What can I do against 'box sound' ?

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That explains it I suppose. I wonder has anyone tried a sandwich with Sorbothane in between the two wood panels? Sorbothane (Polyurethane) comes in different durometers (hardness or softness). It is very good at vibration reduction. I understand that to do this properly; it needs to be under some compressive force rather than just laying say a sheet inside by lining the panel interiors...
 
I used a very good quality wood glue between my two panels. I then clamped them together. Then I also used enough wood screws to ensure a uniform binding force. I did use a trowel with spacings like one would use when cementing ceramic tiles. Perhaps the is the main difference here???

i am sure the trick is to have an elastic bond between the two sheets, when the bond (glue) gets hard then the two sheets acts like one single piece, which is something we do not want if we want inertness

but if we want to increase panel resonance frequency then a stiff glue is a good thing

i want the panels to sound like a quiet thud when hitting it and not anything like hitting an empty glass bottle
 
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So maybe the secret then would be to use Sorbothane (or similar) under slight compression so it can effectively absorb vibrations between the two panels. This would take some experimenting to determine the right durometer and compressive force. Too much compression may possibly defeat the whole idea of a dampening medium; too little compression would maybe allow too much flex and not dampen very well...would be nice to have a scientific experiment to test all the possible configurations to arrive at the ideal "sandwich" construction...I certainly am not up to such a task, limited space and limited tools and machinery let alone lack of sophisticated test and measurement equipment that would be necessary to do a proper job here...
 
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Hi,
There is no secret about CLD (constrained layer damping) this is an example ( not sorbothane used however but dedicated EAR product):

US5949033A - Constrained layer damped loudspeaker enclosure
- Google Patents


Earl Geddes explained here that there is a much easier way to achieve same goal (more or less) by the use of CLD approach to bracing ( not CLD to the enclosure walls but on bracing). More or less what Kef did to Ls50 enclosure or the way B&W tie the matrix skeleton parts together in the 800 series.

Make a search on this forum there was a patent about the cld bracing on the thread i'm thinking of ( it was in the last month iirc).
 
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If you like the OB sound, go for it. If it was possible to replicate with a box, the speaker manufacturers would have done so.
I've built a Linkwitz Phoenix system and currently use ML Aeons hybrid electrostatic dipoles and have owned a pair of Quad ESL63s.
I wanted to sell the Aeons to raise some funds but I cannot live with any box speaker. I've tried Monitor Audio BX2, large bookshelf, Yamaha NSF51 floorstanders, and currently have some Q Acoustic 3050i medium floorstanders which are only used for home cinema audio, but the Aeons are the ones for music.

PHOENIX - Open Baffle Loudspeaker


If you have woodworking skills they are not difficult to build, though the crossover & equaliser is more involved.
 
Open baffle is a speaker without a back - i.e. open.


But the Phoenix uses electronics to smooth out the response, which will suffer when you have an open baffle. (the frontal sound travels round the side and cancels the rear sound so you need to use a mic to take measurements and determine the equalisation,unless you follow the dimensions and drivers on the Phoenix page.)


The good news is that the Linkwitz Riley transform crossovers /equalizers are available ready assembled from Ebay for £30 for a 3 way and about £20 for the 2way. It was really tedious building them on strip board 30years ago.



If your speaker is 3ohms impedance, which is unusual, just put a 1 ohm resistor in series if your amp is not happy driving them.
 
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