Thanks for the schematics Jon. However the VKK decoupling smd capacity measures 10k resistance as well, so it's not shorted.
Any other enlightning idea's? 😉
Very cool of you to take the effort by the way.
Any other enlightning idea's? 😉
Very cool of you to take the effort by the way.
My 963SA doesn't respond anymore after putting the plug in. I investigated some in the powersupply and checked the voltages that are suggested in this forum.
They seems to check out when I have the power supply disconnected from the AV module. When I connect the two, the -32V supply drops to 0V !
Perhaps we have been on a wild goose chase. I read your message and assumed that with the A/V board connected it was only the -32V supply that was switching off - the other supplies were ok. Is this actually the case ?
Pin 12 on the power supply connector is the standby signal, this switches on/off all but the +12V standby supply (pin 5). The standby signal is controlled by the IC on the display PC. The system starts in standby mode. When you press the power button on the front panel the IC controls the standby signal to bring the unit online.
So does anything happen when you first apply power to the unit - is the led by the power button on ?
Regards,
Jon
I'm not at home right now, so I can't doublecheck. But if I remember correctly, the voltages are ok on the powersupply when disconnected and then turned on by enabling pin 12(?). But if the powersupply is connected to the rest it will not turn on when the powerbutton is pressed.So does anything happen when you first apply power to the unit - is the led by the power button on ?
I did not know that the led next to the switch lid up when only the powercable is connected. Didn't remember how it was before, but you are right: the led is not on!
So maybe there is something wrong with that mechanism. Does it mean that the front panel IC is broken (hope not!) or are there other possibilities?
Cheers,
Olaf
Hi Olaf,
The sequence of operation is this :-
1. Apply power
2. Standby led (above power button) illuminates and DVD mechanism steps laser sled in and out
3. System goes into standby mode
4. Operator presses power button
5. System comes out of standby, DVD mechanism attempts to read TOC and unit displays disc index or 'NO DISC' on front panel display.
I assume that in step 2 the power supply switches on fully and then goes back into standby.
Hold the <OPEN/CLOSE> and <PLAY> buttons down together and connect the unit to the mains. This will run the built in diagnostics. The display will then show BUSY with a number which counts down from 7 to 1 and then will either show ERROR or PASS. Try this and see what happens.
Alternatively hold <OPEN/CLOSE> and <STOP> and apply power. This allows you to run through the interactive tests. Press PLAY to step through the scripts.
Problem is if the display isn't working you may have a problem working out what test it is running or what the result is !
Then the power supply is disconnected from the rest of the player it is active so all the voltages should measure correctly. When you connect it to the A/V board it is in standby mode until activated by the control signal so all the outputs will be disabled except for the +12V standby supply.
Regards,
Jon
The sequence of operation is this :-
1. Apply power
2. Standby led (above power button) illuminates and DVD mechanism steps laser sled in and out
3. System goes into standby mode
4. Operator presses power button
5. System comes out of standby, DVD mechanism attempts to read TOC and unit displays disc index or 'NO DISC' on front panel display.
I assume that in step 2 the power supply switches on fully and then goes back into standby.
Hold the <OPEN/CLOSE> and <PLAY> buttons down together and connect the unit to the mains. This will run the built in diagnostics. The display will then show BUSY with a number which counts down from 7 to 1 and then will either show ERROR or PASS. Try this and see what happens.
Alternatively hold <OPEN/CLOSE> and <STOP> and apply power. This allows you to run through the interactive tests. Press PLAY to step through the scripts.
Problem is if the display isn't working you may have a problem working out what test it is running or what the result is !
the voltages are ok on the powersupply when disconnected and then turned on by enabling pin 12(?).
Then the power supply is disconnected from the rest of the player it is active so all the voltages should measure correctly. When you connect it to the A/V board it is in standby mode until activated by the control signal so all the outputs will be disabled except for the +12V standby supply.
Regards,
Jon
Jon thanks,
I think that test procedure is a step too far (although good to know).
The led remains dark. 🙁
I wonder if the +12V gets through. Can you tell me the if I can test this on the AV module connector on the display module?
Man I would like to have the service manual. Would get me one if I knew it was worth while.
I think that test procedure is a step too far (although good to know).
The led remains dark. 🙁
I wonder if the +12V gets through. Can you tell me the if I can test this on the AV module connector on the display module?
Man I would like to have the service manual. Would get me one if I knew it was worth while.
I think that test procedure is a step too far (although good to know).
Look back at post 415
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=915230#post915230
Now I am hopefull again!! I just managed to get it started (as opposed to not starting at all!) and all tests are 'passed' (yes... so the display did work). That is a hopeful sign I guess or not?
But with all my hassling with the inside of the player I stuck at one point. How do I get the dvd tray back in. I opened it a little manually, but I don't remember how to get it back.
If I put the power in now... it's starts testing the laser movement, so maybe if I get the tray back in nicely it will all work again?
But with all my hassling with the inside of the player I stuck at one point. How do I get the dvd tray back in. I opened it a little manually, but I don't remember how to get it back.
If I put the power in now... it's starts testing the laser movement, so maybe if I get the tray back in nicely it will all work again?
Hi,
Have you tried pressing the open/close button ! 😀
There is a slider just in front of the disc clamp move it (right I think) to unlock the tray. You should then be able to move it freely in and out.
Jon
Have you tried pressing the open/close button ! 😀
There is a slider just in front of the disc clamp move it (right I think) to unlock the tray. You should then be able to move it freely in and out.
Jon
Yep that did it.
But oh noooooooooo
I'm back where I'm started! Can't get any response from the machine again. Seems almost unreal and a dream what just happened. Seemed to work one minute and dead the next.
Clueless....
But oh noooooooooo
I'm back where I'm started! Can't get any response from the machine again. Seems almost unreal and a dream what just happened. Seemed to work one minute and dead the next.
Clueless....
I just put the tray back into normal position. Now I cannot get the player to respond anymore. Moving the tray back or forth doesn't change a thing.
So I cannot get into service mode (the 7 tests?) either 🙁 damn, it feels like I could touch the star and then the stair tumbled over...
So I cannot get into service mode (the 7 tests?) either 🙁 damn, it feels like I could touch the star and then the stair tumbled over...

If the <OPEN/CLOSE> + <PLAY> or <STOP> doesn't work I don't know what to suggest.
If you almost got it working with the tray out then perhaps the problem is connected to the mechanism. I don't know what power on tests the loader does. Obviously something is going on when it's stepping the laser along the sled without spinning the disc motor.
I remember a player that had an intermittent startup problem that seemed to be resolved by ensuring that the player had a disc loaded when the power was applied. If there wasn't something for the laser to read then it wouldn't power up.
If you almost got it working with the tray out then perhaps the problem is connected to the mechanism. I don't know what power on tests the loader does. Obviously something is going on when it's stepping the laser along the sled without spinning the disc motor.
I remember a player that had an intermittent startup problem that seemed to be resolved by ensuring that the player had a disc loaded when the power was applied. If there wasn't something for the laser to read then it wouldn't power up.
Hmm... I won't give up yet though 😉
Maybe it's the Power supply unit anyway. I measured with the supply loose from the AV board 0.5V between pin 5 and 6. That should be 12 instead of 0.5 shouldn't it?
If I touch standby control the power supply comes alive and the voltages seem ok, but if the standby voltage isn't ok the player will never start or not? The voltage over the standby led is also something like .4 so that might point to the same problem.
And what's with the fact that the output of the powersupply standby should be 12V, and the AV board to display is 5V standby voltage. I don't see where that change is made in the schematics.
Maybe it's the Power supply unit anyway. I measured with the supply loose from the AV board 0.5V between pin 5 and 6. That should be 12 instead of 0.5 shouldn't it?
If I touch standby control the power supply comes alive and the voltages seem ok, but if the standby voltage isn't ok the player will never start or not? The voltage over the standby led is also something like .4 so that might point to the same problem.
And what's with the fact that the output of the powersupply standby should be 12V, and the AV board to display is 5V standby voltage. I don't see where that change is made in the schematics.
963sa dead
Hi I have had a similar experience. Power cut caused player to be very slow at recovery from mains on to standby.
Over about a period of 12 months the player then became slower and slower to power up from standby.
I switched it off at the mains and back on and it took 4 days to go back into standby.
I then always left it on permanently until my daughter switched it to standby. It would not power up just froze with ------ in the display.
I switched it off at the mains then back on and now it's dead again.
I intend to replace BYD33D but cannot find a supplier for this. I can find a supplier for Rubycon, Black Gate or Schottky so I was wondering if anyone knows if alternatives will work and if so which.
As you can tell I am not an electronics wizzo like most of you guys but I did do the Black Gate Cap mod which was a great success.
Help!!!
Hi I have had a similar experience. Power cut caused player to be very slow at recovery from mains on to standby.
Over about a period of 12 months the player then became slower and slower to power up from standby.
I switched it off at the mains and back on and it took 4 days to go back into standby.
I then always left it on permanently until my daughter switched it to standby. It would not power up just froze with ------ in the display.
I switched it off at the mains then back on and now it's dead again.
I intend to replace BYD33D but cannot find a supplier for this. I can find a supplier for Rubycon, Black Gate or Schottky so I was wondering if anyone knows if alternatives will work and if so which.
As you can tell I am not an electronics wizzo like most of you guys but I did do the Black Gate Cap mod which was a great success.
Help!!!
Since my last posting I purchased a new player which sounded fantastic for about 2 minutes before locking up then the drawer would not open and then locked up altogether. The player is going back for a refund as the only other machine the supplier had was also faulty when he tested it!
John, I see that you are in the UK so I was wondering if you would you be interested in repairing my dead machine for an appropriate fee?
I hope that does not break a rule for asking?!
John, I see that you are in the UK so I was wondering if you would you be interested in repairing my dead machine for an appropriate fee?
I hope that does not break a rule for asking?!
Hi,
Have you tried the built-in self test modes that I detailed in previous posts ?
Cheers,
Jon
Have you tried the built-in self test modes that I detailed in previous posts ?
Cheers,
Jon
Hi Jon
Great to hear from you.
The built in tests do not work as the power does not get through to do them.
I did replace the diode #6280 with a BYD33D as suggested on post 461 but I have to say the diode I removed did not look much like the new one. Not that it made any difference as the player was dead before and is dead now.
I did get hold of the service manual and reading the description of the SMPS and relating it to my problem it seems like the vcc capacitor 2131 could be at fault. This is based purely on logic and no electronics knowledge whatsoever!!!!
I'd be delighted to hear back from you.
regards
Stuart
Great to hear from you.
The built in tests do not work as the power does not get through to do them.
I did replace the diode #6280 with a BYD33D as suggested on post 461 but I have to say the diode I removed did not look much like the new one. Not that it made any difference as the player was dead before and is dead now.
I did get hold of the service manual and reading the description of the SMPS and relating it to my problem it seems like the vcc capacitor 2131 could be at fault. This is based purely on logic and no electronics knowledge whatsoever!!!!
I'd be delighted to hear back from you.
regards
Stuart
Hi Stuart,
What voltages have you checked ? Vcc to Gnd on the controller should be about 15V I think (be very careful measuring the mains side) and +12VSTBY should of course be around 12V.
Cheers,
Jon
What voltages have you checked ? Vcc to Gnd on the controller should be about 15V I think (be very careful measuring the mains side) and +12VSTBY should of course be around 12V.
Cheers,
Jon
Cheers Jon
This is where I show up my shortcomings.
I do not have any testing equipment and I am deffinitely not qualified to take readings with power going through a pcb.
Would it be possible to take resistance measurements using a multimeter without power?
Please forgive me if this question is plainly daft?!!!
Stuart
This is where I show up my shortcomings.
I do not have any testing equipment and I am deffinitely not qualified to take readings with power going through a pcb.
Would it be possible to take resistance measurements using a multimeter without power?
Please forgive me if this question is plainly daft?!!!
Stuart
Hi Stuart,
Well you could measure the resistance of the fuse, but I'm sure you've done that already 😀
Enable your email and we can continue this discussion without cluttering up the board.
Cheers,
Jon
Well you could measure the resistance of the fuse, but I'm sure you've done that already 😀
Enable your email and we can continue this discussion without cluttering up the board.
Cheers,
Jon
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