That Schottky diode bit is a shill type of game done by half baked people who want to say their modifications improve the sound.
Their clients have 8 kHz ears, awful speakers, and poor room treatment, so that will hardly affect the sound.
It may damage the circuit in the long term...
It takes all kinds, and there are many fools who easily part with their money...
As an example, look at the various off medical pain treatments available, like ceramic heaters, treated waters, neural pain removing stimulators (which do not touch any nerves, intended for home use)....it is a long list.
Their clients have 8 kHz ears, awful speakers, and poor room treatment, so that will hardly affect the sound.
It may damage the circuit in the long term...
It takes all kinds, and there are many fools who easily part with their money...
As an example, look at the various off medical pain treatments available, like ceramic heaters, treated waters, neural pain removing stimulators (which do not touch any nerves, intended for home use)....it is a long list.
I picked a "Battle Creek" heating pad from the Goodwill bins; paid $8 for it and I think their "price by weight" is going skyward. 200W - capable of burning your skin, the instructions label said. They gave you a thumb operated on off switch, assuming you have the sense to not turn it on long enough to fry yourself... Full Manual Operation.
I replaced the switch with a 600V, 2A diode. I assume I'm getting ~50W now. Tossed over my thighs, it warms my legs nicely when I'm sitting in that freezing cold shop.
I replaced the switch with a 600V, 2A diode. I assume I'm getting ~50W now. Tossed over my thighs, it warms my legs nicely when I'm sitting in that freezing cold shop.
He wised up 🙂 Nobody wants to listen to old wise types anymore. People expect mystery and to be transformed by few capacitors and a piece of cable..
Nobody has the room. I glanced over mine space today and had a thought of closing the door behind me and setting the house on fire.
That is interesting, note it says account closed and not disabled at owner's request.
I for one had a very low opinion of him. In fact he was a major reason I left last year, just spamming every thread with incorrect technical basis.
Bingo. I thought he was ok and also wondered what happened to him. I didnt find his personality particularly tiresome; actually nobody particularly bothers me - I've no one on my "ignore list". To me the broad swath of opinions, perceptions and "personality" is what makes it all interesting.
I mean if it was only folks who were wholly taken by the mystery of tubes, transformers, class A, what brand cap / cable, FR speakers and how many MHz your audio sampling rate is, I'd soon lose interest. All you could reply is "Go for it and try to be happy with the result".
Let us please not discuss and speculate about members that are no longer part of the diyAudio community. His leaving was by decision of the Moderation Team.
The microwave oven lighting gave up a while ago and so found today the incentive to pop the hood, and found this piece of "proprietary" bulb... below for comparison an ordinary E14 socket oven/refrigerator bulb I was hoping for to replace with, I am going to just solder the leads directly onto the socket and add some proper isolation, drop it back and call it a day.
hah, my worries was rather on a LED in that environment although the mw head should be pretty tight on its own, I will try one just for fun when I get to it.
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You could check up, and get a special quartz glass bulb if needed.
Halogen bulbs are quartz bulbs, if that helps...
Halogen bulbs are quartz bulbs, if that helps...
Built up a couple of USB PC oscilloscopes.
Worked great.
Built up a third one and USB disconnected error.
Couldnt find a problem with the pcb. No shorts or missing/wrong components.
Only thing left was the PIC micro which was a 50MHz version from RS Components.
Looked up datasheet for PIC and it says my pic32mx230 is only 40MHz.
So it looks like I have been overclocking PIC by 25% !
Hence some work and others dont.
The PIC I need is pic32mx230f256b-50.
So got some ordered.
Worked great.
Built up a third one and USB disconnected error.
Couldnt find a problem with the pcb. No shorts or missing/wrong components.
Only thing left was the PIC micro which was a 50MHz version from RS Components.
Looked up datasheet for PIC and it says my pic32mx230 is only 40MHz.
So it looks like I have been overclocking PIC by 25% !
Hence some work and others dont.
The PIC I need is pic32mx230f256b-50.
So got some ordered.
I replaced my Sharp microwave incandescent bulb with an ordinary Osram LED bulb a few years ago and it's been fine. I just soldered wires onto the LED terminals/connections and made it fit. As a bonus it's brighter and operates cooler. I was already pulling it apart as it wasn't heating, so I replaced the HV diode and fuse.
The original bulbs broke regularly. I figured it was because of the shock of the door closing as the bulb is situated at the front of the unit near the door, so when the filament is white hot and you push the door shut, it breaks due to the design of these doors - having no shock absorbing materials.
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Had a return from a customer of a model railway DCC shuttle controller.
Symptom was no LED lighting on pcb.
Power supplies were all ok.
So checked PIC micro with a pickit 3 and it was faulty.
Replaced with new PIC and loco moved but only slowly while making lots of odd whining noises.
Looked at DCC signal and was a bit ropey looking.
So changed motor driver IC and then all was well.
Symptom was no LED lighting on pcb.
Power supplies were all ok.
So checked PIC micro with a pickit 3 and it was faulty.
Replaced with new PIC and loco moved but only slowly while making lots of odd whining noises.
Looked at DCC signal and was a bit ropey looking.
So changed motor driver IC and then all was well.
Fixed my adaptive headlights on my car. Ford don't repair them, they just want to charge upwards of 900GBP for a new one.
A bit of googling reveals that there is a very common problem with these: a loom connecting the moving bit and still bit breaks. Cracked the headlamp assembly open, and sure enough, a broken wire at the connector.
Fortunately, this is common enough that some enterprising souls offer a repair loom with the correct connector to repair it. So twenty quid later, I grafted in said repair loom. Reassembled it, refitted it, tested it: all good again. (Actually, the repair loom is a tenner. But I bought two of them; if one side has packed up the other side cannot be far behind.)
Now: What to do with the 880GBP I saved.....
,
A bit of googling reveals that there is a very common problem with these: a loom connecting the moving bit and still bit breaks. Cracked the headlamp assembly open, and sure enough, a broken wire at the connector.
Fortunately, this is common enough that some enterprising souls offer a repair loom with the correct connector to repair it. So twenty quid later, I grafted in said repair loom. Reassembled it, refitted it, tested it: all good again. (Actually, the repair loom is a tenner. But I bought two of them; if one side has packed up the other side cannot be far behind.)
Now: What to do with the 880GBP I saved.....
,
Attachments
I have a pcb cad program I wrote myself.
I designed a circuit using it.
After some editing of a pcb I noticed that when I forward annotated it that it was rubberbanding a track that shouldnt need rubberbanding.
So got stuck into source code to track the problem down.
The software looked fine to me.
So started adding trace messages and after 2 hours I couldnt find the problem.
I then went back to the pcb and noticed I had connected two components to ground instead of 12 volts.
This was the problem not the software.
I should have had more faith in the software.
So 2 hours wasted.
I designed a circuit using it.
After some editing of a pcb I noticed that when I forward annotated it that it was rubberbanding a track that shouldnt need rubberbanding.
So got stuck into source code to track the problem down.
The software looked fine to me.
So started adding trace messages and after 2 hours I couldnt find the problem.
I then went back to the pcb and noticed I had connected two components to ground instead of 12 volts.
This was the problem not the software.
I should have had more faith in the software.
So 2 hours wasted.
Now: What to do with the 880GBP I saved
Buy gold, or equity?
Or park it away for emergency use, times are tough in some countries, and continue looking for a bargain, sometimes immediate payment gets you a good deal.
Buy gold, or equity?
Or park it away for emergency use, times are tough in some countries, and continue looking for a bargain, sometimes immediate payment gets you a good deal.
Hi Naresh
For the avoidance of doubt - I was joking.
Perhaps it is a language thing that you missed that? I do tend to forget that English is not everyone's first language here.
Or maybe you are joking right back at me, and I missed it? 🤔
Cheers, and regards,
Ant.