Re: outpute stage for 963sa
Hi Chris,
You're right! This is purly a suggestion. I personaly know Mattijs from Machmat. A very good audio designer!! He has first class service and will help DIY'ers to implement his kits.
If you like it, give it a try.
Rgds,
Saffier
cporada said:Thanks Saffier. So, if I wanted to use one of those kits to upgrade my 963sa, I would need to order one of the Stereo single ended output module, and one of the Resistor coupled power supply for the tube output stage; is that correct? Chris
Hi Chris,
You're right! This is purly a suggestion. I personaly know Mattijs from Machmat. A very good audio designer!! He has first class service and will help DIY'ers to implement his kits.
If you like it, give it a try.
Rgds,
Saffier
Re: output stage
I have replaced the opamp with AD8066... I was plaeased with the results and it only took 30 minutes or so to do.
I have replaced the opamp with AD8066... I was plaeased with the results and it only took 30 minutes or so to do.
removing the P-SCAN board
Many people that have tweaked their 963sa have stated that they removed the P-SCAN board. I have two questions: first, does this improve the sound (if so, why?), and second, how do you remove the board, do you just unscrew all of the holding screws and gently unplug it? Do you need to do anything to compensate for the fact that you've removed it from the player?
Thanks
Chris
Many people that have tweaked their 963sa have stated that they removed the P-SCAN board. I have two questions: first, does this improve the sound (if so, why?), and second, how do you remove the board, do you just unscrew all of the holding screws and gently unplug it? Do you need to do anything to compensate for the fact that you've removed it from the player?
Thanks
Chris
output stage
Hi Saffier,
Thanks for your helpful response. I contacted MachMat and they told me that they could probably walk me through the installation into the 963sa but that knowledge of the circuits was required and that the soldering near the DAC was surface mount, which makes me awfully nervous since I have no understanding of the electronics, and certainly can't hand solder SMP parts. Do you know whether surface mount soldering would be required to tie into the DAC output or whether the soldering/DIY'ing would be very tough if I just bought the tube output stage fully assembled from MachMat?
Thanks
Chris
Hi Saffier,
Thanks for your helpful response. I contacted MachMat and they told me that they could probably walk me through the installation into the 963sa but that knowledge of the circuits was required and that the soldering near the DAC was surface mount, which makes me awfully nervous since I have no understanding of the electronics, and certainly can't hand solder SMP parts. Do you know whether surface mount soldering would be required to tie into the DAC output or whether the soldering/DIY'ing would be very tough if I just bought the tube output stage fully assembled from MachMat?
Thanks
Chris
AD8066
Hi Sbelyo
Thanks for the tip on the AD8066. Is it a simple plug-and-play installation, i.e., do you just take out the old op-amps and solder in the 8066's in their place? Are they standard solder or surface mount soldering? Is there any room in that part of the board or is it a really tight squeeze to get the iron in?
Thanks
Chris
Hi Sbelyo
Thanks for the tip on the AD8066. Is it a simple plug-and-play installation, i.e., do you just take out the old op-amps and solder in the 8066's in their place? Are they standard solder or surface mount soldering? Is there any room in that part of the board or is it a really tight squeeze to get the iron in?
Thanks
Chris
output stage
Hi Chris,
For exchanging the opamp to AD68066 you have to desolder the AD8032. Both opamps are SMD components of the same size. 4 small legs on each side. You do need a very steady hand and magnifying glass to do the job. If go that route, I suggest you first practice on a SMD PCB you do not use anymore to see how the solder/desolder process is working out.
I did the exchange of the AD8066 myself, worked out fine.
If you go the tube output route you can do so without desoldering SMD parts which makes it a bit easier.You just have to connect the tube outputboard to the DAC. Two small cables to two small legs of the DAC. That's the hard part, the rest is fairly easy. Mattijs and/or me can help you through the process. I have the schematics. If you need them please give your e-mail address.
Regards,
Saffier
Hi Chris,
For exchanging the opamp to AD68066 you have to desolder the AD8032. Both opamps are SMD components of the same size. 4 small legs on each side. You do need a very steady hand and magnifying glass to do the job. If go that route, I suggest you first practice on a SMD PCB you do not use anymore to see how the solder/desolder process is working out.
I did the exchange of the AD8066 myself, worked out fine.
If you go the tube output route you can do so without desoldering SMD parts which makes it a bit easier.You just have to connect the tube outputboard to the DAC. Two small cables to two small legs of the DAC. That's the hard part, the rest is fairly easy. Mattijs and/or me can help you through the process. I have the schematics. If you need them please give your e-mail address.
Regards,
Saffier
tent labs PSU upgrade
Has anyone tried the Tent Labs drop-in PSU replacement for the 963sa? I see it is being sold by HotRodAudioMods in the US for a reasonable price, and am curious if anyone has tried it and has an opinion. It seems the best way to dramatically improve the PSU is probably to replace it, and I would guess that Guido Tent is probably the best person to figure out a way to do it.
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Chris
Has anyone tried the Tent Labs drop-in PSU replacement for the 963sa? I see it is being sold by HotRodAudioMods in the US for a reasonable price, and am curious if anyone has tried it and has an opinion. It seems the best way to dramatically improve the PSU is probably to replace it, and I would guess that Guido Tent is probably the best person to figure out a way to do it.
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Chris
schematics
I'm from Hungary, so my English is not the best, sorry.
I recently bought a new Philips 963 cheap, and intend to modify it. Can You help me with the schematics, layout, service manuals, or anything that may help modification? (Maybe they're already available on the net, just I haven't found yet.)
Thanks!
I'm from Hungary, so my English is not the best, sorry.
I recently bought a new Philips 963 cheap, and intend to modify it. Can You help me with the schematics, layout, service manuals, or anything that may help modification? (Maybe they're already available on the net, just I haven't found yet.)
Thanks!
Jon
I'm interested in the schematics too.
My E-mail address is: tutekov@gmail.com
Thanks in advance.
Asen
I'm interested in the schematics too.
My E-mail address is: tutekov@gmail.com
Thanks in advance.
Asen
my 963sa won't read discs with grungebuster mat
Hi everyone,
I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I purchased a Herbie's grungebuster cd mat and my philips 963sa won;t read the disc with the mat on. I contacted Steve at Herbie's and he immediately sent me a grungebuster 2 to try out free of charge. This one works with redbook cd's and single layer SACDs (and greatly improves the sound) but won't read hybrid multilayer discs with the mat. Has anyone had a similar experience? I know the mats are both great, since they play fine in my old Nakamichi Cd player and greatly improve the sound, but I'd love to use them on my 963sa. Can the laser on my 963sa be out of alignment or something? It seems it sometimes takes a while to read hybrid discs even without the grungebuster, but it always does after some hesitation? Is there a way to check the alignment or align it? Can it be I need a firmware upgrade? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
Hi everyone,
I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I purchased a Herbie's grungebuster cd mat and my philips 963sa won;t read the disc with the mat on. I contacted Steve at Herbie's and he immediately sent me a grungebuster 2 to try out free of charge. This one works with redbook cd's and single layer SACDs (and greatly improves the sound) but won't read hybrid multilayer discs with the mat. Has anyone had a similar experience? I know the mats are both great, since they play fine in my old Nakamichi Cd player and greatly improve the sound, but I'd love to use them on my 963sa. Can the laser on my 963sa be out of alignment or something? It seems it sometimes takes a while to read hybrid discs even without the grungebuster, but it always does after some hesitation? Is there a way to check the alignment or align it? Can it be I need a firmware upgrade? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
firmware for 963sa
Does anyone have the firmware update for the 963sa that they would share with me? How does one update the firmware, and what are the benefits of doing so? I read somewhere that this helps somewhat with the clicking noise from the transport; is this true? Also, I'm hoping it may enable me to read hybrid discs better, both with and without my grungebuster mat.
Thanks for any help
Chris
Does anyone have the firmware update for the 963sa that they would share with me? How does one update the firmware, and what are the benefits of doing so? I read somewhere that this helps somewhat with the clicking noise from the transport; is this true? Also, I'm hoping it may enable me to read hybrid discs better, both with and without my grungebuster mat.
Thanks for any help
Chris
adjusting cd clamper in 963sa
Hi everyone,
It has been suggested to me that all that I need to do to get the grungebuster mat to work with my 963sa is to make a slight adjustment to the clamping mechanism in the 963 to allow room to fit the mat with the CD. Does anyone know how to make this type of adjustment that would be willing to walk me through it?
Thanks
Chris
Hi everyone,
It has been suggested to me that all that I need to do to get the grungebuster mat to work with my 963sa is to make a slight adjustment to the clamping mechanism in the 963 to allow room to fit the mat with the CD. Does anyone know how to make this type of adjustment that would be willing to walk me through it?
Thanks
Chris
Help!
I've just purchased another DVD963SA. It arrived on Friday and I eagerly unpacked it only to find that it won't power up
. The seller assures me that it worked before being shipped and I don't doubt that.
On power up neither the display or standby led illuminate , the only sign of life is that the optical out led is red. There is no activity from the laser (which normally goes through a focus procedure I think). I've run the dealer script test (hold OPEN/CLOSE + PLAY and then connect to the mains). It runs to test 5 and then returns ERROR. Test 5 is an I2C communications test with the basic engine (this is the heart of the player). The interactive test (OPEN/CLOSE + STOP and power up) runs through the display tests ok and the mono board digital tests but when it gets to the mono board servo and basic engine tests the display just goes blank.
So far, I've checked the output of the smps and the supplies going along the ribbon to the mono board, they all seem ok although the +5V supply on the mono board only measures 4.65V (it's 4.95V at the output of the smps) - is this significant I wonder ?
I don't have a circuit diagram of the mono board (a SD4.00SA_CH assembly) which contains the DVD loader and decoder ICs so I don't really know where to look. Does anyone out there have any suggestions about how I might start to go about diagnosing and fixing this ? Hopefully it's something simple. 😉
Cheers,
Jon
I've just purchased another DVD963SA. It arrived on Friday and I eagerly unpacked it only to find that it won't power up

On power up neither the display or standby led illuminate , the only sign of life is that the optical out led is red. There is no activity from the laser (which normally goes through a focus procedure I think). I've run the dealer script test (hold OPEN/CLOSE + PLAY and then connect to the mains). It runs to test 5 and then returns ERROR. Test 5 is an I2C communications test with the basic engine (this is the heart of the player). The interactive test (OPEN/CLOSE + STOP and power up) runs through the display tests ok and the mono board digital tests but when it gets to the mono board servo and basic engine tests the display just goes blank.
So far, I've checked the output of the smps and the supplies going along the ribbon to the mono board, they all seem ok although the +5V supply on the mono board only measures 4.65V (it's 4.95V at the output of the smps) - is this significant I wonder ?
I don't have a circuit diagram of the mono board (a SD4.00SA_CH assembly) which contains the DVD loader and decoder ICs so I don't really know where to look. Does anyone out there have any suggestions about how I might start to go about diagnosing and fixing this ? Hopefully it's something simple. 😉
Cheers,
Jon
Hi,
I've recently discovered and joined this forum and abruptly I've got a temperature of tweakening!
I decided to tweak and improve my Philips 963SA, according to the informations I've collected in this long thread. But I lack the basic informations, which are the schematic circuits as I couldn't yet find them on the web!
Can someone of you provide to me the schematics of 963SA?
Thanks a lot
Nicola
I've recently discovered and joined this forum and abruptly I've got a temperature of tweakening!
I decided to tweak and improve my Philips 963SA, according to the informations I've collected in this long thread. But I lack the basic informations, which are the schematic circuits as I couldn't yet find them on the web!
Can someone of you provide to me the schematics of 963SA?
Thanks a lot
Nicola
Hi,
Not quite sure what you mean there, C2421 and C2429 are the DC blocking output caps from IC7405. There aren't any ceramic bypasses here.
Jon
Can someone tell me the numbers for the ceramic caps that bypass E-Caps #2421, 2429
Not quite sure what you mean there, C2421 and C2429 are the DC blocking output caps from IC7405. There aren't any ceramic bypasses here.
Jon
sbelyo said:Can someone tell me the numbers for the ceramic caps that bypass E-Caps #2421, 2429
Hi sbelyo,
C2421 and 2429 are the front L and R output caps. They are not bypassed by any ceramics.
Regards,
Ray.
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