Bob!!! Anything biting close to shore now?
Oh yeah, and it knows me well! But I could sleep standing up outside in a rainstorm.
...unless my wife can't sleep. 😉
Wiseoldtech -
Oh yeah, and it knows me well! But I could sleep standing up outside in a rainstorm.
...unless my wife can't sleep. 😉
Wiseoldtech -
Trout and reds were hitting good in the backwater tributaries, but rivers are flooding now due to so much rain up your way and too rough to go offshore so not too much going on right at the moment.
Sheepshead should be in at bridge pilings and jetty rocks, but I’ve not heard any action yet.
Sheepshead should be in at bridge pilings and jetty rocks, but I’ve not heard any action yet.
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Thanks Bob! We may run down to Shell Point this weekend, just wondering what we might find in the canals...
if I were a fish I’d consider every bad day of fishin that came my way better.
But ‘better’ is subjective, and without LMDBT results it’s just an opinion! 😉
But ‘better’ is subjective, and without LMDBT results it’s just an opinion! 😉
Just fixed a Sony ICF-SW35 radio (FM, SW, MW, LW).
With a CXA1522P power amp and a 'reversed' volume control, a break in the control line caused one volume setting only: maximum.
Fixed the track (wire) and added a resistor over the potentiometer so setting volume had a wider range also (instead of yell-level at only 10%).
Bonus: the headphone output happened to be in stereo!
With a CXA1522P power amp and a 'reversed' volume control, a break in the control line caused one volume setting only: maximum.
Fixed the track (wire) and added a resistor over the potentiometer so setting volume had a wider range also (instead of yell-level at only 10%).
Bonus: the headphone output happened to be in stereo!
power connector on a rockpro64 pine single board. it got a shaky contact. first i tried to solder the 3 pins. then i tried to desoilder the whole thing (2h...) ended up cutting the connector per force and added a 2 cable extension from board to the working parts of the connector. i ask why China why?
Currently I'm servicing a 1972 vintage Sansui 5000X receiver for someone.
Has multiple issues, some due to age, others due to amateur-unprofessional paws being in it.
Makes my work harder and longer to complete.
But once it's done, it'll be up to spec again, and more reliable than if it were new.
Of course!
Has multiple issues, some due to age, others due to amateur-unprofessional paws being in it.
Makes my work harder and longer to complete.
But once it's done, it'll be up to spec again, and more reliable than if it were new.
Of course!
That photo is on my service bench this evening.
Indeed, the amp is utterly free of any dirt and corrosion usually found on such things.
It works, has some intermittent slide switches, and a fresh set of "England" Westinghouse 6GW8's and rectifier.
It's all original..... so far.
Damn. Very nice. Every piece of vintage tube equipment I've acquired seemingly was from a smoker's house. Full of layers of grime. The kind you scrap away instead of blow away with an air compressor or something.
Not to mention the surface rust, insect carcasses, spider webs, traces of mouse-droppings, and mysterious oblong things stuck to the chassis that might have once been insect eggs. 😱
I agree, this one is extraordinarily clean!
-Gnobuddy
I want to change out the coupling caps, any other "critical" caps, remove the 2 death caps, and install a polarized line cord.
Also those intermittent slide switches need attention, particularly the 8-16 ohm speaker selector in the rear.
And those nasty old screw terminal speaker strips need to go!.... some nice 5 way posts would be nice.
The pots are clean, no scratchiness.
Neon pilot light is bad too - I want to change it into a red LED inserted into the original lamp housing to preserve originality. (fed from DC of course)
I'm a bit concerned with the B+ though... at the rated 115VAC, it's fine, B+ 297V per spec/schematic, but running off 123VAC in my house it creeps up to 335V B+ - methinks the output tubes are gonna run hotter.
Also those intermittent slide switches need attention, particularly the 8-16 ohm speaker selector in the rear.
And those nasty old screw terminal speaker strips need to go!.... some nice 5 way posts would be nice.
The pots are clean, no scratchiness.
Neon pilot light is bad too - I want to change it into a red LED inserted into the original lamp housing to preserve originality. (fed from DC of course)
I'm a bit concerned with the B+ though... at the rated 115VAC, it's fine, B+ 297V per spec/schematic, but running off 123VAC in my house it creeps up to 335V B+ - methinks the output tubes are gonna run hotter.
Finished after a week of solid work!
One Sansui AU-111 in average condition except a rough face plate. The customer is having a new one made. This was a complete rebuild. All resistors replaced except for the tone controls and other locations that don't see any DC current. Capacitors replaced and the power supply still looks more or less stock. Every part was completely removed and the new one installed like the old part was, that's what takes all the time. The customer is due in this week to pick it up and I'm anxious to hear his impressions. I did upgrade the phono amp with modern, low noise transistors while I was at it. That section is pretty quiet now. One complete set of Electroharmonix tubes.
There is nothing on the 'net about bias levels for the outputs, or which control sets up which tube. So that was all mapped out and I set it up for 35 mA. That's slightly cool, but he is moving out west and if his power supply voltage is higher out there, he will be closer to what I would target as 40 mA. I had to use bias sockets with this one, there is no skimping on that.
Sorry about the second last picture being dark. That's the entire chassis. The last picture shows the general condition of the chassis, on the lower left you can see the power supply rebuilt.
One thing that is too bad is that just the shipping, duties and taxes on the two filter capacitors and some extra odds and sods came to about $80. That's like two extra filter capacitors. That shoots an estimate price all to heck.
-Chris
One Sansui AU-111 in average condition except a rough face plate. The customer is having a new one made. This was a complete rebuild. All resistors replaced except for the tone controls and other locations that don't see any DC current. Capacitors replaced and the power supply still looks more or less stock. Every part was completely removed and the new one installed like the old part was, that's what takes all the time. The customer is due in this week to pick it up and I'm anxious to hear his impressions. I did upgrade the phono amp with modern, low noise transistors while I was at it. That section is pretty quiet now. One complete set of Electroharmonix tubes.
There is nothing on the 'net about bias levels for the outputs, or which control sets up which tube. So that was all mapped out and I set it up for 35 mA. That's slightly cool, but he is moving out west and if his power supply voltage is higher out there, he will be closer to what I would target as 40 mA. I had to use bias sockets with this one, there is no skimping on that.
Sorry about the second last picture being dark. That's the entire chassis. The last picture shows the general condition of the chassis, on the lower left you can see the power supply rebuilt.
One thing that is too bad is that just the shipping, duties and taxes on the two filter capacitors and some extra odds and sods came to about $80. That's like two extra filter capacitors. That shoots an estimate price all to heck.
-Chris
Attachments
Hi wiseoldtech,
I think you should leave the original cord on it unless it is damaged or deteriorated. Polarized line cords don't buy you anything except frustration if the house has old AC sockets, and there is never any certainty as to whether the socket is wired correctly.
If the original cord is toast, then you have no choice but to use a polarized line cord as they don't sell anything else.
That other unit was in very nice condition. Doesn't it feel great to work on stuff in good condition and not hacked?
-Chris
I think you should leave the original cord on it unless it is damaged or deteriorated. Polarized line cords don't buy you anything except frustration if the house has old AC sockets, and there is never any certainty as to whether the socket is wired correctly.
If the original cord is toast, then you have no choice but to use a polarized line cord as they don't sell anything else.
That other unit was in very nice condition. Doesn't it feel great to work on stuff in good condition and not hacked?
-Chris
Changing the volume pot on my ATC SPA2, gluing a piece of perspex onto it to allow neatness and cable clamping, and rewiring some other areas to tidy it up.
I made a helical coil of wire, with which the rotating LED is fed rather than the loose bit of cable waving around as it was originally. It took a lot of optimising.
I drilled the stainless case of the Alps pot, and molysliped the drive cogs, audibly better after a few sweeps, less noise, less wear, longer life.
I'm guessing it is my last preamp, but the Benchmark beckons.
I made a helical coil of wire, with which the rotating LED is fed rather than the loose bit of cable waving around as it was originally. It took a lot of optimising.
I drilled the stainless case of the Alps pot, and molysliped the drive cogs, audibly better after a few sweeps, less noise, less wear, longer life.
I'm guessing it is my last preamp, but the Benchmark beckons.