Two small led light modules. They are used to mark a low srep at night so people don't trip on it. They run off 12v ac. At first I thought it was corrosion due to water ingress (from a cafe on a warf). But even after cleaning and reflowing it still did not work. Seemed the smd transistor under the cap was faulty. Pulled it off and replaced with an equivalent to92 to see if it worked and it did. So I trimmed the leads and it will now be good.
The second one had a faulty led. Replaced with one in the parts box and it's good too. The leds are in series so one goes they all go.
Tony.
The second one had a faulty led. Replaced with one in the parts box and it's good too. The leds are in series so one goes they all go.
Tony.
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LOL
Schematics were useful, because the resistor color codes had faded to crispy brown - paint fell off - crispy brown.
Schematics were useful, because the resistor color codes had faded to crispy brown - paint fell off - crispy brown.
Levinson LNP-2
repaired someones "Kludgy" attempt to get the VU meters going. Previous "fixer" tried to add an IC socket for the meter amp and in the process, lifted off a few traces from the motherboard. Then didn't know where to put the wires de-soldered from the lifted traces.
If you don't really know what you're doing - why start???
repaired someones "Kludgy" attempt to get the VU meters going. Previous "fixer" tried to add an IC socket for the meter amp and in the process, lifted off a few traces from the motherboard. Then didn't know where to put the wires de-soldered from the lifted traces.
If you don't really know what you're doing - why start???
The microwave repair. After the Ping my food was still cold.
I let it rest for an hour, opendt it, connected it not to the mains but to 10 V because I am not suicidal.
Voltages seemed normal, so I put in another MW tube that I got from a garbage oven, and that fixed it.
I guess the tubes from different brands are interchangable, if they are sort of the same size.
I let it rest for an hour, opendt it, connected it not to the mains but to 10 V because I am not suicidal.
Voltages seemed normal, so I put in another MW tube that I got from a garbage oven, and that fixed it.
I guess the tubes from different brands are interchangable, if they are sort of the same size.
Hi stellavox,
I am constantly getting repairs like that. I hate cleaning up after someone else!
-Chris
I am constantly getting repairs like that. I hate cleaning up after someone else!
-Chris
Today, I had an amp that worked but one power tube would randomly arc. A different tube did the same so I opened it up, and saw a spark gap had formed where a 33k resistor was (resistor tested open but would arc over from time to time sending several hundred volt spikes through one phase of the right channel.
Replaced the cheap MF resistors with MO and all is working again.
Replaced the cheap MF resistors with MO and all is working again.
Today's job was to repair the bathroom ventilator fan up in the skylight.
I custom installed it a while back, but it crapped out as I was crapping the other day.
Basically, it's an older Sears 16 inch window fan, 3 speeds, reversable.
However I use it on exhaust low speed to draw air up and out of the skylight when it gets warm upstairs in the summer.
I designed an adjustable thermostat/controller that senses the room temp, and when triggered, it slowly opens the framed hinged glass skylight panel several inches and kicks on the fan above it.
The system works great.
But the other day the fan quit.... my first thoughts were that the aged thermal fuse in the motor opened up for no reason.
Yep!.... it was blown. - 105C/2.2A
No motor issues, it draws 60 watts on low at .45A
I replaced the fuse with a re-settable thermal switch screwed to the fan motor body - 90C 15A.
If any overheating should happen, it will cut off, and reset once cool.
No more ladder climbing!
I custom installed it a while back, but it crapped out as I was crapping the other day.
Basically, it's an older Sears 16 inch window fan, 3 speeds, reversable.
However I use it on exhaust low speed to draw air up and out of the skylight when it gets warm upstairs in the summer.
I designed an adjustable thermostat/controller that senses the room temp, and when triggered, it slowly opens the framed hinged glass skylight panel several inches and kicks on the fan above it.
The system works great.
But the other day the fan quit.... my first thoughts were that the aged thermal fuse in the motor opened up for no reason.
Yep!.... it was blown. - 105C/2.2A
No motor issues, it draws 60 watts on low at .45A
I replaced the fuse with a re-settable thermal switch screwed to the fan motor body - 90C 15A.
If any overheating should happen, it will cut off, and reset once cool.
No more ladder climbing!
Once tripped the polyfuse stays hot at a reduced current. So you have to break the circuit to let it cool down, then power up again.
What I replaced isn't a polyfuse.
It's similar to the thermal switches used in coffeemakers, that open when the water runs out and the element heats up.
Upon cooling down, it re-connects.
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Stayed in a hotel room for the first time in a very long time last night. Quickly accumulated a laundry list of defects:
1. Deadbolt wouldn't set - knob just went round and round
2. Bathroom exhaust fan sounded like it had 3 squirrels stuck in it (maybe 4)
3. Crap TV was stuck on USB input & locked up
4. Couldn't fix 3 because crap TV remote wouldn't work!
Too exhausted after a long day to ask for a different room, I set to work:
1. Googled the TV model #, figured out button press/ power on combo to change input
2. TV remote batteries OK, Googled model #, reset codes to TV
3. MacGyver'd a door wedge
4. Ceiling fan: F890 it man, I'm out of gas. Good night.
(I have actually repaired hotel bathroom ceiling fans before, but just wasn't in the mood for this one.)
1. Deadbolt wouldn't set - knob just went round and round
2. Bathroom exhaust fan sounded like it had 3 squirrels stuck in it (maybe 4)
3. Crap TV was stuck on USB input & locked up
4. Couldn't fix 3 because crap TV remote wouldn't work!
Too exhausted after a long day to ask for a different room, I set to work:
1. Googled the TV model #, figured out button press/ power on combo to change input
2. TV remote batteries OK, Googled model #, reset codes to TV
3. MacGyver'd a door wedge
4. Ceiling fan: F890 it man, I'm out of gas. Good night.
(I have actually repaired hotel bathroom ceiling fans before, but just wasn't in the mood for this one.)
Jim should demand a decent refund for his work.....
"This is Motel Six......... and we'll leave the light on for ya." (if the bulb isn't burned out) 😉
I have a similar habit too when I'm somewhere on my duty journey with tools. So I understand Jim very much. 🙂
I just can't live in a place where everything is broken.
I just can't live in a place where everything is broken.
I'm that way about my home, pretty much, but not interested in hotel repairs, etc.
I say pretty much because I'm not nutwacked anal like some people are, I'll get around to it when I can.
I like things in a decent reasonable order, products/appliances that work as they should.
I do hate drippy faucets and plumbing problems though - a clogged drain makes me nuts.
The only thing I "fix" in the hotel room?
I've cleaned te filter on the A/C to make it work properly, and I've adjusted the chain on a toilet because you had to fight to get it to flush or hold the handle. Both made my life better so I'll call it a freebie 🙂
I've cleaned te filter on the A/C to make it work properly, and I've adjusted the chain on a toilet because you had to fight to get it to flush or hold the handle. Both made my life better so I'll call it a freebie 🙂