Fixed my wife’s little red wagon. For the past couple weeks, I’ve been unable to get the trash out on collection day. I‘d bring it out to the street the night before, and while I’m busy feeding animals in the morning, she would bring it back to the house, still full. Trash man comes by, and we’d miss it for another week. Yesterday afternoon, I buried one end of a chain in concrete out there. Last night I physically chained the trash can to the street corner. Guess what. The trash got picked up this morning while I was out feeding horses. I would have paid good money to see the expression on her face when she tried to bring the bin back in this morning.
She suffers from some mild dementia. In her mind, the can NEEDS to be bright back in. Fine, but only AFTER they pick up. It just won’t sink in at 8 in the morning. Later in the day maybe, but by then it doesn't help the trash to get picked up.
She suffers from some mild dementia. In her mind, the can NEEDS to be bright back in. Fine, but only AFTER they pick up. It just won’t sink in at 8 in the morning. Later in the day maybe, but by then it doesn't help the trash to get picked up.
I have a project in mind and am hoping people here can recommend the right hardware to use, or at least something I can fashion to do the job. I need to adjust my son's attitude. Is there any such thing as an attitude adjustment hammer?
😉
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Just look on the flip side of Dr. Feelgood.
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You remind me of those guys on YT that rebuild starter motors, giant batteries and huge trucks.
Repaired an other original SL1, that’s the one with the HV burned secondary. Replaced the power transformer, replaced all the HV regs shorted parts, included one of the four HV rectifier diodes. Then moved to the preamp, using a lab power supply checked the HV input, there was a very low 50 ohms resistance, a blown resistor, and soark mark on the main board. Replaced the resistor, remove the caps where that was a spark. Normally the HV section is about 40-50ma, using my lab supply i increased the supply current, it kept ramping up to 150ma, i could see the pcb substrate burning near one of the input HV cap pad. The original problem was that the pcb pad sparked and shorted to gnd ground plane.
Cleaned thoroughly the pcb substrate around the capacitor pad, added epoxy and insulation tape to restore the pcb insulation. Replaced both HV input caps to be sure, restarted the preamp with the power supply, everything is fine now, playing beautiful music…
SB
Cleaned thoroughly the pcb substrate around the capacitor pad, added epoxy and insulation tape to restore the pcb insulation. Replaced both HV input caps to be sure, restarted the preamp with the power supply, everything is fine now, playing beautiful music…
SB
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Labor is cheap in India, and diesel is the preferred fuel for goods trucks.
So starter motor repair is common, so are alternator repairs.
They do get used a lot, and changing the bearings, Bendix drive and brushes is no big deal on a starter motor.
We even have shops that will rebuild the coils on armature and field if needed, some have spares, give the old one, and take a rebuilt one, one trip less.
Same thing for alternators, usually bridge rectifier / regulator / slip ring brushes, and sometimes bearings. Occasionally vacuum pump for brake (driven from alternator shaft).
Batteries...no, sulfation and pothole pounding shortens the like, and plastic cases are difficult.
Huge trucks? 400 HP is about the maximum here for trailer pullers, the common ones are in the below 250 HP class here. So yes, it is an option for repair, as the largest engines are sometimes imported, and when they do wear out, being in low use, the parts may not be available, and are very expensive.
But that is an obscure thing.
My option was to spend time looking for a replacement handle, and take a chance that it would be good quality, and the cost would be like $2, having it break again was the big difficulty. Or search in scrap...this will be reliable.
Power tools, here the really good ones like Bosch and Makita (for example) are 3 to 4 times the cost of the bottom end Chinese, and in between you have many makes, some assembling Chinese parts.
Their quality, and the honesty of the seller, are sometimes questionable.
So starter motor repair is common, so are alternator repairs.
They do get used a lot, and changing the bearings, Bendix drive and brushes is no big deal on a starter motor.
We even have shops that will rebuild the coils on armature and field if needed, some have spares, give the old one, and take a rebuilt one, one trip less.
Same thing for alternators, usually bridge rectifier / regulator / slip ring brushes, and sometimes bearings. Occasionally vacuum pump for brake (driven from alternator shaft).
Batteries...no, sulfation and pothole pounding shortens the like, and plastic cases are difficult.
Huge trucks? 400 HP is about the maximum here for trailer pullers, the common ones are in the below 250 HP class here. So yes, it is an option for repair, as the largest engines are sometimes imported, and when they do wear out, being in low use, the parts may not be available, and are very expensive.
But that is an obscure thing.
My option was to spend time looking for a replacement handle, and take a chance that it would be good quality, and the cost would be like $2, having it break again was the big difficulty. Or search in scrap...this will be reliable.
Power tools, here the really good ones like Bosch and Makita (for example) are 3 to 4 times the cost of the bottom end Chinese, and in between you have many makes, some assembling Chinese parts.
Their quality, and the honesty of the seller, are sometimes questionable.
In the 80's I had a friend with an elderly Dad who had a fear of electricity.
Every night before bed the old guy would un-plug all the appliances in the house so they "won't catch fire" while he slept.
He wouldn't say why, but I thought his fear probably came from some tragic experience.
That is absolutely right! Make it your own. I did pretty much the same thing with a random orbit sander that had a cheesy handle on it. Wasn't going to wait for it to break during a job, so made new handle slightly reverse coned shaped to be easier to hold onto. Glad I did it.
Only a little one.
A weathervane only 2 years old.
As with much of this stuff they insist on powdercoat.
Outdoor items, direct into steel - powdercoat hopeless!
It looks nice in store - utterly useless!
Just flakes off.
Once scraped off and wire rushed, I used Tetrosyl - SCS010.
Don't expect to be doing that again soon.
I remember the underside of my Caterham 7 racecar🙄
They'd powdercoated all the chassis and suspension.
Hopeless. All flaking off.
Waxolyed the inaccessible bits, POR-15 on the non UV exposed bits. Tetrosyl on the rest.
A weathervane only 2 years old.
As with much of this stuff they insist on powdercoat.
Outdoor items, direct into steel - powdercoat hopeless!
It looks nice in store - utterly useless!
Just flakes off.
Once scraped off and wire rushed, I used Tetrosyl - SCS010.
Don't expect to be doing that again soon.
I remember the underside of my Caterham 7 racecar🙄
They'd powdercoated all the chassis and suspension.
Hopeless. All flaking off.
Waxolyed the inaccessible bits, POR-15 on the non UV exposed bits. Tetrosyl on the rest.
For those wondering what it is...Tetrosyl SCS010 Stonechip Black 1L. A tough, flexible corrosion and chip resistant coating for all-round protection and sound deadening qualities.
POR-15 is anti rust paint / coating.
You can also use a car body paint system, priming then coating with a suitable paint.
Amazed that Caterham did something so silly as powder coating the chassis and suspension, a few liters of proper paint would not be so expensive to apply. Particularly in an expensive car which sells on reputation.
But it seems British, Aston Martin put plastic brake pedals, had to recall when they broke.
POR-15 is anti rust paint / coating.
You can also use a car body paint system, priming then coating with a suitable paint.
Amazed that Caterham did something so silly as powder coating the chassis and suspension, a few liters of proper paint would not be so expensive to apply. Particularly in an expensive car which sells on reputation.
But it seems British, Aston Martin put plastic brake pedals, had to recall when they broke.
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Powdercoat is fine for outdoor items, but a specific powder type must be used, with proper application procedure. This is more expensive than conventional powder, because the chemical composition of the resin component is different. The hardening agent is a completely different chemical, and there are UV-blocker additives. The difference is not obvious by looking at the final result after the application, and the temptation to save costs is too great for some manufacturers. The result is what you have seen, the paint film flakes off after a while.
I do not see much advantage in powder coating for an application like a car, compared to paint.
Both are messy, but powder coating a thick impact resistant layer, and then fusing it properly is not easy.
I once applied a 2 part polyurethane primer as an undercoat to the underside of my then car, a Fiat 1100 copy made in India.
Brush coat, with just a little thinner.
No rust after 5 years in a car famous for that.
But then, the temptation to cut costs is always there, more so in a company reporting to bean counters.
Both are messy, but powder coating a thick impact resistant layer, and then fusing it properly is not easy.
I once applied a 2 part polyurethane primer as an undercoat to the underside of my then car, a Fiat 1100 copy made in India.
Brush coat, with just a little thinner.
No rust after 5 years in a car famous for that.
But then, the temptation to cut costs is always there, more so in a company reporting to bean counters.
My last repair of importance : the restoration of a 1964 JTM45 Marshall head...
Alternated Before/After pictures :
T
Alternated Before/After pictures :
T
Powdercoating is easier to apply with automated tools. It makes the end products more consistent, it is faster, and it may cut costs - although not necessarily.