regulator upgrade 963SA battery psu
Just swapped the 7808 and 7908 regulators in my battery power supply for the 963SA opamps and digital circuitry for some super regulators from Burson Audio.
It;s doen in just a couple of minutes, take the old ones out and solder the new ones in, check voltages, connect and listen to some music.
Than you realise what kind of noise the standard regulators produce and polute the sound.
You'll get much deeper sound stage and nuch more inner detail, digital edge is further reduced. Great upgrade after all.
You can build these super regulators yourselves but you can also buy them, they are less money than some Black Gates.
Regards,
Saffier
www.picturetrail.com/s.brull
Just swapped the 7808 and 7908 regulators in my battery power supply for the 963SA opamps and digital circuitry for some super regulators from Burson Audio.
It;s doen in just a couple of minutes, take the old ones out and solder the new ones in, check voltages, connect and listen to some music.
Than you realise what kind of noise the standard regulators produce and polute the sound.
You'll get much deeper sound stage and nuch more inner detail, digital edge is further reduced. Great upgrade after all.
You can build these super regulators yourselves but you can also buy them, they are less money than some Black Gates.
Regards,
Saffier
www.picturetrail.com/s.brull
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AD8066
Hi Sugarn,
Interesting to hear that you also replaced the opamps in the I/V stage. Did you also replace the AD8032 just before the output? Is it a big step forward? How do you power them? SMPS/linear/battery?
The regulators can be purchased at
www.bursonaudio.com
They are realy good value, you cannot build these yourselves for the same money, unless you buy the components to make a couple of hundred of them.
You can ask Alex at Bursonaudio for the schematic, maybe he'll share it with you.
Best regards,
Saffier
Hi Sugarn,
Interesting to hear that you also replaced the opamps in the I/V stage. Did you also replace the AD8032 just before the output? Is it a big step forward? How do you power them? SMPS/linear/battery?
The regulators can be purchased at
www.bursonaudio.com
They are realy good value, you cannot build these yourselves for the same money, unless you buy the components to make a couple of hundred of them.
You can ask Alex at Bursonaudio for the schematic, maybe he'll share it with you.
Best regards,
Saffier
Currents
Hi Saffier
You mentioned you also supply the digital parts with your battery PS.
Do you have any idea about the current demand for both analog and digital parts of the player ?
I would like to replace the whole switcher, with two toroids...
I could measure myself, but reinventing the wheel is not always a good thing to do...
TIA
A8
Hi Saffier
You mentioned you also supply the digital parts with your battery PS.
Do you have any idea about the current demand for both analog and digital parts of the player ?
I would like to replace the whole switcher, with two toroids...
I could measure myself, but reinventing the wheel is not always a good thing to do...
TIA
A8
Hi Saffier,
I have already replaced output opamp with AD8620 and successfully installed terroid transformer linear power supply with LM317 and LM337 regulator.
Sound is very much improved when I swap in AD8066 in I/V stage.
If I change regulator from LM337 and LM317 to Burson regulator, how much it will improve the audio qualtity?
I have already replaced output opamp with AD8620 and successfully installed terroid transformer linear power supply with LM317 and LM337 regulator.
Sound is very much improved when I swap in AD8066 in I/V stage.
If I change regulator from LM337 and LM317 to Burson regulator, how much it will improve the audio qualtity?
regulator
Hi Sugarn,
The Burson regulator brought more in soundstage depth and detail than the opamp upgrade to AD8066. SO I'm quite happy with the results. I've also put stillpoints ERS sheets in the players casing to dampen EMI and RFI. The SMPS, which I still need, is generating a lot of RFI and is poluting the sensitive digital and analog circuitry. Cheap and effective upgrade.
Maybe I'll exchange the AD8022 opamps as well...hope it's not to much than.
Regards,
Saffier
Hi Sugarn,
The Burson regulator brought more in soundstage depth and detail than the opamp upgrade to AD8066. SO I'm quite happy with the results. I've also put stillpoints ERS sheets in the players casing to dampen EMI and RFI. The SMPS, which I still need, is generating a lot of RFI and is poluting the sensitive digital and analog circuitry. Cheap and effective upgrade.
Maybe I'll exchange the AD8022 opamps as well...hope it's not to much than.
Regards,
Saffier
Current
Hi 8A,
I have never measured it, but with new battery's you can run the player for at least 7 hours in a run, after one year of use it goes down to 3 to 4 hours. Just replace the battery's for new ones and of you go. It also depends on the quality of the battery's and the cost of course.
The only part of the player that has not yet been tweaked is the drive. Appart from adding some extra mass to the black plastic tray houlder of the drive. But I still have mechanical noise which for sure is adding jitter and is addressing the error correction circuitry. This is realy bothering me. Mechanical stability is poor, I mean, if you play a disc the first two or three tracks, the player will make a noise, coming from the vibrations in the drive mechanisme
Any suggestions?
Regards,
Saffier
Hi 8A,
I have never measured it, but with new battery's you can run the player for at least 7 hours in a run, after one year of use it goes down to 3 to 4 hours. Just replace the battery's for new ones and of you go. It also depends on the quality of the battery's and the cost of course.
The only part of the player that has not yet been tweaked is the drive. Appart from adding some extra mass to the black plastic tray houlder of the drive. But I still have mechanical noise which for sure is adding jitter and is addressing the error correction circuitry. This is realy bothering me. Mechanical stability is poor, I mean, if you play a disc the first two or three tracks, the player will make a noise, coming from the vibrations in the drive mechanisme
Any suggestions?
Regards,
Saffier
I replaced the AD8032 with 2 opa627au's mounted on a browdog adapter. Prior to the linear supply that was the biggest improvement in sound quality. I had swapped the 8032 out for a 8066 but I thought it sounded cold and shrill with little bass.
I'm going to swap out the ad8022's for opa2822's when they come in the mail. I've also ordered Nichicon Muse KZ's for the Front dac, upsampler and front channel buffers.
I'm going to swap out the ad8022's for opa2822's when they come in the mail. I've also ordered Nichicon Muse KZ's for the Front dac, upsampler and front channel buffers.
Wiring of linear supplies
Hi,
The existing SMPS is an off-line supply with both the hot and cold sides floating from earth and isolated from each other. In fact the player has no earth connection even in countries which do have a third earth pin on their mains plugs.
The system 0V seems to be connected to the chassis at the SMPS pcb through the mounting bracket and on the output pcb through a tab to the case. (It may be connected at other points too).
Would anyone who has fitted a seperate linear supply like to comment about how they have dealt with earthing the supply and how and where they have wired the return 0V on the output of their supplies into the player.
Regards,
Jon
Hi,
The existing SMPS is an off-line supply with both the hot and cold sides floating from earth and isolated from each other. In fact the player has no earth connection even in countries which do have a third earth pin on their mains plugs.
The system 0V seems to be connected to the chassis at the SMPS pcb through the mounting bracket and on the output pcb through a tab to the case. (It may be connected at other points too).
Would anyone who has fitted a seperate linear supply like to comment about how they have dealt with earthing the supply and how and where they have wired the return 0V on the output of their supplies into the player.
Regards,
Jon
Hi,
So, you connected the primary between the live and neutral on the IEC input and connected the ground/0V on the secondary side of the transformer to the terminal on the A/V board but no connection to earth ?
I want to replace the standard plastic IEC connector with a metal bodied mains filter and I am wondering whether the chassis should be connected to earth or isolated from it. The ground terminal on the A/V board is connected to the chassis I believe.
Cheers,
Jon
So, you connected the primary between the live and neutral on the IEC input and connected the ground/0V on the secondary side of the transformer to the terminal on the A/V board but no connection to earth ?
I want to replace the standard plastic IEC connector with a metal bodied mains filter and I am wondering whether the chassis should be connected to earth or isolated from it. The ground terminal on the A/V board is connected to the chassis I believe.
Cheers,
Jon
That's correctJonHarrison said:
I did exactly what you want. I have mine connected to ground and it hasn't given me any trouble.JonHarrison said:
Here's how it's wired
http://www.tangentsoft.net/elec/tread/bitmaps/dual-supply.png
dead 963sa
Hi. I'm hoping you experts can help me out.
My 963sa is dead. The power button doesn't do anything. So I opened it up to take a look. I checked the fuse on the power supply board and it is OK.
That's about the extent of my electronics ability. I've built several Bottlehead kits, but I wouldn't know how to debug the problem with my 963sa.
I'd guess that power supply board is dead. Is there some place I could order a replacement board?
Thanks for any advice.
Hi. I'm hoping you experts can help me out.
My 963sa is dead. The power button doesn't do anything. So I opened it up to take a look. I checked the fuse on the power supply board and it is OK.
That's about the extent of my electronics ability. I've built several Bottlehead kits, but I wouldn't know how to debug the problem with my 963sa.
I'd guess that power supply board is dead. Is there some place I could order a replacement board?
Thanks for any advice.
Dave,
What were you doing before the player died ?
The player starts up in standby mode with a +12V supply from the SMPS to power the start-up circuitry. There is a signal from the player to switch the supply on fully. Is there any sign of activity from the DVD mechanism when you apply power , the laser assembly should move ? Do you still have a disk loaded, if so it should spin up ? Don't press the power button, just connect the power and see what happens.
I tried to find a source for the switch-mode power supply board myself but they are no longer available. I blew my board up whilst testing it, fortunately now I've repaired it but I don't recommend you fault find switch-mode power supplies unless you know what you're doing - safety / high voltages and all that.
If you feel competent to make some measurements with a DVM the long connector (0201) at the front of the power supply board (wide cable to the A/V board) has the following pin-out.
1 +3.3V
2 +3.3V
3 GND
4 +12V
5 +12V standby
6 GND
7 +5V
8 GND
9 -12V
10 GND
11 -32V
12 standby control
You can run the power supply without it connected to the player (remove the output connector 0201) and measure the level on the +12V standby pin with reference to one of the ground pins. Be careful, firstly there is 300V+ around the input of the board and it isn't earthed, secondly the pins on the output connector are quite small and closely packed, make sure you don't short them together when trying to measure the voltage. Obviously connect and disconnect the cables with the power off and be aware that the main reservoir cap (2116) holds several hundred volts for several seconds AFTER you have removed power from the player.
Regards,
Jon
What were you doing before the player died ?
The player starts up in standby mode with a +12V supply from the SMPS to power the start-up circuitry. There is a signal from the player to switch the supply on fully. Is there any sign of activity from the DVD mechanism when you apply power , the laser assembly should move ? Do you still have a disk loaded, if so it should spin up ? Don't press the power button, just connect the power and see what happens.
I tried to find a source for the switch-mode power supply board myself but they are no longer available. I blew my board up whilst testing it, fortunately now I've repaired it but I don't recommend you fault find switch-mode power supplies unless you know what you're doing - safety / high voltages and all that.
If you feel competent to make some measurements with a DVM the long connector (0201) at the front of the power supply board (wide cable to the A/V board) has the following pin-out.
1 +3.3V
2 +3.3V
3 GND
4 +12V
5 +12V standby
6 GND
7 +5V
8 GND
9 -12V
10 GND
11 -32V
12 standby control
You can run the power supply without it connected to the player (remove the output connector 0201) and measure the level on the +12V standby pin with reference to one of the ground pins. Be careful, firstly there is 300V+ around the input of the board and it isn't earthed, secondly the pins on the output connector are quite small and closely packed, make sure you don't short them together when trying to measure the voltage. Obviously connect and disconnect the cables with the power off and be aware that the main reservoir cap (2116) holds several hundred volts for several seconds AFTER you have removed power from the player.
Regards,
Jon
963SA problem
Please try to measure the voltages as suggested by Jon. Secondly, I 've had the same problem, seems that I didn't connect properly the ribon cable from the SMPS to the AV board. Connection was not good on the AV board side. After pushing the connector with more precision on to the board the problem was over.
BTW, did you once touch the IC on the SMPS with your hand/fingers? Might also have caused the problem, this IC is very sensitive to static electricity.
If you need a spare SMPS please contact: www.effectiveaudiomods.com
Regards,
Saffier
Please try to measure the voltages as suggested by Jon. Secondly, I 've had the same problem, seems that I didn't connect properly the ribon cable from the SMPS to the AV board. Connection was not good on the AV board side. After pushing the connector with more precision on to the board the problem was over.
BTW, did you once touch the IC on the SMPS with your hand/fingers? Might also have caused the problem, this IC is very sensitive to static electricity.
If you need a spare SMPS please contact: www.effectiveaudiomods.com
Regards,
Saffier
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check the voltages tonight and let you know what I find.
I'm pretty sure nothing happens when I plug the player in. There is a disc stuck in there, and nothing moved when I plugged it in.
I'm not sure what happened to kill the 963. I think it was a power spike, since my TV also kicked off, although I didn't actually witness it. I just saw that the TV had to be reset.
So if the SMPS is bad, I'm pretty much hosed then? It sounds like there aren't any replacement boards anymore.
I'm pretty sure nothing happens when I plug the player in. There is a disc stuck in there, and nothing moved when I plugged it in.
I'm not sure what happened to kill the 963. I think it was a power spike, since my TV also kicked off, although I didn't actually witness it. I just saw that the TV had to be reset.
So if the SMPS is bad, I'm pretty much hosed then? It sounds like there aren't any replacement boards anymore.