@profiguy - the ebay listing given by @NIXIE62 has the first example of a replacement I've seen that might fit.
5-inch EC113A rubber edge
Outer diameter(red line):125mm
Outer bubble(yellow line): 113mm
Inner bubble(blue line):95mm
Inner diameter(green line):90mm
Your dimensions in post #7:
122mm, 112mm, 96mm, 90mm
I measured the surrounds with a large vernier caliper as
A=123 B=113 C=98 D=91mm
- but C is the least accurate of my measurements, since I have not yet removed the old surround.
Does 95mm match the outside Ø of the cone?
Anyway they are so cheap that even I might be forced to try them.
Anyone recommend an adhesive to suit PolyPropylene cones?
5-inch EC113A rubber edge
Outer diameter(red line):125mm
Outer bubble(yellow line): 113mm
Inner bubble(blue line):95mm
Inner diameter(green line):90mm
Your dimensions in post #7:
122mm, 112mm, 96mm, 90mm
I measured the surrounds with a large vernier caliper as
A=123 B=113 C=98 D=91mm
- but C is the least accurate of my measurements, since I have not yet removed the old surround.
Does 95mm match the outside Ø of the cone?
Anyway they are so cheap that even I might be forced to try them.
Anyone recommend an adhesive to suit PolyPropylene cones?
That is the problem. The neoprene rubber glue held the dust caps on the PP Scanspeak membranes very well for me (SS 8553 driver).
5-inch EC113A rubber edge
Outer diameter(red line):125mm
Outer bubble(yellow line): 113mm
Inner bubble(blue line):95mm
Inner diameter(green line):90mm
It will sit on the P13WH membrane like an ... on the potty. 🤣
Pay attention to the coil centering, use an amplifier and a tone generator if you don't want to remove the dust caps. First, the surround is glued to the membrane as precisely as possible and wait for the glue to harden. Then a tone generator or bass-heavy music is played and the outer suspension ring is glued to the chassis.
Outer diameter(red line):125mm
Outer bubble(yellow line): 113mm
Inner bubble(blue line):95mm
Inner diameter(green line):90mm
It will sit on the P13WH membrane like an ... on the potty. 🤣
Pay attention to the coil centering, use an amplifier and a tone generator if you don't want to remove the dust caps. First, the surround is glued to the membrane as precisely as possible and wait for the glue to harden. Then a tone generator or bass-heavy music is played and the outer suspension ring is glued to the chassis.
Last edited:
Check the 125mm, as to my knowledge the surround has to fall into a recessed ring on the frame. And does it have an angled ring for cone mount (140deg)?
I think the recess part of the chassis has a diameter equal to or less than 124mm (140-132-124). If nothing else, glue it and cut it off later with the metal edge nicely. And maybe it can be compressed a little, it's only 1mm difference.
Attachments
Last edited:
One of those will work. It will also depend on how thick the surround is. Too thick and it will lower the sensitivity.
The adhesive I've used to glue polypropylene is T7000. It's a high strength contact adhesive which has some really nasty solvents in it, but it works well on PP.
Centering the VC isn't too hard, but t requires some wiggle room in the adhesive setup, so you can move things around before it sets up. That can be tricky with PP needing contact adhesive.
I cleaned up one driver for surround replacement and the other will be left as is, so I can measure both and compare.
I'll try those ebay surrounds and see if they're an option. Otherwise I'll have to scavenge something from another driver or try the flat foam surround.
Being a dedicated mid, I doubt a flat surround will cause more problems than it fixes (in this case at least).
I'm pretty sure the reason this surround deteriorated this way is due to the use of armor all. The silicone oil found it that stuff will ruin elastomeric parts, specifically rubber based products. I have a set of older Boston Acoustics woofers, of which only one has a hardened rubber surround. I happen to know the bad one had armor all applied to it and not the other good one. Some furniture polish also has silicone oils in it. Not good to use on certain polymers and rubber.
I'll try those ebay surrounds and see if they're an option. Otherwise I'll have to scavenge something from another driver or try the flat foam surround.
Being a dedicated mid, I doubt a flat surround will cause more problems than it fixes (in this case at least).
I'm pretty sure the reason this surround deteriorated this way is due to the use of armor all. The silicone oil found it that stuff will ruin elastomeric parts, specifically rubber based products. I have a set of older Boston Acoustics woofers, of which only one has a hardened rubber surround. I happen to know the bad one had armor all applied to it and not the other good one. Some furniture polish also has silicone oils in it. Not good to use on certain polymers and rubber.
Attachments
Last edited:
No joke, but try this thing made for the skin : https://www.quechoisir.org/comparat...941/dexeryl-creme-secheresse-cutanee-pi27996/ use google translate or any translators.
It is so good I use it for restoring leather shoes !
It is so good I use it for restoring leather shoes !
Isn't it just a question of supply and demand? And let the shop know you are waiting for this size?
Vifa P13WH was a very popular model driver, and I bought a set of four in 1995.
Attachments
As popular as the P13 mid was, it only shared a small percentage of sales with the 17 and 21 cm drivers. The P13 was used in some very high end designs ie Dunlavey. I replaced many of them in my repair days after heavy handed engineers wanted more volume than the monitors could dish out. The tiny 25cm VC doesn't particularly scream dynamic range unless its crossed rather high.