm going to use Bluetooth, it won't be SBC.
You run linux, right? SBC-XQ might be worth looking into. Basically, the Linux (or LineageOS Android) BT audio stack is able to crank up the bitrate that the SBC codec uses by a huge amount, in effect giving it enough bandwidth to sound transparent. This works with almost anything that supports bluetooth, as it's just a creative way of interpreting the standard that all BT devices have to adhere to. Might be an alternative to expensive LDAC gear.
 
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My ears are good for about 13 bits and 15KHz, so a 16bits@44KHz is fine. I have ~no recordings that use more. But often apparent differences are a malfunction, and not fidelity. A modest system that just works like it's supposed to is all I need. For example, my TV is an LG that has a lot of "enhancement" processing, that actually just degrades the image. It's telling that the user interface is poorly organized and illogical. 99% of problems are due to incompetence, not modest specs.
 
I think the easiest I can explain is by pointing to the Fixing the Stereo Phantom Center thread. I think I must have tried each and every kind of trickery mentioned in that thread and ended up with a combination of a few of those things. Done with (some linear phase) equalizer plugins, some mid/side techniques and other stuff. (*)
I've explained most of in in my own thread, but that has grown to impossible proportions to wade trough. I guess searching my thread for mid/side or cross talk should help get to the bottom of it much quicker. I've tried most of the plugins that were available over on ambiophonics.org. My intention with pointing towards the "Fixing ..." thread is not derailing this thread once again, so I'll shut up now. Feel free to discus it more in depth on @Pano or my thread though.

(*) As JRiver accepts plugins, I added Metaplugin, a VST plugin host program, much like Bidule. Plugins like these offer the freedom to route your audio at will however you see fit.
Any reason for metaplugin when jriver allows any plugin? What is the advantage? I use plugins when I feel like it in jriver with no problem other than the 64 bit version of jriver cannot use 32 bit plugins, which it seems metaplugin can, but is this the only advantage?
 
It isn't a problem to load plugins within JRiver, but in Metaplugin I can route the audio which ever way I want to. For instance to do mid/side trickery or some other fancy stuff, like a bit of anti-cross talk added to the phantom center only. Metaplugin can bridge between 32 bit and 64 bit, but I haven't been succesful with it with all plugins. I'm currently testing a few plugins due to a recent move to 64 bit JRiver. Up until a few months ago I was still using the 32 bit version.
Not all plugins I used before play nice in 64 bit sadly enough.

An example of some of the (extreme) routing I use:
Routing.jpg


This is Left/Right getting split into Mid/Side (and back) plus a touch of anti-cross talk (+ an alternative shuffler), subwoofer routing and finally ambience/Haas kicker mixing.