The way I see it in the schematic you must use one 8v for the motor supply and can use one 5v (supplying all four 5v sections) by removing L4
Tony
Tony
The way I see it in the schematic you must use one 8v for the motor supply and can use one 5v (supplying all four 5v sections) by removing L4
Tony
Yes, If you want to power V1=V2=V3=V4 from a separate 5V supply, remove only L4.
Regards,
Tibi
Yes, If you want to power V1=V2=V3=V4 from a separate 5V supply, remove only L4.
Regards,
Tibi
Awesome 🙂
Yes, If you want to power V1=V2=V3=V4 from a separate 5V supply, remove only L4.
Regards,
Tibi
I forget to mention that, in this case, to power 5V trough V4.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi,
have you tried seperate supplies?...as if you have had the time.
First Shiga prototype was with separate supplies for each section.
Regards,
Tibi
Perhaps interesting to report Mr. Jung's new shunt regulator, there is a book released where about 13 well-known regulators are tested measuring and listening test, someone already read this book?
Here you find "some info": http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/220734-mr-jungs-new-shunt-regulator.html
http://waltsblog.waltjung.org/
Regards,
Rudy
Here you find "some info": http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/220734-mr-jungs-new-shunt-regulator.html
http://waltsblog.waltjung.org/
Regards,
Rudy
First Shiga prototype was with separate supplies for each section.
Regards,
Tibi
If it was in prototype and not in realeased version, I am to assume you did not think it added anything to the sound to have seperates?
With my new Blue ESR meter my BG F 2200 uF reads .01 Ohm ESR before reforming. I guess that's okay, based on what I've read.
If it was in prototype and not in realeased version, I am to assume you did not think it added anything to the sound to have seperates?
In fact it adds, but I had to jump from a 3400euro (Vienna-Acoustics) speaker set, to a 9000euro (Triangle Magellan) to get the difference.
So far the biggest Shiga improvements I found are:
- Tentlabs clock
- separate power supply for Tentlabs clock
- changing S/PDIF output resistors to Vishay VAR-Series "naked" Z-FOIL
- replacing L7808 reg with LT1086-adj. Please add a 47uF tantalum over R50
- add C11 - 1nF silver-mica
Regards,
Tibi
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With my new Blue ESR meter my BG F 2200 uF reads .01 Ohm ESR before reforming. I guess that's okay, based on what I've read.
It is in specs, however a LOW ESR 2200uF cap will indicate 0.00 Ohm
Regards,
Tibi
.01 can in fact be close to 0.005
I have same ESR meter and for organic semiconductor cap over 100uF/50V I get 0.00
Blue ESR is working at 100KHz.
With advancedevices smat tweezers I get other results, but this is working at 10KHz.
Regards,
Tibi
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Tibi, you know we all have the greatest respect for what you've done
, but in the items you've listed which have improved the Shoga, can you describe "how" it has improved in terms of its sound qualities, soundtsgaing, articulation, smoothness etc?
I'm worried that at some point this thing is going to get so good that improvements may become subjective.

I'm worried that at some point this thing is going to get so good that improvements may become subjective.
Tibi, you know we all have the greatest respect for what you've done, but in the items you've listed which have improved the Shoga, can you describe "how" it has improved in terms of its sound qualities, soundtsgaing, articulation, smoothness etc?
I'm worried that at some point this thing is going to get so good that improvements may become subjective.
I said once and I repeat, I´m not the man to comment my own design/product. Sorry, I´m not a marketing man.
Beside this, all improvements are highly related to the system each of us is using and of course, personal taste.
What I can tell you is that I´m usualy looking for better instruments separation, body and clarity, while keeping musicality. I´m also paying very close attention to attack and decay.
Regards,
Tibi
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What I can tell you is that I´m usualy looking for better instruments separation, body and clarity, while keeping musicality. I´m also paying very close attention to attack and decay.
Regards,
Tibi
That sir, is a good set of standards. Enough to put your comments into some perspective. Thank you.
Start to reform the capacitor by using a 100K resistor at half of his nominal rated voltage and measure the potential across. The voltage should decrease slowly till 0V or near 0V. If you measure any potential across resistor this is caused by the leakage current. As the cap is reforming the potential is going to -> 0V.
After a while (few hours) you´ll see no more decrease in potential across resistor. Discharge capacitor trough a 10K resistor, let him one hour and discharge again.
Now is time to reform at nominal voltage. Use a 10K resistor this time. The process will be faster. Measure potential across 10K resistor and if possible monitor with a data collector multimeter.
The cap forming started last night at 8 PM. I was happy to see that it did not explode when I walked away. Voltage across the 100 KOhm resistor went down as expected. It went down to less than ~200 mV within 1 hour. As of this morning it was down to 11 mV. Wondering how far to push it before I say the first phase is done.
Ha ha! After the forming my BG "F" 1000uF cap now reads 992uF (it originally read 985), with an ESR of .01 Ohm. 

Tony,
I didn´t say that BG are not good in this regard. I just only wanted to highlight what specs are relevant and you should look for in case of upgrade.
C62 don´t need to be so fancy. MKP was a handy and pricewise solution. A better cap in that position may by a PIO, same value, but substantially bigger in size.
Also a 100nF/400V PIO in primary side of the trafo can have a great effect. Just try and you´ll be surprised. 🙂
C66 can be any value between 1nF - 22nF and I know only few manufacturers - one is Cornell Dubilier.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi, with regard to C66, on the schematic you have it listed as a NPO. Is a silver mica better in this position than the NPO?
Also a 100nF/400V PIO in primary side of the trafo can have a great effect. Just try and you´ll be surprised. 🙂
Hi Tibi,
How do you connect the 100nF to the primary side of the transformer? Is it just connect the PIO to the 0V and 220V on the primary AC input of the transformer?
Thanks
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