Hello. Please help me answering the dumb question below....
To use with this PSU board, I got these dual cathode rectifiers (TO-3P case):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...board-v3-illustrated-build-guide-diodepic.jpg
Question: Do I need to cut one of the 2 anode legs on each of these dual rectifiers? If not, why are both anode legs needed at the same time?
Thanks!
To use with this PSU board, I got these dual cathode rectifiers (TO-3P case):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...board-v3-illustrated-build-guide-diodepic.jpg
Question: Do I need to cut one of the 2 anode legs on each of these dual rectifiers? If not, why are both anode legs needed at the same time?
Thanks!
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One more dumb question.
I'm using 2 of these PSU boards to implement a Dual Mono stereo amp, since my power transformer has 4 secondary coils. The question is, do I need to connect both Grounds together from each PSU board, as in the image below?
Thanks!
I'm using 2 of these PSU boards to implement a Dual Mono stereo amp, since my power transformer has 4 secondary coils. The question is, do I need to connect both Grounds together from each PSU board, as in the image below?
Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The whole purpose of going to Dual Mono is to keep the channels separated.
If these channels connect internally, then when you connect the two input signal interconnects you will get a loop in the input signal returns that adds interference current around that loop and creates an interference voltage that cannot be separated from the wanted audio signal.
If these channels connect internally, then when you connect the two input signal interconnects you will get a loop in the input signal returns that adds interference current around that loop and creates an interference voltage that cannot be separated from the wanted audio signal.
Hey!
First of all, thanks for all the support that is provided here in the forum!
I have a question concerning the V3 PSU. I am planning on building a PSU for either a F5 or/and Alpeh-J. So the idea is to use the same PSU so it is easy to change the amp afterwards. On the page of the aleph-j on the diy-audio shop home page it says that an PSU for the F5 would be ok if the capacitors are big enough of course.
So at the moment I am looking for the parts i need and i am worried about some parts:
1.) The V3PSU uses those dual diodes but in some illustrated build guides like in the one of the F5 the use those rectifier blocks. Is there any advantage of using either the blocks or not?
2.) Is it worth spending more money on the parts for the PSU like using Mundorfs MLytic AG capacitors and Mills resistors
3.) Is it important that the PI-resistors are flame-proof 😕😕
4.) has some one ever used one of those transformers and can recommend them? Or any other suggestions?
TTSAS0500 - SUPREME AUDIO grade transformer TSAS500VA - voltage to 50V - Shop Toroidy.pl
5.) In the BOM of the PSU the thermistors of the original PSU for the F5 are not listed. Anyway they should be used (and also the 0.0033 cap at the primary windings)?
6.) As often mentioned in the thread here, using the wrong values for the snubber parts can make things even worse, so i think i might leave those parts..?
7.) The original F5 PSU uses 4 x 0R47 per rail for the CRC resistors. Is this also ok for the Aleph-J?
Sorry for all the questions, i hope some one can give me answers 😱
Best regards,
Philip
First of all, thanks for all the support that is provided here in the forum!
I have a question concerning the V3 PSU. I am planning on building a PSU for either a F5 or/and Alpeh-J. So the idea is to use the same PSU so it is easy to change the amp afterwards. On the page of the aleph-j on the diy-audio shop home page it says that an PSU for the F5 would be ok if the capacitors are big enough of course.
So at the moment I am looking for the parts i need and i am worried about some parts:
1.) The V3PSU uses those dual diodes but in some illustrated build guides like in the one of the F5 the use those rectifier blocks. Is there any advantage of using either the blocks or not?
2.) Is it worth spending more money on the parts for the PSU like using Mundorfs MLytic AG capacitors and Mills resistors
3.) Is it important that the PI-resistors are flame-proof 😕😕
4.) has some one ever used one of those transformers and can recommend them? Or any other suggestions?
TTSAS0500 - SUPREME AUDIO grade transformer TSAS500VA - voltage to 50V - Shop Toroidy.pl
5.) In the BOM of the PSU the thermistors of the original PSU for the F5 are not listed. Anyway they should be used (and also the 0.0033 cap at the primary windings)?
6.) As often mentioned in the thread here, using the wrong values for the snubber parts can make things even worse, so i think i might leave those parts..?
7.) The original F5 PSU uses 4 x 0R47 per rail for the CRC resistors. Is this also ok for the Aleph-J?
Sorry for all the questions, i hope some one can give me answers 😱
Best regards,
Philip
There is very little difference in the final current/voltage arriving at the amplifier/load that can be affected by any of the power supply rectifiers, provided you ensure that the PSU output does not ring when the load suddenly changes current value.
I think there are two schools of thought.
a.) local decoupling of the supply rails at the client load circuit.
b.) no local decoupling at the client circuit.
for a.) It is my belief that fancy capacitors at the PSU are too far away from the client circuit to give any useful function.
for b.) It is my belief that any remaining fast changes in current demand combined with the inductance of the PSU to amplifier connection result in no change on sound, or very significant changes in sound, or any of the changes between those two limits. The risk of ringing is in my view increased by omitting local supply rail decoupling and trying to "speed up" the PSU by adding, or changing to, ultra low ESR capacitors.
I don't understand the question
Toroidy has been used by and recommended by many Builders on this Forum. You need to research more.
The circuit around the tempco thermistors has changed. You need to decide which you want to try, or try both and compare, or omit completely
Read Hagerman and measure, or read quasi-modo and measure.
The R value depends completely on your requirement/limitations for voltage drop and filtering. They in turn depend on what current you want to pass.
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Yes, with 15,000uF (or bigger) capacitors in each spot, it will be fine for either amp.
The blocks are more inexpensive, easier to use, run cooler, and take up much less room.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS/LDhWhDI65nslKtwYZS2PGo=
Probably not. But, if it makes you think it's better, you will perceive that it sounds better.
Papa uses these - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhGzzPnOvxx%2bv/uiGxUihHcBE=
http://sklep.toroidy.pl/en_US/p/TTS...rade-transformer-TSAS500VA-voltage-to-50V/412
I have heard of people using Toroidy to great success. I haven't personally used one. I'd like to.
Yes, use them. The thermistors are to keep the inrush low enough that a reasonable size fuse can be used, the cap is to keep the switch from arcing. Also, both do a bit of filtering of the AC.
CL-60 thermistors, X/Y rated cap.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMuqZeNK75brD/rjMwDFP8g4OlkeLoshPUk=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMsh%2b1woXyUXj4xfTb2icZkV4k9Uy7aiYgk=
Correct. No snubber.
Yes, perfect.
Build the amp without the soft start first, once everything is adjusted and working properly, then add the soft start.
I would do the opposite... build the power supply as you want it. Verify it. Then add the amp circuit.
Hey! I have a question. As you advised i bought the blocks but just now i realized that the bottom plate of my case has a lot of cooling/air slits. So due to the other parts i want to put into the amp there would be no place where i can mount the blocks so that the full area of the back has contact to the plate. (I hope it's clear what i mean...😕)
So, how hot do those blocks get (for an F5 amp)? Would it be ok to mount them where there are those slits? (by this just some of the area of the back of the blocks has direct contact to the case...)
I hope somebody can help me...
Hi,
I am gathering info before i start to build the honey badger class ab amp. i am using 2x PSU v3 with separate toroidals to power each channel separatly. I have 2 MT2144 50+50 Volts 3.0 amps 6.0 amps 300VA from an old build. The build guide suggests 2 Antek AN-4445 45+45 4.4 amps 400VA. Will the MT2144 be suitable for the amplifier?
Cheers,
Tom
I am gathering info before i start to build the honey badger class ab amp. i am using 2x PSU v3 with separate toroidals to power each channel separatly. I have 2 MT2144 50+50 Volts 3.0 amps 6.0 amps 300VA from an old build. The build guide suggests 2 Antek AN-4445 45+45 4.4 amps 400VA. Will the MT2144 be suitable for the amplifier?
Cheers,
Tom
A dual 50Vac transformer will give ~±75Vdc
That is extremely high for any amplifier.
And cannot be used with 80V capacitors. You will need 100V capacitors.
Even dual 45Vac is high.
I got >170W into 8r0 on a Leach Lo Tim, from a 230:40-0-40Vac transformer running on 240Vac mains power.
Although the output stage was not rated for 4ohms duty, the max output was >300W into 4r0.
That is extremely high for any amplifier.
And cannot be used with 80V capacitors. You will need 100V capacitors.
Even dual 45Vac is high.
I got >170W into 8r0 on a Leach Lo Tim, from a 230:40-0-40Vac transformer running on 240Vac mains power.
Although the output stage was not rated for 4ohms duty, the max output was >300W into 4r0.