What did you last repair?

Suppressed highs from left channel. Found out the xt25tg30's VC got "mostly" seperated from diaphragm as glue seem to become brittle after 12 years of service. Re-glued back. Sounds great. May be another 12 years :cool: :)
 

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I was headed out to the garage via the laundry room Monday afternoon. As I stepped on the throw rug on the laundry room floor I was met with a cold squish squish. I shut off all water to the room and began the cleanup effort. Investigation revealed some water intrusion into the basement and an adjoining closet, but both were minimal. There were three likely possibilities, the washing machine, the small sink, and the plastic plumbing in the walls. The brownish stains on the sheetrock looked foreboding. After cleanup and removal of all carpeting, a brief water turn on revealed the 9 year old Kenmore (LG in disguise) washing machine to be the guilty party. YouTube revealed three leaky issues with these machines, and the needed info on how to get the thing open.

As soon as I popped the top off the issue was quite obvious. The cold water control valve had lost control of the water and created a new outlet. Apparently, it had been leaking for some time since it was quite rusty and corroded. Google led me to the correct LG part number which Amazon had for $25. I ordered one and a hot water control valve since I only wanted to do this once.

It took me about half an hour to swap both valves since they were both right on top of everything in the machine. Channel Lok pliers and a Philips screwdriver were all that was needed. The scary thing was the "400+ of these were ordered in the past month" quote on Amazon. How many flooded laundry rooms are there out there.
 
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Wharfedale PowerCube sub woofer. They use 1K 2W resistors to drop the almost 50V power rails down to 15V for the filter op amps. Those resistors run at 60C before they are enclosed in and air tight box. The excess heat had burnt the PCB and lifted the tracks off the board. I extended the resistors to stand well off the circuit board. Really needs a separate winding on the transformer.


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Tuner time!

My 'daily' tuner, a Sony ST-5950SD (with Dolby sound - amazing!).
No output anymore when selecting FM (AM is ok but with atmosphere).
The FM muting was stuck for whatever reason, closing these rare TX429D fets.
Bypassed with 680Ω resistors: voila!

Another Sony, the ST-3950. A more straightforward model. One wooden side panel...
No reception at all, only a faint hiss.
A dead insect, conductive though, taking the supply of the if-stage down.
Removed & the remains neatly buried. Operative. For sale now.

A Technics ST-8080. The one with the scaling window at the bottom. Nice design!
Unstable reception, running from the set frequency.
Opening up, hairs & cobwebs & 'things' (?), the vacuum cleaner choked on it.
Some IPA sprayed, brushed, dried. Plays! Also for sale.

A Sony ST-2950F. FM/SW/MW/LW multiband tuner.
FM not working? What would cause that?
Connecting a 75cm straight wire to the antenna terminal.
Clear reception. A deep sigh...
Nice small chap. Now a base for an old ipod docking station (with an even older ipod) with an external input.
Now listening to that radio. Nice.
 

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I was headed out to the garage via the laundry room Monday afternoon. As I stepped on the throw rug on the laundry room floor I was met with a cold squish squish. I shut off all water to the room and began the cleanup effort. Investigation revealed some water intrusion into the basement and an adjoining closet, but both were minimal. There were three likely possibilities, the washing machine, the small sink, and the plastic plumbing in the walls. The brownish stains on the sheetrock looked foreboding. After cleanup and removal of all carpeting, a brief water turn on revealed the 9 year old Kenmore (LG in disguise) washing machine to be the guilty party. YouTube revealed three leaky issues with these machines, and the needed info on how to get the thing open.

As soon as I popped the top off the issue was quite obvious. The cold water control valve had lost control of the water and created a new outlet. Apparently, it had been leaking for some time since it was quite rusty and corroded. Google led me to the correct LG part number which Amazon had for $25. I ordered one and a hot water control valve since I only wanted to do this once.

It took me about half an hour to swap both valves since they were both right on top of everything in the machine. Channel Lok pliers and a Philips screwdriver were all that was needed. The scary thing was the "400+ of these were ordered in the past month" quote on Amazon. How many flooded laundry rooms are there out there.
Dwellings ! Everything else pales in comparison to Water in Water out ! Those are the bane of homeowners (excepting Fire, Flood, Earthquake, Famine, Plague and a'holes with intent ;-))
A while ago Wifelet #1 commented on the low volume 'hissing' sound in the shower.
Investigation revealed a broken hot water pipe in the concrete slab (old copper pipes, hard water, and an earthquake or two}
Result, Compleat re-plumb of the house.. This time all pipes are EXTERNAL and I can see any issues and repair as needed.
 
I bought a used brick house November adjacent to my summer camp trailer. It is actually the old farm house that used to be a part of the summer acreage before the previous acreage owner refused to buy it. The trailer installed in 1976 has rotting floors and is as drafty as an old barn. Do not intend to maintain the trailer, Aluminum wiring, trailer would require a complete rewire for code update. All walls would have to be knocked out. Resale value of a 1976 trailer with aluminum siding & wiring, sagging particle board floors, $0. $140 a thousand pounds to haul it to the county dump.
Problem one there is no lock on the door to the heated plumbed electrified cinder block wash house. I do not want a meth lab set up in there, I installed a lockset 2 weeks ago. Problem, plunger did not engage the recess in the door jamb. Door blew open the first night. Today I hauled out a 12 ga steel strut 24" long with a rectangular hole in it for the lockset plunger. Amazingly, the gap between door & jamb was adequate so did not have to replace the door frame. I did not have to sand down the door jamb .080" to make room for the repair strut. 4 flat head screws, door is now locked and will not push open. Check.
 
Made a start on the Fiat 501C. Cleaning off 50 years of dust and birdshit revealed a very nice set of seats. I've also ordered a complete new wiring loom for the princely sum of AU$322.00 shipped. Not a lot of wiring in a 1925 car. Before and after of the seats:
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I bought in a couple of Ali Express 128 by 64 LCD panels.
Managed to get them up and running.
However they have some problems.
Cursor is 16 bits wide but character set is only 8 which gives a cursor twice as wide as it should be. Also incrementing cursor moves it on 2 characters !
While the display has 4 lines of 16 characters the layout of the lines is strange
It has 2 lines of 32 characters with 16 characters per line !
Why cant things just be straight forward ?
It looks like character mode was an after thought after graphics mode and was bodged to fit.
 
That Fiat 501C looks NICE!

Converter theft is getting bad. I saw there was a really big bust last year stretching across the entire USA. Sorry to hear you were hit.

Paid for a House Inspection today. Money well worth it, however, it was a bit of a disappointment in that more issues were found which will take $$$ to fix. Time to negotiate with the seller after getting some quotes and talking with my realtor.
 
That Fiat 501C looks NICE!
Surprisingly good for a 99yo car. The latest shock is that beaded 730x130 tyres are AU$675.00 each, not including tubes or delivery (I live 5 hours' drive from the nearest city). Needless to say that's out of the question so I'm looking for some alternate rims. There were three standard rims available depending on which importer built the body and the 19" with 5.00-19 tyres seems to be the most economical.
 
I bought in a couple of Ali Express 128 by 64 LCD panels.
Managed to get them up and running.
However they have some problems.
Cursor is 16 bits wide but character set is only 8 which gives a cursor twice as wide as it should be. Also incrementing cursor moves it on 2 characters !
While the display has 4 lines of 16 characters the layout of the lines is strange
It has 2 lines of 32 characters with 16 characters per line !
Why cant things just be straight forward ?
It looks like character mode was an after thought after graphics mode and was bodged to fit.
I decided to try graphics mode.
I plotted a line y=0 to y=63 and the line stopped half way down the screen.
After a lot of digging around internet I found you have to add 8 to X coordinate to get from y=32 onwards.
This wasnt in datasheet for display.
It seems to work OK now.
 
After a lot of digging around internet I found you have to add 8 to X coordinate to get from y=32 onwards.
Is this a HD44780-compatible LCD controller?

I had similar issues with one of those a few years ago, I had a Studiomaster mixing desk which had a VFD that was broken, and unobtanium. So I fitted an HD44780 LCD module, and reverse-engineered the mixer's EPROM to the level that I could remove all the multiplexer driver code, and replace it with some code to talk to the LCD. (8051 Microcontroller, if anyone cares.) And yeah... there were some odd, and very poorly documented offsets that needed to be set for one half of the display compared to the other.

All worked like a charm in the end.

Cheers!

Ant