Got to be be shorted between turns then. Makes transformers do similar things. Poor power transfer, heat, buzzing……
I would check the windings, before that switch and suppressor.
Looks like a broken wire, where to locate the fault is the big question mark.
In any case, even if spare armature / stator is available, may be cheaper to buy a used one than rebuild an old worn out (in other places) unit, your call. And it is sale season, look around.
When I was in construction, my flooring / tiles contractor always had one of his four marble cutters in the shop...Hitachi CM-4SA , and copies, the design was bad, they changed it later.
If you looked at it from the blade side, it was rotating clockwise, and as the worker pushed the machine into the cut, the sludge would go up inside and damage the bearings, armature would fail.
They changed the rotation direction to anti clockwise later.
I told him to pull the machine, so the sludge would go down, as in the big machines at my uncle's granite plant, did not listen... I used to do that, never had a burned armature.
A friend brought in a blower, and I found the bearing had seized, and was rotating in the housing, workers had used it to vacuum abrasive material, and those blowers use the air from the main impeller to cool the armature, go figure. I made it work temporarily, told him to buy another, it was like $12 for a good one ($6 for a cheap one) in those days.
Looks like a broken wire, where to locate the fault is the big question mark.
In any case, even if spare armature / stator is available, may be cheaper to buy a used one than rebuild an old worn out (in other places) unit, your call. And it is sale season, look around.
When I was in construction, my flooring / tiles contractor always had one of his four marble cutters in the shop...Hitachi CM-4SA , and copies, the design was bad, they changed it later.
If you looked at it from the blade side, it was rotating clockwise, and as the worker pushed the machine into the cut, the sludge would go up inside and damage the bearings, armature would fail.
They changed the rotation direction to anti clockwise later.
I told him to pull the machine, so the sludge would go down, as in the big machines at my uncle's granite plant, did not listen... I used to do that, never had a burned armature.
A friend brought in a blower, and I found the bearing had seized, and was rotating in the housing, workers had used it to vacuum abrasive material, and those blowers use the air from the main impeller to cool the armature, go figure. I made it work temporarily, told him to buy another, it was like $12 for a good one ($6 for a cheap one) in those days.
We have people here who can rewind armatures, quality can be bad, balancing is also done.
And spares - sets or single - armature / stator are also available.
The original armatures have good laminations and shafts, the cheapo spares are not so good, so winding is a decent option.
And spares - sets or single - armature / stator are also available.
The original armatures have good laminations and shafts, the cheapo spares are not so good, so winding is a decent option.
Just as a 'finishing touch', I have added a 1uF / 2KV capacitor to the power lead of my fridge. ( across Active & Neutral )
Be very very careful about anything like that. Just because a cap is 2kV rated does not mean it is suitable for connection across the mains. There are special types of cap available for this.
https://www.dekielectronics.com/pdf/deki-application-notes-class-x-class-y-capacitors.pdf
How long has it been since you’ve seen a 2KV film or ceramic cap that isn’t X-rated and have CE/TUV/CSA/UR safety certs? Last batch of 3 and 6 KV ceramics I bought (from a surplus house) for tube amp power supply and OPT snubbers were. So we’re the 400V MKPs (for motor application, and cheaper than Solen let alone the crazy audiophile brands).
Wife came home saying her car was shaking and running terribly and CEL came on while driving. I pulled codes and found misfire on cylinder 1 (engine was obviously missing, could tell from the sound). This car is coil over plug with multi-port injection so my mind immediately figured it must be spark plug, coil, or a stuck injector. Given that it failed while she was driving my money was on the coil. Cleared the codes and swapped the #1 and #3 coils. Started engine, noted the same misfire and CEL lights. This time ECU code says misfire has moved to cylinder 3. AHA! Bought a new coil, slapped it on, cleared the codes and all is good again.
At least you can get to the coils without tearing the whole thing apart. Try that with the 6.2 liter Ford. It’s a $2000 tune up that fortunately only has to be done once in its lifetime. It’s damn near all day for the shop. It would send me to the funny farm jacking with it off and on for a week. I had a #4 misfiring on me at 140k miles on the beater truck after wrestling the 2WD out of a mud bog. I was about ready to say “just do the works”, but my mechanic insisted I just try replacing the #4 coil FIRST. He pulled (and replaced) the plug too, because the labor to get to either is more than the parts, but it looked damn near brand new. Chances are the rest were fine, and no check engine after another 20k.
I loved the old straight 6, even if it needed new plugs every 50k.
I loved the old straight 6, even if it needed new plugs every 50k.
....or another annoying thing - the 'coil pack' where all coils are joined together and you can't test as above, nor replace just one. I look after two cars like this (mine and my daughter's) and both have needed replacements. My wife's car has separate coils, but has never needed one.
I totally lost interest in engines after 8 cyl engines weren't installed in my cars. I miss the rumble and all kinds of taxable horsepower.
Trying to work on these new things would just annoy me.
Trying to work on these new things would just annoy me.
On that 6.2L the coil packs are two per cylinder. 16 coils, 16 plugs and all of it is as hard to get to as the predriver transistor in a Crest CA18.
But by the time you need the 3rd set of coils and plugs it’s time to decommission it anyway - for basic safety reasons if nothing else. The 2nd set is the tuffy - it’s going to be in too good a shape to trash but not cheap to do.
But by the time you need the 3rd set of coils and plugs it’s time to decommission it anyway - for basic safety reasons if nothing else. The 2nd set is the tuffy - it’s going to be in too good a shape to trash but not cheap to do.
What you need to drive is a Chrysler 300 or Newport with a 440 cid engine. (yeah, I'm that old to remember them brand new) Easy to keep running. Will tow anything. lol!
Honestly, things shouldn't be that difficult. The engineers who set out the specs for the design should be lined up and shot. Remember when changing the two plugs second from the rear on a 318 cid engine was considered difficult?
Honestly, things shouldn't be that difficult. The engineers who set out the specs for the design should be lined up and shot. Remember when changing the two plugs second from the rear on a 318 cid engine was considered difficult?
“Lined up and shot” was exactly what my mechanic said. When I had the old straight 6 I worked on it myself. Period. Somewhere around 120k on the 4.6L V8 I gave up and just paid the piper for everything. It was bad enough. Now I’ve got two of those 6.2L (a 2012 and a 17) and they go to a shop for everything except batteries, wiper blades and light bulbs. When the ‘12 becomes too much of a money pit it will just end up as a farm truck that never leaves the property.
I call it irresponsible design. The same can be said for class D amps that cannot be repaired, and any electronics you can't work on easily. There is simply no excuse.
Yep, I rebuilt my engines back in the day, and they ran forever. Most things on my cars I repaired myself (except rust!). Mind you, I don't miss grease under my fingernails and skinned knuckles! lol!
We had all this stuff sorted out in the 1970's and 1980's.
Yep, I rebuilt my engines back in the day, and they ran forever. Most things on my cars I repaired myself (except rust!). Mind you, I don't miss grease under my fingernails and skinned knuckles! lol!
We had all this stuff sorted out in the 1970's and 1980's.
If that particular engine wasn’t as reliable as it is their customers would have stormed the factory with pitchforks a long time ago. Or abandoned the F series in wholesale.
All these class D amps would be 100 times more reliable if they just put a damn heat sink on it instead of blowing a 2” fan directly across the PCB. Even if it normally doesn’t run hot. They run 95-97% efficiency at “normal listening volumes”, but when run hard efficiency can drop below 90 and the temperatures hockey-stick. AB gracefully run hotter and hotter, and have enough heat sink to deal with it at least for a few minutes at a time.
All these class D amps would be 100 times more reliable if they just put a damn heat sink on it instead of blowing a 2” fan directly across the PCB. Even if it normally doesn’t run hot. They run 95-97% efficiency at “normal listening volumes”, but when run hard efficiency can drop below 90 and the temperatures hockey-stick. AB gracefully run hotter and hotter, and have enough heat sink to deal with it at least for a few minutes at a time.
Hyundai and Toyota engines, what is your experience and opinion?
They seem well built and well laid out for easy service to me.
No ties, except that I am planning to buy a SUV for a long road trip, choices are Mahindra (software issues) Tata (Hmmm quality, parts issues), Toyota and Hyundai.
They seem well built and well laid out for easy service to me.
No ties, except that I am planning to buy a SUV for a long road trip, choices are Mahindra (software issues) Tata (Hmmm quality, parts issues), Toyota and Hyundai.
Actually, some of the Class D amp technical notes have a drawing that shows the heat sink of the chip soldered to one plane of the PCB, which acts like a heat sink.
Maybe the amp board sellers could have a heat sink kit for sale, which needs thermal glue, and that is another headache, it can go solid just sitting there without opening.
Mechanical heat sink would need hole placement planning in advance, overall more reliable than thermal glue IMO.
Maybe the amp board sellers could have a heat sink kit for sale, which needs thermal glue, and that is another headache, it can go solid just sitting there without opening.
Mechanical heat sink would need hole placement planning in advance, overall more reliable than thermal glue IMO.