4 Auras & T-amp
I'm currently using the NS3's with a Sonic T-amp (no mods) and while I love the combo, it does have serious limitations in terms of max volume. Each of my PC speakers houses two NS3's (wired in parallel) with the lower driver rolled off above 1200hz. It's a simple vented alignment. They sound great as long as I don't get happy with the volume. My speakers don't "overload gracefully".
Given their limited output, I don't think they would do very well outside. I could live with the limited output, and my experience suggests this is good advice should you decide to go ahead with your original plan.
Good luck,
Squib
I'm currently using the NS3's with a Sonic T-amp (no mods) and while I love the combo, it does have serious limitations in terms of max volume. Each of my PC speakers houses two NS3's (wired in parallel) with the lower driver rolled off above 1200hz. It's a simple vented alignment. They sound great as long as I don't get happy with the volume. My speakers don't "overload gracefully".
Given their limited output, I don't think they would do very well outside. I could live with the limited output, and my experience suggests this is good advice should you decide to go ahead with your original plan.
Good luck,
Squib
Fast1one said:
I think I will end up use the Podzuma drivers and xover. Do you think this amp is worth it's salt? How could I fashion a volume knob? http://cgi.ebay.com/2-100-watt-4ohm...03550195QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3280QQcmdZViewItem
GuyPanico said:
The tweeters and filter used in podzuma are not optimal for bipolar designs, I suggested some better suited tweeters and x-over design earlier in this thread. You need some with wider dispersion and preferably also sensivity and impedance that matches the woofers.
That particular amp haven't recieved the best of reviews in the class-D section of this board, and you would probably be better off with their dirt cheap T-amp clone, regardless of rating they would output the same power (if used on the same battery):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...Sell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget
Would you even need a volume knop? It's better to control the volume the iPod, and use the headphone output as it sounds much better than the line out from an iPod. Strange, but true.
Saturnus said:
Unfortunantly I lack to tools or experience (and frankly knowledge 🙂 ) to design my own crossover. That's why existing designs or 1way full rangers appeal to me.
It didn't even occur to me to search for that amplifier on the board. I wont underestimate the forums in the future 🙂
I would prefer to use the dock if possible to keep a clean design. And i'd like to use the dock to secure my iphone from being bumped and tumbling to the floor.
Thanks for all the help so far gentlemen. I think I need lots more though 🙂
Saturnus: Could you recommend these as a substitute for the other tweets you suggested? I already have some of these I could use..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-030
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-030
GuyPanico said:
It's basically the same tweeter, just with another front bezel. So yes, they would do nicely.
Oh, and remember this board is absolutely teeming with experts willing to help you design a good (and simple x-over). 😀
I could have a stab at it tomorrow, if someone else don't beat me to it first.
If you haven't got the dock already, then you could get one with a built in volume control and/or remote control.
Here are the discussions on that ampGuyPanico said:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1380306#post1380306
In addition, here is the T amp discussion from the same vendor
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1380291#post1380291
Re: 4 Auras & T-amp
(i'll assume the NS3s that do bass)... it is most likely your amp running out of jam 1st... those Auras are not very efficient. One of the reasons i moved up to the FF85.
dave
squib said:
(i'll assume the NS3s that do bass)... it is most likely your amp running out of jam 1st... those Auras are not very efficient. One of the reasons i moved up to the FF85.
dave
Pioneer A11's (4.5")?
You are correct, the NS3's are run full range with no sub or "helper woofer". I've only run them with two amps: the T-amp and an old (1976) Marantz 2240b (45 watts @ 4 ohms) . The Marantz can squeeze a little more output from the Aura's before the bass (everything <150 hz) goes to mud, but it's not a substantial difference. I can't say what improvement might come from a more powerful amp, but I'm guessing the Aura's in a vented alignment, run full-range, would be a poor choice if you are planning on entertaining a large group outside (e.g. Podzuma).
You are correct, the NS3's are run full range with no sub or "helper woofer". I've only run them with two amps: the T-amp and an old (1976) Marantz 2240b (45 watts @ 4 ohms) . The Marantz can squeeze a little more output from the Aura's before the bass (everything <150 hz) goes to mud, but it's not a substantial difference. I can't say what improvement might come from a more powerful amp, but I'm guessing the Aura's in a vented alignment, run full-range, would be a poor choice if you are planning on entertaining a large group outside (e.g. Podzuma).
GuyPanico said:
This guy had basically the same idea. If purple is not your colour, I can well understand. 😀
That nicely built purple box has inspired me to propose this idea....
Use 4, 3" full rangers in a sealed bipole configuration. A simple 6dB crossover at maybe ~200hz. Or perhaps even run full range. You guys can help determine a good crossover point as I dont know the best way to figure that out. Then the same DVC 8" dayton used in the purple boombox with probably a 12dB filter. The dayton will be sealed with a Q about .8 - .85 .
But the twist is I would like to make it downfiring. This will keep it truly bipolar, and give the impression the little 3" drivers are producing all the sound. A recessed driver and grill will keep the woofer hidden and protected. And 1" rubber feet should allow enough clearance I think.
I would think a ~10watt t-amp can keep up with a pyramid "35w" car amplifier.
Use 4, 3" full rangers in a sealed bipole configuration. A simple 6dB crossover at maybe ~200hz. Or perhaps even run full range. You guys can help determine a good crossover point as I dont know the best way to figure that out. Then the same DVC 8" dayton used in the purple boombox with probably a 12dB filter. The dayton will be sealed with a Q about .8 - .85 .
But the twist is I would like to make it downfiring. This will keep it truly bipolar, and give the impression the little 3" drivers are producing all the sound. A recessed driver and grill will keep the woofer hidden and protected. And 1" rubber feet should allow enough clearance I think.
I would think a ~10watt t-amp can keep up with a pyramid "35w" car amplifier.
Thats the Idea I had 😀 Stealthy 8 hehe...of course you will loose stereo midbass, but its a boombox, who cares 😀GuyPanico said:
A couple of Amp6 T-amps would work well, or maybe three, one for the full rangers, two for the sub ran bridged-parallel (I think? Or the other way around)...Do it!
😀
I think you're going to be disappointed if you try to drive everything from a single T-amp. It's a great amp, especially when you consider the price and size, but you may be asking too much. You might want to check out some of the 41hz multi-channel kits (e.g. AMP9) or at least one of the higher output tripath chip designs (AMP10).
I'm definantly not ready to build my own kit. I know I would end up destroying it. However I could run a pair of those 2 channel ebay t-amps. One for the fullrangers and one for the sub. I'm really not looking for party level volume, just moderate indoor volume.
Anybody know the voltage range on those amps? I would like to power them with 1.2v NiMH batteries. It would be nice if I could use 12 of them for 14.4volts. And how about powering them from AC? Any power supply recommendations?
Anybody know the voltage range on those amps? I would like to power them with 1.2v NiMH batteries. It would be nice if I could use 12 of them for 14.4volts. And how about powering them from AC? Any power supply recommendations?
While the absolute max voltage for the 2024 chip is listed as 16 v, an operating voltage above about 13.5v seems to cause trouble, so 14.4v to the chip is too much. The unit shuts itself down when overvoltage causes it to heat up, but the consensus on these forums is that over time is that too-high voltages will cause damage.
However, I do believe this board has a reverse polarity protection diode which drops the voltage a little--by 1.2v (help me here, guys), which would bring the voltage delivered to the chip down to 13.2, which is in the safe operating range. At voltages higher than 12v it is probably a good idea to stick on a heat sink. The fingernail-sized ones sold for computer memory chips are just right.
Best of luck.
--Buckabound
However, I do believe this board has a reverse polarity protection diode which drops the voltage a little--by 1.2v (help me here, guys), which would bring the voltage delivered to the chip down to 13.2, which is in the safe operating range. At voltages higher than 12v it is probably a good idea to stick on a heat sink. The fingernail-sized ones sold for computer memory chips are just right.
Best of luck.
--Buckabound
ricebox said:
We just got one of these going with a SDX7 woof & a set of µFonken sats. The HF amps get laid bare by the µFonken. The KingRex T-amp (and the RH84s) eat the plate amp for breakfast.
dave
- Status
- Not open for further replies.