"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

Plug the LED into your Mega328 component tester that you bought on eBay.

During testing, the LED will blink a couple times while the software figures out which pin does what, and while it measures Vf and Cj. When the LED blinks you will be able to see its illumination color --- which is super handy when your LED has a water clear body, and you can't tell by looking whether it's supposed to glow red, blue, green, amber, etc.

The Mega328 will tell you which pin is the LED anode (positive terminal) and which pin is the LED cathode (negative terminal). Lift it out of the tester, stuff into the PCB, bend leads, and solder. Errors eliminated!

Don't yet own a Mega328?? Get one! I prefer to have an acrylic case surrounding mine (USD 6.00 more on eBay) but that's a personal preference.

It's really difficult to spot the flat side of those little guys. Better idea here...watch the lead lengths.

Thanks both. The sad truth is that I was using the lead lengths as a guide but still managed to botch it. Good news is that I've recovered, finished the amp, and am now thoroughly enjoying listening as I write this!
 
Specifically in the box with photo of all the various input/output/mains connections.

Will try and sort this later, although I suspect the issues are more around the levels themselves. Here's some info regarding the levels that are feeding into the Whammy -

Front end = Denon DL-160 with 1.6mV output (Possibly nearer 2mV)
Phono Amp = Modded Rotel RQ970 which increases the gain in MM mode to X100 and in MC mode to X1100
Potentiometer in Whammy = Alps 100K
Headphones being driven - Shure SRH1840 65 ohms impedance.

I'm using the MM mode in the phono amp but the volume levels are too high when volume level is on 0. It's listenable and sounds quite good but definitely needs to be reduced.

Is anyone able to identify where the issue lies?
 
s7Nxnqh.jpg

Here's an in the box pic. A littl emessy and I am yet to connect the signal ground to the IEC earth via a capacitor (in the post...) which should resolve the hum.

To clarify, the amp is working fine but the volume levels are too high and there's a fair amount of volume being generated when the potentiometer is turned right down. That's why I wondered if it's a gain issue?

Double check that the input caps underneath the PCB are connected to the correct pads, and not to other pins of the volume pot

The 2.2uF caps in C1 and C5 are connecting to the cetral 2 pads of the potentiometer which are the signal out pads I believe so correct.

My hunch is there’s an issue with the turntable setup instead. It’s a bit tricky getting grounding issues solved on turntables.

The truntable is grounded on the chassis of the phono amp. I'm not so concerned abou the low level hum as I am expecting this to be resolved when the signal ground is attached to the IEC earth via the cap.
 
What is the output of your source?
1V rms, 2V rms, 3V rms


Here are the stats of my source :

Front end = Denon DL-160 with 1.6mV output (Possibly nearer 2mV)
Phono Amp = Modded Rotel RQ970 which increases the gain in MM mode to X100 and in MC mode to X1100
Potentiometer in Whammy = Alps 100K
Headphones being driven - Shure SRH1840 65 ohms impedance.

I'm using the MM mode in the phono amp but the volume levels are too high when volume level is on 0. It's listenable and sounds quite good but definitely needs to be reduced.
 
P= v^2/R
0.002 = V^2/65
v= (0.002*65)^0.5
V=0.36 V rms


MM
1.6mV x 100 = 160mV

6 to 9 dB is plenty.

Maybe reduce the gain in the feedback loop.


Scratching my head at those equations. How do I reduce the gain in the feedback loop? Looks like there are a few options in the schematic to adjust the gain at various points....
 
It's strange that you're getting signal with volume pot at minimum.
Have you wired the pot in the reverse manner?

That's what I thought. It's an Alps 100K and is wired onto the board as seen (no wires crossed over). I assume the Alps are all configure the same (input-outpt-ground). Have checked and the connections seem to be fine. The only thing not yet in place is that the singal ground is not yet connected to the IEC erath via the capacitor. That surely shouldn't compromise the potentiometer though?