Duals are some of the best players out there - at least the older ones.
If you hate that 701, toss it to me.......LOL!
My neighbor's got a 701 in absolutely flawless condition, overhauled by me last year.
I doubt he'll ever give it up. 😡
I have try to repair this.. laser engraver machine.
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Samsung 32" flat screen TV model UN32J4000AFXZA
23 months after purchase in 2017, got where it wouldn't turn on. Flexing input board would make it work one time. Couldn't trace board from switch, multilayer. Replacement board from ebay fixed that problem, but that one wouldn't turn off. That can be dealt with the AC power strip. $35, take that sleazebag manufacturer.
Ribbon cable was tricky, broke the first board end by trying to pry the ends off. New board tried prying the black part up, turns out it was a latch. !
Working on a B&K 2120 scope now, horizontal sweep won't move since an hour after I bought it 10 years ago. Took 3 hours to get the glue off the front panel shafts and remove them to turn the pcb upside down. Thought removing glue might be impossible.
23 months after purchase in 2017, got where it wouldn't turn on. Flexing input board would make it work one time. Couldn't trace board from switch, multilayer. Replacement board from ebay fixed that problem, but that one wouldn't turn off. That can be dealt with the AC power strip. $35, take that sleazebag manufacturer.
Ribbon cable was tricky, broke the first board end by trying to pry the ends off. New board tried prying the black part up, turns out it was a latch. !
Working on a B&K 2120 scope now, horizontal sweep won't move since an hour after I bought it 10 years ago. Took 3 hours to get the glue off the front panel shafts and remove them to turn the pcb upside down. Thought removing glue might be impossible.
That's true. Prices on that stuff are insane and quality of sound ...well. I did not pay more than about ten dollars at the flea market thou.
Not really fixed yet. Did a recording and it was horrible!
Its purdy to look at and its a hobby, so--😉
My backup sump pump has died. Pump is locked up and blows a 20 amp fuse. There is a bunch of snow on the ground, but it should stay below freezing and cloudy for a few more days.
Fought round one today and lost. Round two tomorrow.
Fought round one today and lost. Round two tomorrow.
Lost round two today.
It seems that you can not separate the two pumps while they are still down in the well. The plumbers who installed this however, took a short cut and glued all the PVC together. I plan to cut the pipe and lift the entire two pump - two float assembly out of the sump well, but I am waiting from the rubber coupler that should have been there in the first place to arrive. Maybe Friday....if the rain hasn't returned.
It seems that you can not separate the two pumps while they are still down in the well. The plumbers who installed this however, took a short cut and glued all the PVC together. I plan to cut the pipe and lift the entire two pump - two float assembly out of the sump well, but I am waiting from the rubber coupler that should have been there in the first place to arrive. Maybe Friday....if the rain hasn't returned.
LCD screen. How to repair them ?
I had one that was more and more hard to turn on, finally failed, I was enable to repair it.
Nothing I could find at buttons and at the power supply.
I have another screen going the same. A Bellinea 22 inches. At computer start, the monitor comes on after ages and a restart, sometimes it helps to unplug, replug the monitor. Once started, all is fine.
I like it's picture quality...Can I save it ?
Any tip ? Any guess ? Black magic ?
I had one that was more and more hard to turn on, finally failed, I was enable to repair it.
Nothing I could find at buttons and at the power supply.
I have another screen going the same. A Bellinea 22 inches. At computer start, the monitor comes on after ages and a restart, sometimes it helps to unplug, replug the monitor. Once started, all is fine.
I like it's picture quality...Can I save it ?
Any tip ? Any guess ? Black magic ?
Late last night I could finally say, that I repaired the sump system. It required cutting the pipe and hauling 25 pounds of pumps, floats and check valves out of the sump well.
Once out and cleaned, I found that the pumps were bolted to the plastic boot with Walmart quality cast metal screws. After 5 years of life under some muddy nasty water the Phillips receptacles turned round with the first attempt to remove them. Mr. Dremel made the rusty heads vanish rather quickly.
It looks like the system will be tested soon. There is a storm the size of Michigan coming this way with rain and snow in our forecast for the next 5 days.
Once out and cleaned, I found that the pumps were bolted to the plastic boot with Walmart quality cast metal screws. After 5 years of life under some muddy nasty water the Phillips receptacles turned round with the first attempt to remove them. Mr. Dremel made the rusty heads vanish rather quickly.
It looks like the system will be tested soon. There is a storm the size of Michigan coming this way with rain and snow in our forecast for the next 5 days.
Tonight in the wind and rain the hot water heater. Seemed like the flame detection was not working. igniter lit the flame went for a while then would just shut off the gas solenoid.
Swapped in a spare control module (I have a few, scavenged from dead ones thrown out around the suburb). Seems to be working ok now.
Have been trying to work out how it works. There is a single wire to the igniter / flame sensor, I assume once it detects flame there is a small current flowing in that wire to ground. The only thing connected to the ignitor on the board that seems a possible suspect is a sensitive gate thyristor MCR 22-6 no longer available... But I'm not sure if it is used to trigger the spark or to detect the flame... Anyway it's working, but I would like to be able to fix the fault in the controller if I can. Last one I fixed it was a transistor that drove the relay coil for the gas solenoid relay... I guess it is possible that the flame sensor itself is the problem and one control module is a little more sensitive than the others...
Tony.
Swapped in a spare control module (I have a few, scavenged from dead ones thrown out around the suburb). Seems to be working ok now.
Have been trying to work out how it works. There is a single wire to the igniter / flame sensor, I assume once it detects flame there is a small current flowing in that wire to ground. The only thing connected to the ignitor on the board that seems a possible suspect is a sensitive gate thyristor MCR 22-6 no longer available... But I'm not sure if it is used to trigger the spark or to detect the flame... Anyway it's working, but I would like to be able to fix the fault in the controller if I can. Last one I fixed it was a transistor that drove the relay coil for the gas solenoid relay... I guess it is possible that the flame sensor itself is the problem and one control module is a little more sensitive than the others...
Tony.
About flame detection. Some years ago I fixed an industrial heater/oven that was used for soldering copper whatevers. It also wouldn't ignite or stay lit.
The porcelain insulators of the igniters or the spark plugs were dirty and lost the insulation function.
I am lazy so I told the factory people to clean the hell out of the insulators and that fixed the problem.
The porcelain insulators of the igniters or the spark plugs were dirty and lost the insulation function.
I am lazy so I told the factory people to clean the hell out of the insulators and that fixed the problem.
Tektronix scopes -- even in to the 7xxx series used metalized ceramic strips in the HV supply which got dirty over time. Many a scope was ruined by over-zealous use of abrasive cleansers or sandpaper etc to clean the ceramic.
I found bulged capacitors on the main board.
I was expecting such caps at the power supply module. It looks ok.
The main module looks bad. It has 30 electrolytics, 6 of them have inflated tops.
Hard to change, they are small of different values, the board has very thin tracks and tiny SMDs.
Not easy, likely the trouble is there but not sure.
I think I'll pull out the flame sensor and give it a clean. I can then swap back the previous control module and see if it works again 🙂
Tony.
Tony.
I just repaired an Aura VA-80 amplifier. It had an occasional hum and ticking its case resulted in popping sounds. Cause: a connector that provided the main board with power had a pin with solder needed to be reflown. By the way, I upped the main capacitors (from 4700uF to 8200uF).
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