A nice guy offered to fix my good looking but dead Yamaha DX7ii. I tried to help but whatever we did gave no result. With Gray Matter installed the synth received MIDI-streams but to sound. With it removed and a EPROM with the original s/w it made noises but no MIDI ...
The issue was me mounting the replacement battery in a fashion it was shorted when the lid came on.
Gray Matter surgically removed, new EPROM battery fix and ...
The issue was me mounting the replacement battery in a fashion it was shorted when the lid came on.
Gray Matter surgically removed, new EPROM battery fix and ...
Didnt repair it...
Ryobi gas trimmer, FREE at yard sale. Guy said "carburetor". How hard can it be? I was about to be shown...
Problem actually was weak spark. Never got even a single pop outta the thing.
Took it apart and noticed a discernable shift in the coil mounting, where one side of the magnet armature circuit was practically touching the rotor magnet, the other waaay off, maybe 3/16".
So I adjusted it using a thick piece of paper to even things up. Gap even and close, no touch. Magnet strong - can feel its force. Put it all back together and expected a start on first pull. Nothing.
Off switch grounds the coil, check its open in run position and operational. Disconnect the wires completely, still nothing. Noticed the armature of the coil suspended on plastic washers, replaced with metal. Still nothing but a faint spark when pulled hard and fast. Observed in two different plugs.
Put it all back together, FREE sign, down by the side of the boulevard it goes, with proper diagnosis written "no spark". Good Luck, to whomever picks it. They can buy a new coil; pretty sure if I did and replaced it, still nothing. 2020 manufacture date, unit in overall nice shape too.
Decided I just dont have the time in life anymore to chase ghosts in cheap machinery.
Ryobi gas trimmer, FREE at yard sale. Guy said "carburetor". How hard can it be? I was about to be shown...
Problem actually was weak spark. Never got even a single pop outta the thing.
Took it apart and noticed a discernable shift in the coil mounting, where one side of the magnet armature circuit was practically touching the rotor magnet, the other waaay off, maybe 3/16".
So I adjusted it using a thick piece of paper to even things up. Gap even and close, no touch. Magnet strong - can feel its force. Put it all back together and expected a start on first pull. Nothing.
Off switch grounds the coil, check its open in run position and operational. Disconnect the wires completely, still nothing. Noticed the armature of the coil suspended on plastic washers, replaced with metal. Still nothing but a faint spark when pulled hard and fast. Observed in two different plugs.
Put it all back together, FREE sign, down by the side of the boulevard it goes, with proper diagnosis written "no spark". Good Luck, to whomever picks it. They can buy a new coil; pretty sure if I did and replaced it, still nothing. 2020 manufacture date, unit in overall nice shape too.
Decided I just dont have the time in life anymore to chase ghosts in cheap machinery.
Ignition coil trigger circuit, may be points or electronic. Faults in those could have been the issue.
Corrosion in wires is a known issue, and spare parts are so expensive that you did the right thing, only cheap way is to salvage parts from a unit with a different fault...if you have the time and patience.
Replaced the fan motor capacitor on my ancient (1992) window air conditioner.
Took some time, there were joints between flying leads of motor and the capacitor, which was soldered to its lugs.
So soldered leads, and found more work.
Did a decent job, put sleeves on joints, later will open the soldering, make proper joint to flying leads, heat shrink tube over that.
It is back in action, a relief when it is 42 C ambient.
Corrosion in wires is a known issue, and spare parts are so expensive that you did the right thing, only cheap way is to salvage parts from a unit with a different fault...if you have the time and patience.
Replaced the fan motor capacitor on my ancient (1992) window air conditioner.
Took some time, there were joints between flying leads of motor and the capacitor, which was soldered to its lugs.
So soldered leads, and found more work.
Did a decent job, put sleeves on joints, later will open the soldering, make proper joint to flying leads, heat shrink tube over that.
It is back in action, a relief when it is 42 C ambient.
Not repaired.... Used a new DAC with my Pass XA160.5 diy version......
Wondered about hum noise.... Opened the case and wondered about those jumpers at the UGS module...
Took these out and after switching on again hum was gone...
Seems I used the amp for about 8 years with bridged dc blocker....
Wondered about hum noise.... Opened the case and wondered about those jumpers at the UGS module...
Took these out and after switching on again hum was gone...
Seems I used the amp for about 8 years with bridged dc blocker....
This sounds like it may become a rough read. Let's start with how much electronic experience have you had, and what tools are available to you. You will need reference to probably at least a schematic, and own a multi-meter.
I have not really won the battle yet. This is a picture of an air conditioning clutch on my oldest kids car. Was the one car out of four we have that had working AC. Just had to post the lovely photo after I pulled the pulley out.
My youngest kid drove it from Denver to Arizona and had the alternator light go on about 600 miles away. Initial diagnosis over the phone was there was no alternator belt. He wound up stuck in some small town on a holiday weekend so I jumped in the car with an alternator and a spare belt. Turns out the compressor clutch froze and the belt went bye bye. Had to get a belt that would bypass the compressor though the closest was another 60 miles away. Got the car working and the kid was able to complete his mission.
The bearing race is still stuck on the compressor and may take some gentle drilling/grinding to get off.
My youngest kid drove it from Denver to Arizona and had the alternator light go on about 600 miles away. Initial diagnosis over the phone was there was no alternator belt. He wound up stuck in some small town on a holiday weekend so I jumped in the car with an alternator and a spare belt. Turns out the compressor clutch froze and the belt went bye bye. Had to get a belt that would bypass the compressor though the closest was another 60 miles away. Got the car working and the kid was able to complete his mission.
The bearing race is still stuck on the compressor and may take some gentle drilling/grinding to get off.
I think it may be a good idea to buy another compressor, and get it replaced by a technician with gas recovery system, the existing one may be worn out or damaged for the mechanism to be frozen this way.
A frozen sealed bearing means it is at least 5 years old, there is rust on the splines as well.
My car has a double pulley, one is for A/c, the other for water pump and alternator.
Long back, different car, A/c belt broke, was able to get home at night after removing broken belt bits.
If you have access to CO2 gas, or nitrogen, spary to freeze the metal, it will shrink ever so slightly and come off easily. Better if you have a puller.
Then check the compressor, you may lose the gas, expensive, so suggested technician.
A frozen sealed bearing means it is at least 5 years old, there is rust on the splines as well.
My car has a double pulley, one is for A/c, the other for water pump and alternator.
Long back, different car, A/c belt broke, was able to get home at night after removing broken belt bits.
If you have access to CO2 gas, or nitrogen, spary to freeze the metal, it will shrink ever so slightly and come off easily. Better if you have a puller.
Then check the compressor, you may lose the gas, expensive, so suggested technician.
I find it admirable in this day that someone goes to the length that you did to make it work for the time being. We live in an age where some people will drive on a flat tire to the point that they ruin the rim, to a tire shop so that a professional can do the rest. We have all seen it.
The clutch was $35 on amazon. I had the hope that I could just replace the clutch and not mess with recovery and a charge. Maybe the new compressor option was better though.
I will give it another go after I re roof part of my house. Just 600 square feet and I also have 18 and 25 year old kids to help.
I will give it another go after I re roof part of my house. Just 600 square feet and I also have 18 and 25 year old kids to help.
Man, I took advantage of my 3 kids when they were younger for help like that. Couldn't have done that stuff without them. Roofing is tough no matter how it's done. It seems that just about any project that I choose to tackle becomes way more than first thought. That is just life. You want it done right, you are on your own. My latest project was the placing of a fence. post. 3 days later, I'm done. Done right. Solid as a rock.
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If the compressor has failed, check the maker's data, some compressor families have the same housing, but slightly different displacement (given as volume per rotation).
Put a bigger volume unit, it will cool faster.
Or you could salvage one at the breaking yard (or its equivalent). Good choice for an old car you intend to replace in the near future.
Put a bigger volume unit, it will cool faster.
Or you could salvage one at the breaking yard (or its equivalent). Good choice for an old car you intend to replace in the near future.