It's analog, indeed... shorter loops means better performance and long leads lengthen the loops.
In extreme cases long leads could cause stability problems.
please forgive my confusion I don't have the same board as yours, but:
"On C22/C28 the supplied oscons sound remarkably good but Black/gold Silmics II or BGs sound best.
On other positions the supplied Silmics are a really good choice, simply remove all MKS2 bypasses.
In general where an OSCON is used a bypass is very bad idea, remove it as well."
"gold/black silmics are the bests för decoupling of AK4399". is this the right intrpretation of your statement?
"On C22/C28 the supplied oscons sound remarkably good but Black/gold Silmics II or BGs sound best.
On other positions the supplied Silmics are a really good choice, simply remove all MKS2 bypasses.
In general where an OSCON is used a bypass is very bad idea, remove it as well."
"gold/black silmics are the bests för decoupling of AK4399". is this the right intrpretation of your statement?
Simply compare the datasheet with your board and identify caps on your board.
In my post I've noted all decouplig caps with datasheet naming.
Not exactly, it depends on the role.
On DVDD, VCML and VCMR BlackGate STD are the best choice, Niobium AVX NOJ are also a very good choice.
I have used Elna Cerafine on the DAC, digital supply, and like them, but haven't heard the Blackgate capacitors either.
I Got rid off all the "blue caps", only 7 100nF left which I don't have the guts
to change due the "print quality".
I managed to burn a lane, which I now have repaired.
Changing to WiMA, makes a huge difference in my ears, at least the same as
changing to Panasonic TSHA.
After have read a lot about op Amps, I have bought a pair of LT1028ACN8.
The inspiration was from a guy Andrea, which now is "banned" across a lot of
boards.
These are way way way better, than LME49710HA and the few others I have tried.
I'll see If I can find more opinions from people who really likes the LT1028, they might
have some knowledge of similar op Amps.
/Michael.
to change due the "print quality".
I managed to burn a lane, which I now have repaired.
Changing to WiMA, makes a huge difference in my ears, at least the same as
changing to Panasonic TSHA.
After have read a lot about op Amps, I have bought a pair of LT1028ACN8.
The inspiration was from a guy Andrea, which now is "banned" across a lot of
boards.
These are way way way better, than LME49710HA and the few others I have tried.
I'll see If I can find more opinions from people who really likes the LT1028, they might
have some knowledge of similar op Amps.
/Michael.
Andrea dug deeper into the op amp selection than anyone else, really went to the edge...
I may need to get a set of the LT1028, just to try out.
If you can find some good polystyrene .01uf to decouple the analog side of the DAC chip, you'll likely be surprised. Just be very carefull to not heat up the chip...
I may need to get a set of the LT1028, just to try out.
If you can find some good polystyrene .01uf to decouple the analog side of the DAC chip, you'll likely be surprised. Just be very carefull to not heat up the chip...
They're out of production but their technology is all but obsolete.
Cerafines are pretty good too for digital decoupling.
I do agree.
Nevertheless TSHAs are a must for the DAC9.
I've tried too LT1028 and they have a really good timbre but compared to LME49710 they lack a lot of detail, IMHO.
This morning I have some problems with my 4P1L amp, which now is solved.
I was forced to use my old 6922 preamp, which is way below the quality of my
4P1L.
I also realized on this amp, something was a little lacking on the LT1028ACN8, compared to the LME47910HA.
I'm now playing on my 4P1L. Here all the details are just close to perfect.
So LT1028 needs something more outstanding to shine like a "diamond".
PS! The only transistor I have in my Chain, is the op Amp, all other amplification is pure DHT trodes.
/Michael.
Hi..
Does anyone know was is the "default" voltage over the opAMP on
the finished build version. (meassure from pin4 to pin7).
to ClaveFremen..
I found that the "second" trimmer was for setting the (+- voltage) (pin4 - pin7) on
the op Amps.
How much voltage do you have here ???
Do you know what is the function of the other trimmer ??
/Thanks Michael.
Does anyone know was is the "default" voltage over the opAMP on
the finished build version. (meassure from pin4 to pin7).
to ClaveFremen..
I found that the "second" trimmer was for setting the (+- voltage) (pin4 - pin7) on
the op Amps.
How much voltage do you have here ???
Do you know what is the function of the other trimmer ??
/Thanks Michael.
Sorry, my DAC9 is no more in use so I can't easily measure that voltage.
I don't know the use of the other trimmer.
My iRDAC is still stock for the moment.
It sounds so good I'm reluctant to mod it but I'm sure I'll do it one day or another. 😉
It sounds so good I'm reluctant to mod it but I'm sure I'll do it one day or another. 😉
Hi MichaelVV,
I just received a dad 9 V1.2 from minishow. I am still investigating the "as is" board. I measured at opamp:
pin 4: -14.0 V
pin 5: + 15.6 V
In schematic is +/- 12 V specified. Unsure if this is good or bad?
I assume the trimmers are there to control the voltage, I do not see the trimmers in the schematic. Needs some investigation.
I just received a dad 9 V1.2 from minishow. I am still investigating the "as is" board. I measured at opamp:
pin 4: -14.0 V
pin 5: + 15.6 V
In schematic is +/- 12 V specified. Unsure if this is good or bad?
I assume the trimmers are there to control the voltage, I do not see the trimmers in the schematic. Needs some investigation.
Hi...
I have tried anything beetween +- 12 to +- 15 volt.
I have some contact with the danish DEXA guy , "he's developing discrete opAmps". I have a pair of DEXA for test.
But right now , I'm playing without opAmps.
I might have less gain, but I really like the Clarity without op Amps.
/Michael
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