yeah I read something about that.
do I measure each driver separately from about a meter away centered at each woofer?
You will lose a lot of time with these simulations and it is questionable what you will achieve. Please measure the FR range of one speaker with a tweeter in phase to see what happens to that hole in the FR range.
As NIXIE says, this is not the way to check and fix polarity, which is more straightforward than this... but if you're wanting to continue with a set of measurements for sim purposes...
Maybe start with the basics and measure both at once on the tweeter level, no crossover, at 1m, away from the wall. Look for the floor reflection.
yeah I don’t think putting the woofer into the equation helps. I’m making this harder than it is
as I’m only changing the tweeter.
and the newer tweeter D3004 is pretty darn close with no changes. All it really needs is to change the resistor to 1ohm from 1.5ohms.
as I’m only changing the tweeter.
and the newer tweeter D3004 is pretty darn close with no changes. All it really needs is to change the resistor to 1ohm from 1.5ohms.
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This was just me having fun and messing with the values a bit
and then just the resistor
second one has 1/6 smoothing
and then just the resistor
second one has 1/6 smoothing
I’m sure the D3004 tweeter will just overall be much better.
there is more to a driver than the freq response.
i expect the transient response to be better.
lower distortion
more clarity overall and accuracy.
there is more to a driver than the freq response.
i expect the transient response to be better.
lower distortion
more clarity overall and accuracy.
Tomorrow I’m going to reverse the tweeter and see what that does.
then measure the inductors off the board to make sure what they are exactly.
so then I can make my shopping list and get some good components.
maybe start off with ok components and then when I make the external xo I can mess with some values until I find what I like and then get the final good ones.
then measure the inductors off the board to make sure what they are exactly.
so then I can make my shopping list and get some good components.
maybe start off with ok components and then when I make the external xo I can mess with some values until I find what I like and then get the final good ones.
If the drivers screws are simple wood one without insert on the baffle, you should indeed make the effort to wire the drivers direct on the biding-posts as it a biamp and output the filter during the setuping job. It will be easier to swap parts or make a little bench with several resistors values for the tweeter. You can also measure easilier the capacitor size to try to find the oem maker.
I unscrewed the Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 and 11.1 two or three times (midbass driver), when I played with the crossover, but they have metal inserts M5. If they go to the box directly, it must not be done many times.
Buy a high sensitivity half inch tweeter, put a 1uF to 2uF 2uF capacitors on it and fire it to the back, or top... It will add more sparkle. And airiness.... you can look up on rear firing tweeter. Used in many commercial units.
It also mimics the sound field of a real instrument...
I used a visaton SC5 because of the high sensitivity.
It also mimics the sound field of a real instrument...
I used a visaton SC5 because of the high sensitivity.
Ugh I think I got Allen’s cold from PMing with him.
lol.
gonna take a nap and hopefully take out the xo and measure once again.
lol.
gonna take a nap and hopefully take out the xo and measure once again.
I neglected to mention that they are also called ambience tweeters. They can be implemented in a separate module, not necessarily something that need to be build into the speaker. Ideally you can control the level and adjust to taste via L pad. You can also experiment in where to point. They also need not be high quality. The brain recognises it as an echo or reverb if it is delayed more than 5ms because the additional path it has to take and hence expects it to be an echo. Many recording nowadays are close mic to the person or the instruments hence it doesn't capture any ambience. But without this ambience it confuses the brain because a real sound is omnidirectional and creates a lot of echoes in a room. Has been used in for example Sonus Faber Adia and Wilson audio. The sound to me generally sounds bigger with a wider soundstage. Here is a link to it. If you Google ambience tweeter you can find more reading material. Easy to implement just to try it. Needs only a capacitor and a tweeter, point it backwards or upwards into the wall.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ambience-tweeters.59263/
https://classicalcandor.blogspot.com/2010/10/vmps-ambience-tweeter-review.html
Not necessarily. Typically a supetweeter kicks in a fairly high frequency and extends to 40kHz or more. Typically small diameter for maximum dispersion. Usually used on the front. Ambience tweeter points to the back or top and spreads the treble everywhere. It can be made from ordinary tweeter.